I decided to breath some new life into my old 4.2 ignition and perform the basics of the Team Rush
mod, being a new cap. cap adapter (spacer) coil, wires and rotor. I went ahead and got new plugs as well.
Note: This is only for the 4.2 with the Motorcraft distributor
I stopped at Napa to get all the parts, but as usual they only had a few of them... that seems to be the case at auto parts stores around here. You'd think with it being the "Motor City" we'd have a better chance of getting what we want, but nooooooooo.
I did manage to get the Belden plug wires that I wanted to use from them though, as well as the new rotor.
Off to a local auto parts store called "Cass Auto Parts". I walked in and told the guy what I was doing, and he cross referenced the Napa parts to the ones they cary and came back with a box of parts. Now me being the warry type of person, I was concerned about the quality of these "premium" parts. So the guy grabbed another set, and using his pocket knife dug into the copper connectors just so we could make sure that they were in fact not just coated aluminum. Talk about customer service!
I left that store with everything else I needed.
I even got a brand new Ford e-coil from them. I had called two local salvage yards (we have no u-pull lots around here) and they wanted $45 for a used e-coil. My new one only cost $55! So obviously I went with the brand new parts, even though a used one could have saved me $10.
So to tally it up I purchased:
New plug wires:
New Ford E-Coil:
New coil connector pigtail:
Now it's time to get dirty.
I popped the hood and went to work pulling off all the wires. Before I did I wrote down where each wire went just so I wouldn't have to hop online to get the information later.
My dirty engine with all the wires removed.
Next I removed the plugs and examined them to see how things were going in the combustion chamber. (I need to lean it out a bit FYI).
Since I was using the new Ford E-Coil I gapped my new plugs to 0.045" (forty-five thou) and installed them by hand using a socket extension and spark plug socket.
Once installed by hand I grabbed my torque wrench and tightened them down to the specs listed in my manual.
Next I removed the old cap, rotor and coil.
The cap came off by removing the two screws on top of the cap holding it to the dizzy.
The bracket holding the coil on was held there by two torx bolts screwed into the block.
The rotor just lifts up, nothing to pry or screw off to remove it.
Here's some pictures of the stock components next to the new ones.
Note now much taller the new rotor and cap are compared to the stock ones.