temp gauge and fuel gauge - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-22-2013, 12:31 PM Thread Starter
sumo1995
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temp gauge and fuel gauge

i got in my jeep today, looked down and seen my temp gauge pegged out and my fuel gauge not working. They were just working when I parked last night. I changed the sending unit to the temp gauge and it still is pegged out. Pulled the gauge cluster out and everything looked good. ??? anybody ???

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-22-2013, 12:49 PM
Siva283
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It sounds like it is shorting to ground somewhere along the temp sender wire. I think it is purple but I am colorblind so someone will need to verify that

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post #3 of 14 Old 05-22-2013, 02:32 PM Thread Starter
sumo1995
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thanks i'll look at that, probably tomorrow. weather getting a little to windy here to get under a hood.
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-22-2013, 07:53 PM
idaholtby
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Your temp gauge and fuel gauge both share the exact same ground in the instrument cluster. Given both gauges presented issues at the same time, I suggest to again pull and clean the contacts on the back of these gauges and verify the ground path for these two. By chance does the back lighting work for these? Anyway, here is a diagram for the YJ gauges that show the respective resistance values vs. gauge readings. This should help in your troubleshooting.
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post #5 of 14 Old 05-26-2013, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Took it apart again and there were some rust spots in between the contacts. Cleaned them up and now the backlight for the fuel and temperature gauge comes on, the fuel gauge goes to half and the temp gauge still pegs out but slowly now. I turned on my headlights and the fuel gauge stops working and the temp gauge pegs out immediately.
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post #6 of 14 Old 05-26-2013, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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Adding that the backlights for the instrument panel do not come on when the headlights are switched on. Getting frustrated. Electrical work sucks, not very experienced in this.
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post #7 of 14 Old 05-26-2013, 10:04 PM
idaholtby
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Originally Posted by sumo1995 View Post
Adding that the backlights for the instrument panel do not come on when the headlights are switched on. Getting frustrated. Electrical work sucks, not very experienced in this.
For the backlighting, of course ensure the dimmer switch is set properly, after that, then check fuse #10(5amp) under the dash, bottom row, leftmost fuse.
For the temp gauge, what happens when you disconnect the wire from the sender? The sender is located near the firewall on top of the head, driver's side and has a single wire attached to it. Some confuse the ECM temp sensor aka CTS on the thermostat housing with the gauge temp sender.
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-27-2013, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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When I disconnect the sending unit the temp gauge goes to 0. My backlights work on the oil and volt but not the temp and fuel. The temp pegs out when driving and when I turn my lights on it pegs immediately. The backlight for the temp and fuel is very dim with the lights off and then goes off when I turn the lights on. Very puzzling?
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post #9 of 14 Old 05-27-2013, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sumo1995 View Post
When I disconnect the sending unit the temp gauge goes to 0. My backlights work on the oil and volt but not the temp and fuel. The temp pegs out when driving and when I turn my lights on it pegs immediately. The backlight for the temp and fuel is very dim with the lights off and then goes off when I turn the lights on. Very puzzling?
O.K. then, by removing your temp sender wire and the gauge drops to Zero shows that you do not have a short in the wire at any point. However, your issues still point to a bad ground in your dash as the Fuel Gauge, Temp gauge and both of these gauges illumination all share the same ground. I would suggest to check for continuity on the ground terminal of these gauges to either chassis ground, or more simply, another gauge that does work, such as the Volt or Oil pressure gauge. I suspect your flexible circuit panel on the rear of the dash cluster has a crack at some point that is losing this ground path.
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post #10 of 14 Old 05-27-2013, 08:51 AM Thread Starter
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Ok. just have to find my volt meter to test it.Thanks will post when gone through the board.
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post #11 of 14 Old 06-14-2013, 01:50 AM Thread Starter
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well the board was bad. replaced it with a used one and now the fuel and temp gauge work but the temp gauge seems to run a little hot. about the 230 range. I think its time to get an accurate gauge. thanks for all the help everyone.
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post #12 of 14 Old 06-14-2013, 02:17 PM
idaholtby
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sumo1995 View Post
well the board was bad. replaced it with a used one and now the fuel and temp gauge work but the temp gauge seems to run a little hot. about the 230 range. I think its time to get an accurate gauge. thanks for all the help everyone.
If you have access to an IR (Infrared) gun, then point it at the thermostat housing and see if it agrees with your gauge. If you replaced your temp sender along the way, do you still have the original? If so, put it back in and see what you get.
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post #13 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
sumo1995
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Didn't have a ir gun but had a meat thernometer that did the trick. It's off by about 25 degrees.
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post #14 of 14 Old 07-10-2013, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
sumo1995
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developing another problem you might be able to help with. when it is damp out and has been sitting i have a hard time getting it started, then spits and sputters until it warms up. I have the infamous exhaust leak so could it be getting moisture causing it not to fire?
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