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Brandon_YJ 07-24-2008 01:40 PM

Team Rush Mod (Writeup w/ Pics}
I decided to breath some new life into my old 4.2 ignition and perform the basics of the Team Rush mod, being a new cap. cap adapter (spacer) coil, wires and rotor. I went ahead and got new plugs as well.

Note: This is only for the 4.2 with the Motorcraft distributor

I stopped at Napa to get all the parts, but as usual they only had a few of them... that seems to be the case at auto parts stores around here. You'd think with it being the "Motor City" we'd have a better chance of getting what we want, but nooooooooo.
I did manage to get the Belden plug wires that I wanted to use from them though, as well as the new rotor.
Off to a local auto parts store called "Cass Auto Parts". I walked in and told the guy what I was doing, and he cross referenced the Napa parts to the ones they cary and came back with a box of parts. Now me being the warry type of person, I was concerned about the quality of these "premium" parts. So the guy grabbed another set, and using his pocket knife dug into the copper connectors just so we could make sure that they were in fact not just coated aluminum. Talk about customer service!
I left that store with everything else I needed.
I even got a brand new Ford e-coil from them. I had called two local salvage yards (we have no u-pull lots around here) and they wanted $45 for a used e-coil. My new one only cost $55! So obviously I went with the brand new parts, even though a used one could have saved me $10.

So to tally it up I purchased:
New plug wires:
New rotor:
New Ford E-Coil:
New coil connector pigtail:
Dizzy cap:
Cap adapter:
Champion plugs:

Now it's time to get dirty.
I popped the hood and went to work pulling off all the wires. Before I did I wrote down where each wire went just so I wouldn't have to hop online to get the information later.

My dirty engine with all the wires removed.

Next I removed the plugs and examined them to see how things were going in the combustion chamber. (I need to lean it out a bit FYI).

Since I was using the new Ford E-Coil I gapped my new plugs to 0.045" (forty-five thou) and installed them by hand using a socket extension and spark plug socket.
Once installed by hand I grabbed my torque wrench and tightened them down to the specs listed in my manual.

Next I removed the old cap, rotor and coil.
The cap came off by removing the two screws on top of the cap holding it to the dizzy.
The bracket holding the coil on was held there by two torx bolts screwed into the block.
The rotor just lifts up, nothing to pry or screw off to remove it.

Here's some pictures of the stock components next to the new ones.
Note now much taller the new rotor and cap are compared to the stock ones.

Brandon_YJ 07-24-2008 01:40 PM

Now it's time to put on the new rotor, cap spacer, and cap.
The rotor just sits back down on there, it has an index mold on the inside so that you can't screw it up, it'll only go on one way. ;)

The cap spacer will only go on one way as well. Only this time, the two screws that hold it to the dizzy are on inside of the spacer instead of being on top of the cap itself.

And the cap sits on top and is held on by two clips. Once again, there's only one way to install it so you can't mess it up.
Well, I guess you could if you tried using a BFH to make it fit. :laugh:

Now to wire in the new pigtail.
Just cut the wires from the old connector and splice the new one in.

Run the new plug wires and hook everything up and you are good to go!

Total time: about 45 minutes - and that includes having to get on my 3/yo boy for "helping" a little too much by digging a screwdriver into the tub.
Total cost: $185 for everything, including the plugs.

The biggest issue here is the mounting of the new Ford E-Coil
Right now I have my coil zip-tied to the inner fender. It's just temporary until I get to work and laser cut me a new 2-piece bracket. Once I get that done I'll take a pic or two and add it to this writeup.

havasu 07-24-2008 01:44 PM

Great write up Brandon!

bradyman1 07-24-2008 02:49 PM

Did you notice any improvement in performance over stock? Quicker starts, more power, higher revving?

Good write up!!

Brandon_YJ 07-24-2008 04:29 PM

I fired the Jeep up for about 15 seconds to see if it started and haven't been around it since, so I can't answer your questions, sorry.
Well actually, it did seem to fire up better. But of course that could have just been all in my mind.
I'll test it out later (tomorrow) and report back.

bradyman1 07-27-2008 12:58 PM

Have you had it out for a ride yet? How does it run??

Gearhead22 07-27-2008 01:58 PM

Great write up. you are reusing the stock ford distributer i presume? i think i read up on this mod a while back . you are looking to gain better firing by upsizing the distcap , therefore reducing crossfire in the cap? what adantage is that ford e coil over stock cylinder type?

Brandon_YJ 07-27-2008 04:07 PM

Sorry all for not posting here sooner. I wanted to make sure I had enough time behind the wheel before making any statements.

First off, Gearhead22 you are correct, I am using the stock Motorcraft dizzy tower. But there is more to it. Search the forum for posts made by JeepHammer regarding this mod since he is actually the guy who "invented" it many years ago. And the advantages of the ford e-coil are that is has a hotter spark and can be mounted anywhere and in any position.... to name a few.

OK, I have about 50 miles on the Jeep since the mod.
It is well worth it.
The slight stumble I had is all but a thing of the past. The motor spins better too. I used to have a miss at idle but no longer. Of course that could be due to the new plugs, but since plugs were a part of the mod... :D
I was actually able to richen my mixture due to the better spark. Still trying to work that out but my plugs have gone from being fouled to showing signs of a lean mixture.
More power? Not sure, but it's definately making use of the existing power much better now.
I was actually able to advance my timing some as well. And here is the oddball part. I have backed my idle screw completely off the linkage. You know what I'm talking about right? The screw that actually opens the butterfly and increases fuel at idle? Yeah, that one. Right now the screw is not making any contact with the linkage and it is idling at 700RPM without a hicup.

After some more tuning I'll post again.
The mod was worth the $200 just by letting me tune my carb correctly now. :thumbsup:

tippmann243 07-27-2008 04:40 PM

the coil i got came with a bracket on it.

see this thread

Brandon_YJ 07-27-2008 04:53 PM

The parts store had the bracket for sell for $19.
But I'm a fab guy and like to make stuff. ;)

tippmann243 07-27-2008 04:56 PM

i got the bracket and coil off a 80's something for for 3 bucks at the wrecking yard.

actually i got 2 coils and the bracket for 3 bucks.

Brandon_YJ 07-27-2008 05:08 PM

I could have only wished!
The local yards around here wanted almost full price for the coil.
I chocked up an extra $10 and got a new one.

tippmann243 07-27-2008 07:02 PM


Originally Posted by Brandon_YJ (Post 5501325)
I could have only wished!
The local yards around here wanted almost full price for the coil.
I chocked up an extra $10 and got a new one.

if that was the case with me i would have done the same thing.

bradyman1 09-02-2008 08:31 PM

I am under the impression that this can be done with the stock jeep coil. Is this correct? I need to get a new cap, rotor, and wires anyway so if I can keep my stock coil I won't be out any extra cash to do the upgrade. What is the advantage to the Ford coil? Thanks for the help.

tippmann243 09-02-2008 08:38 PM


Originally Posted by bradyman1 (Post 5651579)
I am under the impression that this can be done with the stock jeep coil. Is this correct? I need to get a new cap, rotor, and wires anyway so if I can keep my stock coil I won't be out any extra cash to do the upgrade. What is the advantage to the Ford coil? Thanks for the help.

you can keep the stock coil, but the ford coil has more volts or for lack of a better term a "hotter" spark

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