Tell me about your SOA conversion. - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 42 Old 02-12-2017, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
yjmike82
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Tell me about your SOA conversion.

So as part of some suspension changes I might need to make I'm considering an SOA (just early idea right now) I'm only looking for about 4" of total suspension lift, and I'd like something that would allow me to keep the factory drive shaft, at least for a while.

I'm curious about people's experience with ride quality, my Jeep is used for both a daily driver and some overland use for hunting trips, while it's important to be able to clear some technical stuff I'm more concerned about ride comfort.

Also how about steering changes, l've been reading alot of conflicting information on what is and is not needed to have the best quality of steering, so it's a stable at highway speeds.

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post #2 of 42 Old 02-12-2017, 07:28 PM
Chrisnvegas
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If you want 4" and a comfy ride, an SOA is not necessary.

4 OME 36R springs (and bushings)
1" body lift
1/2 " boom shackles.
Bilstein or Skyjacker Hydro 7000 shocks

This will net 4" to 4.5"
Soft ride, incredible flex.
Still very streetable.
Original driveshaft friendly.

I think SOA starts at 5" with pretty flat springs. SYE is pretty much a necessity.

I have the above mods and even my Lexus driving wife thinks my Jeep is comfy.

There are lots of threads on both SOA and OME.

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post #3 of 42 Old 02-12-2017, 11:02 PM
timatoe
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Having been SOA on mine with some variety of springs and axles I'll tell you what you've described above does not warrant the expense or work involved in going SOA.

If you're reading conflicting information on steering, I'll tell you right now drop pitman arms, z-bar draglinks, steep draglink angles and other booty fab ways of addressing steering are not good ways of doing things.

Read a bit through this thread.... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...-cheap-480663/


You can get a nice lift with quality components by piecing together what you need rather than looking at "kits" (this is the recipe Chris is giving you) and have a nice riding Jeep for less than half the cost of properly doing a SOA.

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post #4 of 42 Old 02-13-2017, 06:47 AM
JeeperDon
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I agree with Tim. Any SOA will be minimum of 5.5", usually over 6". You have to really want SOA for the lift height and trail performance. You also have be ready to apply your wallet and time to all the other aspects of the rig you need to address (drivelines, steering, axle wrap, etc).

SOA is not a, 'pick a catalog item and click Buy' choice.

'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(WarnHubs), 4.88s, 35" BFG KM2s, AX15, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000.
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post #5 of 42 Old 02-13-2017, 09:42 AM
slowlowford
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I also agree with everyone above. My SOA went well. When I completed mine I was building my new frame, so all the suspension was being rebuilt at the same time. My original SOA used the factory springs, axle wrap was my biggest issue. If you don't have the fab equipment or time, I would highly recommend keeping it an SUA. There are plenty of builds on here the will give you what you want without lots of downtime and costs.

I have seen people complete SOA and not change bushings, use decent shocks, or the biggest problem not getting there caster correct. Add these things to the bad steering angles that you will get, the jeep will feel like a death trap on the highway.

4bt,NV4500,NP205 Twin,Soa,8.8, 4.88's locked front and rear
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post #6 of 42 Old 02-13-2017, 10:39 AM
Randonexplosion
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There are ways of keeping it lower but is it worth all of that work to you? I had about $700 into my front SOA alone. M.O.R.E. steering bracket, new drag link, shocks, shock hoops/tabs etc.


I was able to keep it at around 4-4.5" of lift and it rides/flexes great but it wasn't easy or cheap.
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post #7 of 42 Old 02-13-2017, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
yjmike82
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Thanks for all the input, it seems like it's not likely something that will benefit my circumstances, I appreciate all the suggestions.
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post #8 of 42 Old 02-13-2017, 10:18 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Sorry but any lift, you are going to have to get a SYE and new drive shaft.
Yea you are going to hear people telling you some thing else. Sorry not going to happen.
Eventually you are going to have to bite the bullet and do it.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #9 of 42 Old 02-15-2017, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
yjmike82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
Sorry but any lift, you are going to have to get a SYE and new drive shaft.
Yea you are going to hear people telling you some thing else. Sorry not going to happen.
Eventually you are going to have to bite the bullet and do it.
I have to disagree there, I have 3.5" and a 1" transfer case drop. In 3 years I have broken 1 U joint, and it was there since the prior owner so who knows how long it was on there. The new ones have no sign of wear after 2 years.

I'd prefer the SYE, but to say it's necessary isn't the case.
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post #10 of 42 Old 02-15-2017, 09:26 AM
owtcast
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I'm impressed by the honest and solid advice from all whom responded. Typically, a SOA thread is chocked full of claims sounding like, "Nah, some $30 spring perches and a case of beer are all you need.... I'll weld 'em up fer ya too." Everything mentioned above are things that would need serious attention with a SOA. As for the stock driveshaft being used, you can get by with it for a while. But with the increased cycling distance caused by lifting the suspension, the slip yoke wears out seals much faster. You'll tire of changing them and eventually wish you had done a slip yoke elimination.
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post #11 of 42 Old 02-15-2017, 12:07 PM
fishadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS
?...Yea you are going to hear people telling you some thing else. Sorry: Eventually you are going to have to bite the bullet and do it.
The way I see it is why lift the heep if all you're going to do is lower the drivetrain? Appearance only lift? SYE isn't that costly if your lifting to fit 35s for example.

How many old threads actually convince *you* to read all 36 pages? http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/length-envy-build-thread-629700/
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post #12 of 42 Old 02-15-2017, 12:58 PM
ssyj94
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Here's my 2 cents having gone through many sua configurations and soa rear. While having buddies that went straight to soa.


A soa will ride better since the springs have less arch while that doesn't mean all sua lifts ride like unloaded dump truck. A lot of sua suspensions ride well for fireroads and what the average jeeper is willing todo with their jeep. Once you cross the line of 35's and a desire todo harder trails the sua quickly shows all its short comings. Such as dragging springs/ubolts over everything and lacking wheel travel.


Soa is more expensive because you'll need to correct your steering(crossover kit like MORE) the correct way no booty fab Z link draglinks or other bandaids. Also you'll need a traction bar and god forbid weld things on while using a tape measure. You can easily get it to 4" of lift by frenching the spring hangers into the frame and using aftermarket shackle hangers(more welding).


Using a stock style driveshaft is pushing your luck at 3.5"-4" lift regardless of suspension type. Also one guys 4" lift is not the same as the others since there are many variables in play. Sure a bandaid Tcase lowering will help a bit but now your 4" kit is a 3" kit. SYE is easy todo.


Im over the build it in stages mentality having seen all the wasted money from using different parts. Save up and build it how you want it. If the goal is 35's with a "maybe 37's one day attitude" go straight to soa. Use quality parts no matter what you do hydro shocks are junk compared to a montubes and don't buy RC lol.
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post #13 of 42 Old 02-15-2017, 01:02 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yjmike82 View Post
I have to disagree there, I have 3.5" and a 1" transfer case drop. In 3 years I have broken 1 U joint, and it was there since the prior owner so who knows how long it was on there. The new ones have no sign of wear after 2 years.

I'd prefer the SYE, but to say it's necessary isn't the case.
I will disagree with you.
I have lifted many Jeeps.
All eventually needed a SYE and new drive shaft. Which then needed to adjust the pinion angle.
Do it right the first time.
The money upfront may seem more but not breaking down in the middle of no where, trashing your drive shaft and the transfer case tail shaft is just not worth skimping on.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #14 of 42 Old 02-15-2017, 04:01 PM
87TPIYJ
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I can promise my SOA was not cheap, but I can do 80 mph with 1 finger on the wheel and I don't have a steering stabilizer. Although if you want cheap I'm selling my axles D30&8.8 w/ all the steering since I'm going to tons
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post #15 of 42 Old 02-15-2017, 04:30 PM
Chrisnvegas
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I still have my original driveshaft.
Yes, I have replaced the rear seal. (30 mins)
I do thousands of off road miles per year, trouble free.
My Jeep also does 100 mph without a stabilizer.

Yep, eventually I'll get a SYE. Is a SYE better? Yep.
Can you get by fine without one? Yep.
Can you get a good ride and flex from SUA? Yep, if you use the right parts.
That's the key. Use the right parts. Neither SUA or SOA will ride and flex well if you don't use the right parts.

The OP did say he wasn't doing the 4 mile all day trip to Holy Cross City. (I have in my CJ)

Some people need to do things in stages.
I say, that's great.
Have a plan and buy quality parts so you won't have to re-buy them down the road.

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