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Unread 05-17-2010, 02:00 PM   #211
hotelconucc93
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Massive update. Today I used a tube in a bottle of oil and checked as I got near TDC where compression ended and where suction begain. I ran the tube to cyl 1 plug hole. I then split the difference between the two and verified the 0 on the timing cover as my best bet for true TDC.

Then I reset the distributor. I erased the mark for post 1, and set the mark completely to the LEFT of post one. Then I set the rotor so the trailing edge was on the mark....not at post one, but clear of it.

The sucker turned right over fast and ran smooth.


ITS ALIVE. The books (chilton, haynes, FSM) all say index post one but show unclear diagrams. MARK AFTER POST ONE AND SET AWAY FROM POST ONE.

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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/
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Unread 05-17-2010, 07:08 PM   #212
mazyj
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Great Job!

This is exactly what i plan on doing with my '91, I will be picking up a new frame w/ 4.10 axles and a 8.8 soon, and my plan is almost identical to what your doing here. Its good to see with a good amount of patience and planning you can get great results and a sick jeep.
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91 wrangler 4.0L, 4 in Suspension lift, 1 inch Shackle Lift, 1 inch Body Lift, 35" BFG Mud Terrains, Warn Rockcrawler Front Bumper, Hand Throttle, HiLift, 12 pack of Natty Boh.
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Unread 05-20-2010, 05:43 PM   #213
hotelconucc93
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Took apart the rear seat. 20 years of abuse and dirt were removed from the seat covers with MEK and I painted them with Duplicolor vynil paint. Took the cushions and cleaned the metal end clips and painted black. See them on the JK's tires?





Also stripped roll cage to bare metal, put some por-15 on the feet and primed and painted with duplicolor enamel gloss black.

Added a Tuffy lock box to the engine compartment. They say no drill required for YJ. Well..true..but only if you throw away their hardware and use 1/4 - 20 grade 8's. If you use their hardware...you have to drill. Sorry Tuffy...you screwed up. I used 1/4-20s.



She's getting closer



Ancient secret for finding TRUE TDC...sense compression, mark HB. Sense suction, mark HB. Use dead center of marks....set timing....vroooom.

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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/
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Unread 05-20-2010, 09:51 PM   #214
johnboy68
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Was it hard getting the rear seat apart? I really need to do the same to mine.

Also, I need to get some new pictures up. I'm about a week ahead of you on my rebuild. I got my hood and tailgate on now. All I have to do is finish putting the doors together and install the new soft top and tidy up a few loose ends and I'll be ready for Memorial Day Weekend!
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Skip a kit like you skipped other things. Don't be a dork.




Last edited by johnboy68; 05-21-2010 at 04:49 AM..
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Unread 05-21-2010, 04:36 AM   #215
hotelconucc93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnboy68 View Post
Was it hard getting the rear seat apart? I really need to do the same to mine.

Also, I need to get some new pictures up. I'm about a week ahead of you on my rebuild. I got my hood and tailgate on now. I'll I have to do is finish putting the doors together and install the new soft top and tidy up a few loose ends and I'll be ready for Memorial Day Weekend!
HEY! Good for you! I hope you do get it in time! Wait a minute! Truth in advertising please! You started your build a year before me! Your thread is a blast too. Keep it up.

The seat was simple to take apart. 2 hinge torx bolts, 2 cotter pins, 4 bolts to bed, 3 dowels, and then two zippers. Only trick is to keep seperating the velcro lining inside the "bag" while seperating from foam & frame.

Paint first coats while off. Then sand frame exposed metal and paint. Putting vynil on inside out and rolling it on like a condom works best for the larger seat. Stretch pull and swear works for the seat back. Durng refit the seats will loose some paint during the stretch game. Wire brush flakes lightly. Put seats somewhere aside where you can final coat and forget them while they dry. Did that last night. Today is reassembly of whole unit & install.

I gotta tell ya...two cans of paint is alot cheaper than a new rear seat cover.



Also, last night I got the Jeep Ebrake lines modified and fit the 8.8. Simple but time consuming.
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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/

Last edited by hotelconucc93; 05-21-2010 at 08:14 AM..
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Unread 05-21-2010, 06:03 AM   #216
sloan74
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Great build. I love the red/orange/black.
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Unread 05-21-2010, 06:55 AM   #217
johnboy68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotelconucc93 View Post
Wait a minute! Truth in advertising please! You started your build a year before me!
Outside build... rain in the summer slowed me down and had to tarp it over the winter. Also, building at my in-laws (about a mile away) makes it hard to just go turn a few wrenches when I have a moment. I am a little OCD and a perfectionist (as far as my budget will allow) so that can slow a man down as well.

Thanks for the tips on the rear seat. I used the fabric/vinyl paint on my roll bar pads. It works great. My rear seat is fabric so it might be a little different than yours but should be similar. It's been in my basement for over a year. I'll have to take a look at it.

Keep it up!
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Skip a kit like you skipped other things. Don't be a dork.



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Unread 05-21-2010, 08:50 AM   #218
hotelconucc93
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I decided to tackle the 8.8 rear brake line. Progress so far?

How do you secure the hose to the axle was my first concern. Lots of online DIY sites mention Currie or other brake kits that cost about $45 plus shipping. I went to Advance Auto and got two explorer right rear hoses. YES. Two right rear. Left hose has a T on it that I didn't need since my Procomp kit already had one.

Here is the hose bag. Total cost was about $34.



So how do you get this hose clipped to the axle without the currie kit?

Note the clip overall, and the tab and bolt hole. You need a mount that holds the tab and is boltable. Hard? No.



Before tossing the 8.8 old lines I found that the stock clips are the same..of course! Grind the tab and remove with screwdriver to pry them apart. Used bench grinder to file rivit center down.



Now you have these. If you grind off the MALE tab near the hole on these, then you have a clip the replacement hole and tab can mate with.



Weld and go.







next apply paint.

Then weld stud to axle for Tee and your ready to bend and fit the hard line. NEXT post.



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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/
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Unread 05-21-2010, 05:33 PM   #219
hotelconucc93
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Had a decent afternoon. Got the roll cage on and reassembled rear seat and installed.





Then I attacked the shock mount that I broke during reassembly...myfault....

I took a 1/2 inch bolt, cut it and rounded the shank to allow plug welding to the base metal of the mount. The mount was fine, just a few threads into the bolt portion broke off, so I figured leave the mount for now, until I break it again, and then I might grind it off and drill it.

Believe it or not, I welded it on all sides. It took near an hour of twisted contorsions, swearing, etc.



After the shock slid over it I added a few 1/2 washers for the melted thread area, and added a 1/2" Locknut, to avoid overtorque and snappage. Might break..might not.

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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/
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Unread 05-26-2010, 05:51 PM   #220
hotelconucc93
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Brake system after leak control is operational.

Someone had asked if I had brake warning lights come on with the Ford master cylinder.

No light warnings. Stops hard and on a dime...

Now to put it all back together and get her in the paint booth!!!!!
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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/
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Unread 05-26-2010, 06:16 PM   #221
clush
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Nice build thread. Where is Chesterfield? East or West. Sometimes I go to SE KY, which borders VA. Harlan, Letcher Counties.
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Unread 05-26-2010, 07:17 PM   #222
hotelconucc93
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20 min sw of Richmond!!!
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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/
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Unread 05-26-2010, 08:06 PM   #223
general
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hotelconucc93 View Post
Thanks Fastone.

Have you made any progress on your 8.8 yet?

I have to do some more reading and figure out what to do with the lines etc. I have seen some people get stripped 8.8's and look for breathers, etc. I plan on cleaning her up and applying paint.

As far as the progress, well, today was more tool finding and organizing and using the garage to fix my daughter hair straightener and broken wood drawer to her cabinet....pfft....

Wife stayed home to work out of the house today and various people popped over that I have not seen in a year so stay tuned...First thing will be taking parts off and applying the PB Blaster.


BREAK------------

Does anyone here have a transfer lowering kit? Does it look like an inch of metal tubing BELOW the level of the frame just above the stock transmission cross member?
See square tube above Xmember....



Chet
go down to home depot and grab galv. pipe, cut it at 1' sect, buy longer hardawre. I dont think I would weld it like the picture, ****ty clearance issues. save up for a SYE way better in the long run
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Unread 05-26-2010, 08:07 PM   #224
general
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heres the pic
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Unread 05-27-2010, 05:13 AM   #225
hotelconucc93
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Ummmm.....why would I want to do this?

I think I am going to avoid both and SYE and TC drop altogether in my build. Might be a popular mod, but I think for me it would be more of a bad idea and trouble.


HOWEVER...I love your TC drop mod.
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Axles and bolts and springs....Oh My!

My Build Thread --->>> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...ilding-869713/

Not my write up, but now one of my jeeps losing a BA and gaining an AX-> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/y...ite-up-312203/
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