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Unread 01-17-2010, 04:27 PM   #61
hotelconucc93
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If you guys and gals are seeing good stuff, throw me some thumbs!

More to follow. I gotta take that 6" bolt advice. I am nuts not to and mad I didn't run to tractor supply.

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Unread 01-17-2010, 06:04 PM   #62
plyguitar45
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I live right down the road from you in HP.
Ernie built my jeep up with me.

I'll have to see this thing in person!
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2.5L Red '91 YJ w/ 2.5" RC lift, 2" BL, 31" MT Baja Claws, Superwinch LP8500, RH4x4 Front Bumper, JKS Quick Disco's, Rampage Nerf Bars
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Unread 01-17-2010, 06:19 PM   #63
msprooch
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Yep I did the six inch bolt thing two Also I would up grade the rest of the bolts to grade eight as well. I think it will be like 5 bucks if you buy them from tractor supply.

Looks good.
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Unread 01-17-2010, 09:47 PM   #64
Unii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msprooch View Post
Yep I did the six inch bolt thing two Also I would up grade the rest of the bolts to grade eight as well. I think it will be like 5 bucks if you buy them from tractor supply.

Looks good.
yeah upgraded as well, with my smittybilt corner guards they didnt send any hardware so i bought all stainless bolts like 1.15 a bolt and i bought 50 hahaha
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Unread 01-18-2010, 05:36 AM   #65
hotelconucc93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plyguitar45 View Post
I'll have to see this thing in person!
Anytime!




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Unread 01-18-2010, 09:00 AM   #66
hotelconucc93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msprooch View Post
Yep I did the six inch bolt thing two Also I would up grade the rest of the bolts to grade eight as well. I think it will be like 5 bucks if you buy them from tractor supply.

Looks good.
DONE. Went to tractor supply today first thing with samples of all the bolts that I took out this AM.

The backer bolts where grade 4.8 metric as I found in research last night, which is below Grade 5 strength. So they went too. Upgraded them to the highest Tractor Supply sold for metric, which was 8.8, or a grade 5. The top bracket bolts to bumper were metric 12m 4.8s, and now they are retapped holes to 1/2" grade 8 bolts. The through frame bolt is now 6" 1/2 grade 8, with double washer grade 8 on either end to withstand the bending to get in the hole and the wedge application since I don't have angled shims.

The through the bottom up bolts into the stock nutserts in the rear xmember were changed out and retapped also.

When I pulled the 4.8 grade bolts, more than half were already stripped. I must have over torqued them, but being sub grade 5 doesnt help.
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Unread 01-18-2010, 12:00 PM   #67
hotelconucc93
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OK HELP!

I cleaned the tank up and openned it up.

The fuel pump and sending unit/filter look old and I might just go new there.

The tank however...the cup is bad like the dealer told me when he dropped the tank two years ago. The cup is not even connected to the tank.

Question.....Do I need the darn cup...what happens if I run without it? Should I get a new tank!!!!????

My fuel tank guage doesnt work due to the cup trapping the sending unit. I get intermittant blips from the guage, but the dealership told me the arm and sending unit was good, just hampered. (they checked it since there was a recall on the seal and I knew I had a problem, so I let them drop the tank and diagnose for me for free)

HELP
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Unread 01-18-2010, 01:04 PM   #68
hotelconucc93
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NVM...found another problem and already purchased the solution.
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Unread 01-18-2010, 05:56 PM   #69
hotelconucc93
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Rearranged the parts and cleaned the intake manifold in the ole' parts washer. Stinks in here now.

Wire brush and solvent FTW.
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Unread 01-18-2010, 09:06 PM   #70
dallass
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i am looking to redo me frame as well how much por 15 did you use?
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Unread 01-19-2010, 05:15 AM   #71
hotelconucc93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dallass View Post
i am looking to redo me frame as well how much por 15 did you use?
Great question. This post was on my mind through the whole process to recap.

I have a quart can of POR15 in the garage fridge. It is maybe 1/3 filled so I have used 2/3 thus far on the following items:

Frame - 2 Coats
D30 axle - 2 Coats
Emissions Charcoal Canister Brace - 2 Coats

I also have a half can or so of a pint of Chassis Coat Black left. Each item above got one coat of that.

Metal Ready - I purchased 2 quarts, and have used a half quart and brushed it on the frame using a catch can underneath for drips, and poured them back in the bottle. I have plenty. I immersed the bracket in it and also poured that back.

I can tell you that applying POR-15 works well with a cheap 1-2 inch brush and surprisingly as I found on the axle, a 1" sponge brush works good too.

You need to go to lowes or home depot and get a $25 organic vapor half face mask if you do this in a garage. I did and I am happy I did. Don't spray this stuff unless you have the expensive gear.

Hope this helps.
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Unread 01-19-2010, 03:18 PM   #72
hotelconucc93
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Today we did alot of work.

Stripped, sanded, cleaned the inner ports and repainted the valve cover. What a mess! Had to scrape out the ports and use three cans of carb cleaner on the stuff caked inside. My parts washer did fine for the exposed stuff.

Then we sanded and painted the oil pan, and took the new engine out of the box. She was primed and painted also.



Then we installed the JKS budget 1" MML kit. There is some grinding involved in this kit. It is not a bolt on. You have to do some bolt mods.

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Unread 01-19-2010, 06:14 PM   #73
hotelconucc93
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Question.

The long block does not have an oil filter adapter mount on it, in fact, it has a female thread, with a male thin tube over it in the oil filter area. I contacted Ernie who has my core, and he said there is an adapter there. Question is, where do I get seal O rings for it, and is there a way to get a new one if it is damaged or if I want to relocate the oil filter anyway??

Help appreciated.

Chet

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Unread 01-20-2010, 08:35 AM   #74
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************** NOTE ********* This question was answered in the following thread linked here___>>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/w...engine-953055/




OK Here is a picture of my problem. See the photo that shows the 1/4 metal tube directly above the threaded fitting I got back from Ernie today. That metal tube looks like it is folded circular and pressed in. Maybe it was from testing the engine at the shop?

What is this and should it be removed? The filter can not be placed with it there.



Thanks,

Chet

Last edited by hotelconucc93; 01-22-2010 at 05:01 AM.. Reason: added answer
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Unread 01-20-2010, 08:39 AM   #75
hotelconucc93
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For those of you that have lost valve cover bolts, and can't find one or two of them.

Be advised, they are 1/4" 20 thread. Use grade 5, available at NAPA.


Chet
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