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Unread 12-30-2013, 08:28 PM   #1
Gigemags05
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Ive got a transmission fluid leak on my jeep. Looks like it is coming from the pan. My question is, how hard is it to change the gasket and filter? It seems pretty straight forward but I'm not sure. Do I have to remove the skid plate? Also, while I'm doing it, are there any other seals or gaskets that should be changed? It has a brand new input shaft seal bc I just swapped in a 4.0 and put in a new one.

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Unread 12-30-2013, 08:57 PM   #2
102joe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigemags05 View Post
Ive got a transmission fluid leak on my jeep. Looks like it is coming from the pan. My question is, how hard is it to change the gasket and filter? It seems pretty straight forward but I'm not sure. Do I have to remove the skid plate? Also, while I'm doing it, are there any other seals or gaskets that should be changed? It has a brand new input shaft seal bc I just swapped in a 4.0 and put in a new one.
Can't picture it right now but I think you do need to drop the skid plate . I did it earlier this year . Just use a ratchet strap from frame rail to frame rail to hold the trans up while the skid plate is off . I had issues getting the right filter / pan gasket . So be sure they give you the right one or you'll be walking back to the parts store . It is a pretty straight forward job . Check your trans and torque arm mount while you have the Skid plate off they wear out pretty regularly. Most parts stores that carry energy suspension Polly urethane parts have a Polly urethane trans mount in stock cheaper than a OEM one . I run synthetic ATF in mine because I think it deals with the extreme heat the trans builds better . On that note a Remote trans cooler is a huge help in extending the life span of the trans .
hope this helps
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:01 PM   #3
Gigemags05
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Thanks. So just slide a ratchet strap underneath the trans and attach it to the frame rail? I never would've thought of that.

Is there a truck to draining it? Seems like fluid will get everywhere.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:10 PM   #4
102joe
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The trick is just stick your head right under pan when your ready to pull the last bolt . Because your going to get fluid all over you anyway .

The ratchet strap works best if you run it from the top side of the frame under the T case and trans over the skid plate of course .
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:15 PM   #5
Gigemags05
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Awesome thank you.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:42 PM   #6
Chrisnvegas
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All good advise except the skid plate. It's way in front of the skid plate.

Let me add: When I did mine, before I put the pan back up, I drilled a hole in the pan and welded a nut inside the pan. I added my own drain plug. Works like a charm. Now I change the ATF regularly.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:55 PM   #7
102joe
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Originally Posted by Chrisnvegas View Post
All good advise except the skid plate. It's way in front of the skid plate.

Let me add: When I did mine, before I put the pan back up, I drilled a hole in the pan and welded a nut inside the pan. I added my own drain plug. Works like a charm. Now I change the ATF regularly.
I wasn't real sure about that but , I know I had the skid plate off recently for some reason ??? Oh well .
Cant belive I dident put a drain plug in . ,,,,,, guess its comming apart again sooner than I thought .
One more thing I just remenberd . Dont be too supprised when you dont put as much fluid back in as the capacity chart says . The torque converter holds ALOT of fluid ! That you wont be able to drain out without pulling it .
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Unread 12-30-2013, 09:59 PM   #8
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I wasn't real sure about that but , I know I had the skid plate off recently for some reason ??? Oh well .
Cant belive I dident put a drain plug in . ,,,,,, guess its comming apart again sooner than I thought .
One more thing I just remenberd . Dont be too supprised when you dont put as much fluid back in as the capacity chart says . The torque converter holds ALOT of fluid ! That you wont be able to drain out without pulling it .
Don't feel bad. I can't remember squat either!

I think it's about half. I try to drain and refill every other regular oil change.

Next time you have it out, add a plug. Stupid it doesn't have one from the factory.
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Unread 12-30-2013, 10:00 PM   #9
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Speaking of that, how many qts of fluid do I use? What fluid do y'all recommend?
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Unread 12-30-2013, 10:23 PM   #10
Chrisnvegas
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Here is an old thread that will help

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...t-add-1045899/
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Unread 12-30-2013, 10:36 PM   #11
102joe
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I use Royl Purple ,,, its about $12.00 a quart . I think its worth it . Like I said the Trans gets HOT . Espicaly if you hsve bigger tires and stock gears . I am sure there are other synthetics out there cheeper . That would be fine . If your not pulling the torque converter then probably should use a synthetic blend or one that say it will mix .
My 2 Cents
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Unread 12-31-2013, 12:41 PM   #12
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I recommend a lube locker gasket. Also, if it is an original steel pan (not an aftermarket deep pan), if any of the pan bolts were ever overtightened then the pan surface is most likely not flat and it will leak again unless you check it for straightness. Put the pan upside down on a flat surface. If there are any spots that need to be flattened, take a piece of wood that fits in the channel where the bolts go and tap on it to flatten the pan bolt surface. When you install the pan, follow the torque pattern exactly (the lube locker comes with instructions).
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Unread 12-31-2013, 01:05 PM   #13
JBTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gigemags05 View Post
Ive got a transmission fluid leak on my jeep. Looks like it is coming from the pan. My question is, how hard is it to change the gasket and filter? It seems pretty straight forward but I'm not sure. Do I have to remove the skid plate? Also, while I'm doing it, are there any other seals or gaskets that should be changed? It has a brand new input shaft seal bc I just swapped in a 4.0 and put in a new one.
Do not need to remove the skid plate just use the correct tools, like this wrench.



It's a simple job and here is a write up that works on the 32RH and TF999. You should also replace all the ATF in the system. Follow these directions and the mess will be kept to a minimum.


How to completely replace the ATF in your 32RH/TF999 transmission. First it helps to have a buddy help you with this. You will also need a length of 3/8th's rubber hose and an empty milk jug marked off in 1 quart increments. First start off by disconnecting the transmission cooler line at the radiator on the driver's side. Connect one end of the 3/8th's rubber hose to the metal line and secure with a hose clamp, then stick the other end into the milk jug. Now have your buddy start the engine and place into neutral. This will begin to pump ATF into the milk jug and allow to fill up to the 3 quart mark, once it does place back into park and turn off the motor. By doing this you will be empting most of the ATF from the pan so when you go to drop the pan ATF will not spill out every where creating a mess. Now go ahead and remove the pan and replace the filter. Then clean the pan thoroughly and reinstall the pan. Next is to top off with 3 quarts of ATF+4 by pouring it down the dip stick tube. At this point your are ready to replace the ATF in the torque converter. Now have your buddy start the engine and place the transmission into neutral. The transmission will begin to pump the ATF into the milk jug and allow it to fill up to the 3 quart line. Once that has happened place the transmission back into park and dispose of the old ATF, then add 3 new quarts of ATF to the dipstick tube. Remember your transmission only pumps the ATF when it's in neutral. Repeat this process until clean ATF is being pumped into the milk jug. Should be about 9 more quarts to complete this process, but you may want to run a couple more quarts through to be sure you get all the old ATF out. Total system holds 12 quarts. When your finished disconnect the 3/8th's hose from the metal transmission cooler line and reconnect it to the radiator. Now take the JEEP out for a test drive and ensure the transmission is up to normal operating temperature and while on a flat surface and in neutral pull out the transmission dipstick and verify the fluid is at the full mark.
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Unread 12-31-2013, 01:16 PM   #14
JBTJ
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You can even go as far to add on an external filter. Now I stand up to change the transmission filter and no longer have to crawl under the JEEP and mess with the internal one. Much easier and no mess involved and takes 2 minutes to change the filter now.



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Unread 12-31-2013, 07:30 PM   #15
102joe
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Great rite up thanks , wish I saw this a long time ago
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