Yep I did the six inch bolt thing two Also I would up grade the rest of the bolts to grade eight as well. I think it will be like 5 bucks if you buy them from tractor supply.
DONE. Went to tractor supply today first thing with samples of all the bolts that I took out this AM.
The backer bolts where grade 4.8 metric as I found in research last night, which is below Grade 5 strength. So they went too. Upgraded them to the highest Tractor Supply sold for metric, which was 8.8, or a grade 5. The top bracket bolts to bumper were metric 12m 4.8s, and now they are retapped holes to 1/2" grade 8 bolts. The through frame bolt is now 6" 1/2 grade 8, with double washer grade 8 on either end to withstand the bending to get in the hole and the wedge application since I don't have angled shims.
The through the bottom up bolts into the stock nutserts in the rear xmember were changed out and retapped also.
When I pulled the 4.8 grade bolts, more than half were already stripped. I must have over torqued them, but being sub grade 5 doesnt help.
The fuel pump and sending unit/filter look old and I might just go new there.
The tank however...the cup is bad like the dealer told me when he dropped the tank two years ago. The cup is not even connected to the tank.
Question.....Do I need the darn cup...what happens if I run without it? Should I get a new tank!!!!????
My fuel tank guage doesnt work due to the cup trapping the sending unit. I get intermittant blips from the guage, but the dealership told me the arm and sending unit was good, just hampered. (they checked it since there was a recall on the seal and I knew I had a problem, so I let them drop the tank and diagnose for me for free)
I also have a half can or so of a pint of Chassis Coat Black left. Each item above got one coat of that.
Metal Ready - I purchased 2 quarts, and have used a half quart and brushed it on the frame using a catch can underneath for drips, and poured them back in the bottle. I have plenty. I immersed the bracket in it and also poured that back.
I can tell you that applying POR-15 works well with a cheap 1-2 inch brush and surprisingly as I found on the axle, a 1" sponge brush works good too.
You need to go to lowes or home depot and get a $25 organic vapor half face mask if you do this in a garage. I did and I am happy I did. Don't spray this stuff unless you have the expensive gear.
Stripped, sanded, cleaned the inner ports and repainted the valve cover. What a mess! Had to scrape out the ports and use three cans of carb cleaner on the stuff caked inside. My parts washer did fine for the exposed stuff.
Then we sanded and painted the oil pan, and took the new engine out of the box. She was primed and painted also.
Then we installed the JKS budget 1" MML kit. There is some grinding involved in this kit. It is not a bolt on. You have to do some bolt mods.
The long block does not have an oil filter adapter mount on it, in fact, it has a female thread, with a male thin tube over it in the oil filter area. I contacted Ernie who has my core, and he said there is an adapter there. Question is, where do I get seal O rings for it, and is there a way to get a new one if it is damaged or if I want to relocate the oil filter anyway??
OK Here is a picture of my problem. See the photo that shows the 1/4 metal tube directly above the threaded fitting I got back from Ernie today. That metal tube looks like it is folded circular and pressed in. Maybe it was from testing the engine at the shop?
What is this and should it be removed? The filter can not be placed with it there.
Last edited by hotelconucc93; 01-22-2010 at 05:01 AM..
Reason: added answer