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Unread 01-14-2010, 06:20 PM   #46
hotelconucc93
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OK. Here is today's lesson kids. The Daystar 0" lift greasable shakles are listed as front and rear assemblies. As such, you order either FRONT or REAR kits. I'll post the model numbers also. Greasable Front Super Shackles by Daystar - Part # DAYKJ61015BK and Greasable Rear Super Shackles by Daystar - Part # DAYKJ61016BK.

When you get them, they are identical. I wrote customer and tech at Daystar and they told me they use different part numbers for sales tracking. So, lesson one concludes with that point. They are identical and don't worry.

The instructions say tighten but don't overtighten the nuts. In a world of torque, what does that mean? Well, I pulled out my trusty chart, read through it, and two beers later I found the thread below my chart. It is the answer to your Daystar shackle questions...but first...my chart...this is how I roll....




and now...lesson two...shackle torque or no torque answer...((Daystar comes with rubber lock nuts..))


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ho...-bolts-890486/



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Unread 01-14-2010, 07:44 PM   #47
ctm
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Add a block to your flow chart right after jeepforum: "If search containes answer from JeepHammer go directly to Fix Jeep"
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Unread 01-14-2010, 08:33 PM   #48
hotelconucc93
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LOL ya. I concur.
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Unread 01-14-2010, 08:56 PM   #49
Gobi_Gred
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nice biuld man. I have one suggestion. Instead of fighting those nustserts in the frame I cut some 4" long lengths of 1/2" allthread and threaded them into the nutserts. I welded them to frame, but you dont have to.

This puts the nuts on the bottom:



Keep your head up on this build bro. Mine made me want to burn down my shop several times. But we're here for ya!
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Unread 01-15-2010, 05:47 AM   #50
hotelconucc93
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Dizasta,

Cool idea on the nutserts. I like that. I'll keep you posted for sure.
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Unread 01-15-2010, 07:47 PM   #51
hotelconucc93
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OK. Here are the latest pics.

I am concerned however about the shackles. I assume, being an engineer that I am right, but not convinced. I think they should look like this at this point since the springs are not under any real load and once built up more they will look more perpendicular to the ground. I hope I am right? Am I? The 8.8 is loose and will get dressed up after setting the pinion and MIGing the spring mounts.






Look what Daddy took home today!



Atlas and a NV3550 snuggled in cushioning.

Chet
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Unread 01-15-2010, 08:42 PM   #52
postaldave
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that's called jeep porn.


Quote:
Originally Posted by hotelconucc93 View Post

Look what Daddy took home today!



Atlas and a NV3550 snuggled in cushioning.

Chet
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Unread 01-15-2010, 08:48 PM   #53
hotelconucc93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by postaldave View Post
that's called jeep porn.
Atlas Bukakie
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Unread 01-15-2010, 08:51 PM   #54
ratmonkey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NebraskaDizasta View Post
nice biuld man. I have one suggestion. Instead of fighting those nustserts in the frame I cut some 4" long lengths of 1/2" allthread and threaded them into the nutserts. I welded them to frame, but you dont have to.

This puts the nuts on the bottom:



Keep your head up on this build bro. Mine made me want to burn down my shop several times. But we're here for ya!
i would suggest real bolts instead of allthread, allthread is less than grade 5 strength.
__________________
'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.

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Unread 01-15-2010, 09:14 PM   #55
msprooch
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Looks awesome...This is a tag.
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Unread 01-17-2010, 02:51 PM   #56
hotelconucc93
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OK... Lot of progress in recent days and a word on the Smittybilt Classic Rock Crawler Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier...if you care.

Here is the latest look at what has gone on before we tackle the bumper issue.



Front axle torqued, new hub additions, shocks, and brakes reattached.



I'm holding out on the tie rod until the engine is mounted to make moving the tires around during the engine hoist maneuvers.

Now, for the bumper. Overall photo side profile.



This shot above shows the bumper, and you can see the attaching support bracket running the top of the last foot of frame.

Here's that bracket front to rear, and you can see the backing plates through the rear crossmember to the bumper.



You will NEVER get these backing plates on with the fuel tank installed. Never. Dremel action was needed for the holes to make them match up better. Goes through the existing rear xmember holes, but in a few spots it was tight. There are four backer plates in the install. They attach to the bumperette holes.



Moving on, we talk more about that bracket on the frame top. This is a *****. Plain language folks. The instructions say to place the bolt through the top of the bracket, into the frame and put a washer and a nut IN the bottom of the frame and attach it to the bolt and tighten. They suggest you tape the nut and washer to a wrench to make install easier, and so you dont loose your washer and nut to oblivion in the frame. My hand shows where they want you to install the nut and washer to meet the bolt and the next photo shows the hole in the bottom of the frame's size ( and the bolt in place ).





A wrench does not fit in the hole, and a socket (3/4) does not fit in the hole. A pair of vice grips, even needle nose grips, do not fit all the way to the top to grab the nut.

What did I do? I put a washer on the bolt, and worked it in kittycorner from the top and held it and then placed the bracket on with an assistant so I didn't drop the bolt which I was holding by the threads, and installed the washer and lock nut. See nut on the top of the bracket here.



Smittybilt is SMOKING CRACK if you are to put a wrench in the bottom and magically balance a nut and washer. I almost got it to work with a magnetic wand, but no way to thread the bolt. Put the bolt in from the top with a washer sideways and when it is in make sure it spans the hole adequately and do what I did.

To tighten, do the best you can with a pry bar from tho bottom holding the head of the bolt and use a 3/4 socket on the nut on the top. I will tack weld the nut to the bolt when I break out the welder next time. I just can't tighten it any more, and it is not spinning and is fairly tight now. Use an assistant and throw away the smittybilt instructions and use common sense.

Secondly, if you are not installing this with the body and fuel tank off, good luck.

Last edited by hotelconucc93; 02-16-2010 at 08:15 PM..
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Unread 01-17-2010, 03:12 PM   #57
Unii
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotelconucc93 View Post
OK... Lot of progress in recent days and a word on the Smittybilt Classic Rock Crawler Rear Bumper with Tire Carrier...if you care.

Here is the latest look at what has gone on before we tackle the bumper issue.



Front axle torqued, new hub additions, shocks, and brakes reattached.



I'm holding out on the tie rod until the engine is mounted to make moving the tires around during the engine hoist maneuvers.

Now, for the bumper. Overall photo side profile.



This shot above shows the bumper, and you can see the attaching support bracket running the top of the last foot of frame.

Here's that bracket front to rear, and you can see the backing plates through the rear crossmember to the bumper.



You will NEVER get these backing plates on with the fuel tank installed. Never. Dremel action was needed for the holes to make them match up better. Goes through the existing rear xmember holes, but in a few spots it was tight. There are four backer plates in the install. They attach to the bumperette holes.



Moving on, we talk more about that bracket on the frame top. This is a *****. Plain language folks. The instructions say to place the bolt through the top of the bracket, into the frame and put a washer and a nut IN the bottom of the frame and attach it to the bolt and tighten. They suggest you tape the nut and washer to a wrench to make install easier, and so you dont loose your washer and nut to oblivion in the frame. My hand shows where they want you to install the nut and washer to meet the bolt and the next photo shows the hole in the bottom of the frame's size ( and the bolt in place ).



A wrench does not fit in the hole, and a socket (3/4) does not fit in the hole. A pair of vice grips, even needle nose grips, do not fit all the way to the top to grab the nut.

What did I do? I put a washer on the bolt, and worked it in kittycorner from the top and held it and then placed the bracket on with an assistant so I didn't drop the bolt which I was holding by the threads, and installed the washer and lock nut. See nut on the top of the bracket here.



Smittybilt is SMOKING CRACK if you are to put a wrench in the bottom and magically balance a nut and washer. I almost got it to work with a magnetic wand, but no way to thread the bolt. Put the bolt in from the top with a washer sideways and when it is in make sure it spans the hole adequately and do what I did.

To tighten, do the best you can with a pry bar from tho bottom holding the head of the bolt and use a 3/4 socket on the nut on the top. I will tack weld the nut to the bolt when I break out the welder next time. I just can't tighten it any more, and it is not spinning and is fairly tight now. Use an assistant and throw away the smittybilt instructions and use common sense.

Secondly, if you are not installing this with the body and fuel tank off, good luck.


haha i know exactly what you saying, i went out and bought 2 six inch grade 8 bolts and ran them all the way through the frame
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Unread 01-17-2010, 04:35 PM   #58
postaldave
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really love this build. quality work!

could you do a close up of your shock mounts and other mods on the 8.8?
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Unread 01-17-2010, 05:13 PM   #59
hotelconucc93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uni View Post
haha i know exactly what you saying, i went out and bought 2 six inch grade 8 bolts and ran them all the way through the frame
DUDE...that's even better. I might just take mine off and do the same. DOH!!!!!!! I can just grind the nut off...it will be easier!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Hey Dave...I will for sure. I have it hung there, not torqued up. I am awaiting more weight on it and to have the xfer case in so I can get a pinion angle before tacking, taking it off, welding and painting.

Chet
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Unread 01-17-2010, 05:18 PM   #60
liveanadventure
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ratmonkey View Post
i would suggest real bolts instead of allthread, allthread is less than grade 5 strength.
another idea is ,, i drilled 1 inch holes in the frame and welded 5/8 hardened nuts in and then through bolted it
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