Has anyone ever removed the throttle body of a 4.0L YJ and replaced it with a Weber Carb? What spacer did you use? Will the intake manifold from a 4.2L CJ fit?
That is a home brew adaptor to put a carb on a 99 n up intake.
It is made from phenolic, a composit material that is tough and not a conductor of heat.
If you go to my gallery you will see a series of pics that pretty much walk you through how I made it all work.
after making the adapter did you just hammer out a manifold and carb base gasket from sheet gasket material. this swap looks rather simple. in northern NY wear we are most of the used fuel injected cars and trucks suffer from crusty wires and controls because of the large quantity of salt that is spread on the roads in winter. I know some will say wash the car more but when the temp is -10f for 2 - 3 weeks at a time washing the car is not a option especially if you want to get back in it before spring. This swap would put alot more jeeps back on the road around here. Carb, coil, point or electronic dist and a power / ground wire you are ready . FI is great and all but when a problem arises and i don't have my obd2 or vag com with me a test light is only going to help a little.with a carb if you have spark and fuel it will run. no feed back from the brain getting in the middle of your adventure holding you back from getting out of the woods. I would take mechanical fuel injection over electronic any day but now we are talking diesel . Electrical items are the down fall of all vehicles.Electric and water don't mix but off roading and water do. The less electronic controls you have the safer you are. When we built vws we would run a magneto distributor which required no electric at all to create spark . You could throw the battery away and still run it.i would think many guys here don't know what a mag is much less a Magneto distributor and wouldn't believe you could have spark with out 12vt from the battery. I'm not bashing any one i'm just dating my myself as a (old school-er ) . I would carb it and get back on the road
after making the adapter did you just hammer out a manifold and carb base gasket from sheet gasket material. this swap looks rather simple. in northern NY wear we are most of the used fuel injected cars and trucks suffer from crusty wires and controls because of the large quantity of salt that is spread on the roads in winter. I know some will say wash the car more but when the temp is -10f for 2 - 3 weeks ...... I'm not bashing any one i'm just dating my myself as a (old school-er ) . I would carb it and get back on the road
I'm an old-schooler myself (yes I know what a magneto is, I've ran 'em) but I do have to point out a few things. One, a carb on an EFI car is guaranteed fail at inspection in NY. (I live a bit north of Buffalo). They changed the law a while back. Two, I've been running EFI for years without the probs you describe. But I do hose the engine off once or twice during winter. It isn't gonna freeze on a hot engine. The body only gets washed in the summer. I also check all the wiring and lube the heck out of everythig in October usually.
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hey neighbor . I havent had` any issues with inspection with my trucks for my bussiness. 95 and older they dont hook to the computer around here. Ive got a f150 and a f250 with carb engines swaped into them as long as it has the shell of a cat in the exhst system they fly right through. No sniffer tubes for the inspection here. Down state and maybe up by you they might sniff the exhaust. We are in cow town. Not to stray from the thread but im a diesel guy one wire full mechanical no electric. this winteri if money allows i will build a diesel yj isuzu or some other small powerplant in it . we are woods trail jeepers diesel seems like a good way to go . if you run black diesel you will be wheeling for free.
I used black RTV between the adaptor and intake manifold. The shape of things made it nearly impossible to seal any other way.
As for the legality of what you want to do I have no idea what you can do in your area.
I maintained the cat because Jeeps try to kill you with fumes if you don't and well it is also federal law that you have one if the vehicle was built with one. (not debating if you should have one or not just pointing out facts).
TexasTrue, Ive been building a carburated 4,0 for the last few months.
I miss the days when all I needed was 50lb toolbox and I was unstoppable and could deal with just about any problem at least temporarily until I could fix it permanantly. A good carburated engine will live and die 2,3, or 4 times when a FI, computer controlled engine usually lives and dies once for economic reasons. I have a sbc that has travelled almost 1 million miles on 3 rebuilds.
The only issue I ran into was when you use a 258 intake there are some fitting issues with the 4.0 exhaust(which you will have to use) nothing terrible and easy to work through.
If you use the 99+ 4.0 intake like 4.7 stroker and I are using there are no fitting issues but you will have to modify the intake and make the carb adaptor(details are in 4.7stroker's gallery). I made an adaptor from an aluminum adaptor plate that I found under a mc2100 in a junkyard. It looks like a carb adaptor but it was only there to provide a nipple for a pcv hose or perhaps a brake booster to connect. IIRC I found it in a late 70s f100, 302, it was obviously a factory retrofit so they could use up their existing stock of intakes and carbs so they may be difficult to find.
I spent $30 to get a machine shop to mill it to fit my intake and I drilled and countersunk my carb and intake bolts myself. I used 4.7strokers design(and so did the machine shop) He should have copywrited it . All kiddin aside, Many thanks to 4.7 stroker :cheers2:
Im still not convinced which intake I will be using, the 258,the 99+ or a Clifford. I will try all of them and have bought, built and dry fitted all of them and have them ready to go. I have to also consider that I am making mine a dual fuel setup capable of running on gasoline or propane(check into it).
So far I have only dry fitted everything and have now dissasembled it all to build the 4.0 into a stroker.
paypal contributions to the beer fund are always welcome.
I am happy to see public domain is alive and well though.
As far as making an adaptor just order a block of phenolic and grab a wood working buddy. He can follow along with the pics in my gallery and make you one in a couple of hours.
paypal contributions to the beer fund are always welcome.
I am happy to see public domain is alive and well though.
As far as making an adaptor just order a block of phenolic and grab a wood working buddy. He can follow along with the pics in my gallery and make you one in a couple of hours.
For some reason people think that fuel injection is the deal until it stops working or develops a fuel delivery issue and starts suckin' fuel like a jet engine.
Lost wax is a process where you carve the desired item in wax. Then dip the wax carving in a ceramic solution and let that coating harden on the wax. The ceramic and wax is then fired in a kiln. The wax melts and runs out leaving a perfect mold of the desired part.
The mold is then used to accept the desired molten metal (aluminum, pot-metal, bronze, gold, etc) . After cooling, the ceramic shell is broken and removed from the finished product.
Yes, the wax would be easy to carve, BUT.... The resulting casting would need more than just flash removal, there is a lot involved in making a correct casting. Material flow, cooling, and shrinkage need to be accounted for. The finished casting would then need to be machined in order to create an adequate seal on the sealing surfaces which makes it much more complicated than using phenolic. Phenolic is very hard, but can be shaped using common woodworking tools and techniques. If you start with the correct thickness of phenolic, the seal surfaces are already nice and smooth ready to seal up tightly. Metal casting is outside the capabilities and tooling of most DIYers.
I'm going to suggest that if the wiring and a dead ECM are the only issues you have, you might see what jeep clubs are in your area. Someone in the club might be willing to help you resolve your issues (have beer available) and not have to go through changing to a carb. That said I have nuttered my 4.2 and changed to a Weber carb - runs great. Good luck which ever way you decide to go.
I finally received my intake and got it installed. I have the carb in place. Anybody have any good diagrams of how to run the vacuum hoses? My Chilton's manual doesn't have the best diagrams and photos, and since it was previously fuel injected, I don't really have a reference point from before. Come to think of it, a good picture under your hood may be just as good as a diagram.
The year is 2021. FI YJs are now 26-30 years old. PCM's fail more and more everyday as the stock of working replacements dwindle and prices skyrocket. Soon all that will be left are Carb YJ's towing the dead brethren from the trails...
I looked this thread up out of curiosity since I've been dealing with odd behaviour from my 95 that point to PCM, and just finished doing a PCM and Ignition Module elimination on my 87, and wished I could do the same to the 95. Really don't wanna drop $400 on a new PCM for my 95, but I've replaced every sensor, line, and component of the fuel, vacuum, ignition and engine at this point.
You could always have a Crack at cracking the PCM yourself and soldering new capacitors in place. It's been done numerous times... in the sticky threads... you'll find a thread "Crash course in brain surgery" (replacing the capacitors in your PCM).
My PCM works just fine and always has. Sorry yours potentially could be kicking the bucket, but... that's why there are resources like JF.
I actually had my XJ's go out a few months back and started to fix it, but traces and a resistor got damaged by the blown capacitor electrolyte, so it was shot. Luckily I found that one for only $80.
Still, nothing beats a simplified carb in my book. 2 wires to the HEI distributor and 1 to the carb choke.
I don't understand the hate either, and so far I haven't heard any reasons why.
What I can gather, EFI is better for extreme offroading and a tad better fuel efficiency/performance. It's newer technology, so it's makes sense.
The downside is all the extra components EFI requires.
No one can argue against the fact carbs are simpler. Simpler has drawbacks, but maintenance is easier and cheaper, and that's a huge win for a 34 year old vehicle.
Also, you won't find a doomsday'er with an EFI, lol.
This gem I just bought was in the middle of such a conversion it's an 89 2.5 though, The kid bought a webber set-up all be it for a Mazda but. Don't ask me why but it is a bolt on with a regulator and all. Seems he gave up when it came to the wiring, It's a mess. But the Webber is brand new and there's a new steering box in the back as well as a second top so it was a deal I couldn't pass up.:smile2:
This gem I just bought was in the middle of such a conversion it's an 89 2.5 though, The kid bought a webber set-up all be it for a Mazda but. Don't ask me why but it is a bolt on with a regulator and all. Seems he gave up when it came to the wiring, It's a mess. But the Webber is brand new and there's a new steering box in the back as well as a second top so it was a deal I couldn't pass up.:smile2:
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If the '89 had EFI then the regulator would be required to reduce the pressure from 30 or 40 PSI to the 4-5 PSI the carb wants.
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