I am going to do a rebuild of my 91 4.0 I6. I spent some time overseas dreaming of this project, and researching.
New Corbeau seats and harnesses <-------edit...went for Rugged Ridge not Corbeau, except for harnesses
New steering wheel (Ebay purchased in past week - really an OLD wheel but in complete leather wrap and WITH a horm button, unlike what I already have) <----------installed after painting with Duplicolor Gloss Black Vynil Paint.
Herculiner <------ done
Speaker repair (dash speakers are mildew ridden and cracking) <-------Done...OEM replacement grade.
Roll bar cleanup/cover <-----done
Interior door trim repairs <done
Pull tub, clean firewall and undercarriage and repair as needed, POR-15 <----------Done, por15, Truck Bed Liner, Chassis Coat Black Paint and Rustoleum Gloss Black as required.
Fender flares for 33" tires <-------Xenon Flat Fender Flares purchased
Dent repairs to right rear where tire carrier has pushed in corner panel, and new tire carrier for 33" tire.
Currently have 4 in Spring lift, adding 1" body for tranny work <-------- New RC springs added, 1" Daystar BL and 1" JKS MM added.
Fresh paint and some diamond plating for accent.
Nice hinge work, and repaired hard doors. <---done
R&R AX-15 with NV3550 (current AX-15 has synchro issues) <-------Done
R&R NP231J that has no SYE with Atlas 2 Speed 3.8:1 <------Done, and shifter tunnel cut and new plate welded.
CV driveshaft rear
Reman I6 242 purchased from Hiperformer engines <-------Installed
Add Ford 8.8 4.10 from 99 Exploder <-------Installed
Already mentioned 1" body lift, but also going through old lift and maybe fixing shackles, bushings etc. <----added Daystar 0" greasable shackles, front and rear. All bushings replaced. Sway bar added discos.
Clean frame, add POR 15 <-------phew...done
Checking crossmember holes to see if repair needed due to stripping ( only have five bolts in, wonder if previous owner stripped the inserts ). I have found old thread on another board with how to repair and drawings of insert replacements to take to a machine shop if needed. <-------got nutserts from Jeep...rewelded installed DONE
Evaluate the current springs. <------replaced.
Replace fuel tank skid. <--------replaced.
Check interior of tank for sending unit float malfunction. < New tank and sending unit/pump added.
Now....that being said.....step ONE....clean all the junk out of the garage...figure out WHERE the kids put all your tools over the last year, recover what the neighbors took...and PAINT THE FLOOR
Guess what I got today for a smoking deal of $250.00? A Ford 8.8 with 4.10 Limited Slip with full kit on it. I had a mechanic that I know look at it on the trailer before I offloaded it and he was amazed I got it with breather, lines, good rotors, clean brakes, etc.
Remember this photo from an earlier thread? Here is the victim...
I have a hard top forit also, and that will be fixed next.
The soft top has a zipper issue that needs to be fixed, perhaps I will take somewhere to fix it rather than buy a new one. I do have to fix the windshield steel to hold the screws better...I think I can get some inserts for the screw bases and sink them in the window frame to eliminate tear out.
Anyway...thats where it sits.
Last edited by hotelconucc93; 06-28-2010 at 07:03 PM..
I have only got my ford 8.8 sandblasted, brackets removed, and brakes taken apart to paint. i am in the process of taking the diff cover off and checking the gears. I also need to order 410 gears to match the front. I made some anti wrap leaf spring perches too.
'88 yj wrangler 2.5L /w 3.5 black diamond suspension lift, 2" body lift, 1 1/4" shackles, detroit gearless front locker, lockright in rear, posi-lok, traction bars off, no sway, 35x12.50x15 baja claws on homemade beadlocks, 4.10 gears protected by homemade diff covers, TFI, herculined, 8000lb winch, GenRight Bumbers, BrownDog 1''MML, JB SYE, flowmaster, custom YJ dash, kicker 4" front speakers, sony explode cd player, rocker panel guards, custom SS red brake lines.
I have had severe problems with the Torx for the roll cage. I read every dang post I can find, and got Sears Bolt Out Impact Grade Kit, Hand Impact Driver for hammering the Torx, and I have soaked the bolts for a week in PB. I have gotten the torx from the rear of the tub, the horizontal inlaid ones on the floor roll bar mount, and I am stuck on the vertical torx screwing the the floor of the tub, as well as the seat belt anchors, both ends of the belt.
I have then moved to breaker bars and then to impact wrench. The result? Two sheared T-45 bits, and hours of wasted time. I have gotten so mad at one that I stripped the snot out of it and drilled it, taking the head off with drill, chisle, heat, and grinder.
I was also heat treating them and PB ing the bottom of the bolts.
Then it hit me, can I just take the tops of them off, and then when the tub is off gring the bottoms off and replace the bottom nut? Or should I try to drill them, make a mess, waste hours and screw up the nuts anyway?
What is the best bet...I have tried suggestions that I have found on the board but I am at my wits end and pissed off!!
Last edited by hotelconucc93; 02-14-2010 at 10:16 AM..
Yah, here they are. I am considering...considering using a ginder from underneath to break welds on the big nits that some have and spin them and almost cut the non nut versions off with the grinder all together. Broke another bit since last post...see pics...
Last edited by hotelconucc93; 02-14-2010 at 10:17 AM..
After arguing with the roll cage, victory is mine.
The bolts on the front support as I had posted were in there good. I tried hand impact, air impact, drilling, grinding, reshaping, breaker bars...you know the drill. After getting only one to cooperate I drilled the other three, and hit the base where I could with a grinder, and whacked them on the top with a hammer, yielding the following. I think that I can just bolt the bottom and reinforce the reapplication when time.
As far as the body goes, the passenger rear corner is dented badly, and has wrinkled the passenger rear wheelhouse where it brackets up. See pics. Is it easy to repair, or should I pull off the rear corner, get a new one from god knows where, and fix the wrinkle in the wheel house? It appears that the only real connection for the rear corner is a tack weld on the body lip where the hardtop or softop bolts down on, so I assume the rest holding it on is friction and putty.
As far as other things I have in question:
Why does the windshield hinge bolts on the cowl only spin? After I get the dash off will there be bolts inside?
Any one have a suggestiong for bolstering the plastic connections for the dash pad where the cracking seems to love to hide around the screws to the cowl? I was thinking thin sheetmetal over the area, but wanted your opinions and past fixes...or where to get a new dash pad....all Ebay sells is ones that people claim are cracked also.
Last edited by hotelconucc93; 02-14-2010 at 10:18 AM..
I have been researching engines all over the place, and decided on NOT replacing the engine yet, since it is not dead. I have gotten 6 new fuel injectors, and a new fuel pressure regulator and I will reseal all the leakers and ride it out. I am planning on when the engine goes dead for sure to go the V8 route, hence the axle and the NV 3550.
Thanks to Jeep Forum and no thanks at ALL to the Haynes manual I have, I was able to get the steering column out today. Gettin' my money's worth out of this forum. To those of you that read it...pay for the membership...you can search endlessly and not be told you have to wait.
there is nuts on the back side of the windshield bolts, hard to get to but possable without removing the dash.
as far as the cracked dash i used plastic epoxy.
Thanks Troy. I decided today to get all the screws out of the dash pad so that I did not stress the plastic while I am removing the metal underlay dash from the jeep. I was able to get the underlay dash off a few inches, but threw two torx back in it to hold it in place until I can get help to hold it a few inches away while I go to town unhooking the wiring harness underneath the dash.
Any one have any good proceedures they can link me for removal of the whole dash assembly from the cowl?
I have gotten the cowl stripped bare, the frame is almost bare sans engine and suspension. The engine will pop off as soon as my stand is ready.
I found it MUCH cheaper to get a new D30 with 4.10 for $200 vice buying a ring and pinion kit, and bearing and race kit, and taking the axle to my buddy who runs a shop that will charge me something...so $200 versus $500 in parts before labor was a no brainer.
Took the differential cover off the D30 and drained. It has some find silt (not metals) in there, and I attribute that the the missing breather and corroded hole that leads to it. This was a junked jeep at a yard, so I did find some GOOD oil in there, and sediment.
I heard a while ago to use brake cleaner to loosen it and then blow it out with air...rinse...and repeat...
Whoa, it looks like you are tearing apart my Jeep. I have a black '91 w/ the I6 as well. I even used to have a hard top just like that, same color. You even have the same wheels!!! I just rebuilt the motor last spring and its been running pretty good w/ just over 6,000 miles on the rebuild. I am going to check back w/ you quit a bit, good luck with it.
1991 YJ, rebuilt 4.0L in spring 2009 at 234,000 miles, no lift yet, slightly offset wheels, 235/75/15 tires for now, rag top, sold the hard top. Over 35,000 miles on the rebuild and counting.