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Unread 12-15-2011, 05:42 PM   #16
BIGJoe29
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ok so the tc drop is on its way and im getting the seal the outer seal for the rear driveshaft, where it meets the transfer case, tomorrow. and i got the automatic transmission fluid my manual recommended, did i get the right stuff? its the castrol dex/merc, domestic multi-vehicle automatic transmission fluid engineered to extend tranny life. for older ford and domestic general motors vehicles

im going to install the tc drop, replace the seal and then top off the fluid.
is that the right order?

and im not really wat to do when it comes to removing the driveshaft, replacing the seal and putting the driveshaft back. are there torque specs to be met?

001.jpg   002.jpg  
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2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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Unread 12-15-2011, 07:31 PM   #17
Michaelgoesrawr
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Seal, fluid, then drop.

I used atf +4 in my tcase. I don't know about torque settings either. Sorry.
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Unread 12-15-2011, 07:40 PM   #18
mrmud4x4
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Go to the the first post in this thread.....Max did a good little write up.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/b...78/index2.html
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Unread 12-21-2011, 11:35 PM   #19
BIGJoe29
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ok i will have all the parts on friday and i will be hoping to start working during the weekend. will post updates and questions when needed
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2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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Unread 12-22-2011, 07:14 AM   #20
MLJeeper
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The seal is probably leaking because the bearing in the tail cone is worn.
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Any video of the sound?
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Unread 12-22-2011, 07:34 PM   #21
BIGJoe29
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i got the new bearing today from a local jeep dealership because autozone didnt carry it
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2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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Unread 12-25-2011, 01:46 AM   #22
BIGJoe29
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got the seal, bushing, tcase drop and steering stabilizer installed. also topped off the transfer case fluid. when i shift into 2nd and 4th gear my stick shifts all the way but hits the console when it is fully in. would a new console solve this(i really dont want to spend money on that)
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2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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Unread 12-25-2011, 11:32 AM   #23
MLJeeper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJoe29 View Post
when i shift into 2nd and 4th gear my stick shifts all the way but hits the console when it is fully in. would a new console solve this(i really dont want to spend money on that)
Pull shifter out, Place in vice, Apply heat from torch, Bend a little just below the area where it is contacting, replace, repeat if necessary.
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Your limited slip differential sucks.

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Any video of the sound?
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Unread 12-25-2011, 02:00 PM   #24
firesoutmatt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MLJeeper View Post
Pull shifter out, Place in vice, Apply heat from torch, Bend a little just below the area where it is contacting, replace, repeat if necessary.
Or just leave it in and apply heat and bend it where you like it.
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Unread 12-25-2011, 03:29 PM   #25
jode
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Looked at your images again...not sure, but it almost looks like there were axle shims installed with the new springs? The rear diff looks like it is pointed directly at the t-case.
Can you either clarify if you installed shims with the springs, or post up a better picture of the point where the springs sit under the axle?
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Unread 12-25-2011, 04:29 PM   #26
jojojeep1
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i used a stack of washers ,sprayed them black and called it good, its cheap and it keeps a nice opening between the frame and the skid plate so you can put a hose in there and clean it all out after muding.
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Unread 12-25-2011, 04:49 PM   #27
jode
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.
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Unread 12-25-2011, 06:57 PM   #28
BIGJoe29
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i didnt put any shims there unless my RC kit came with some, which im pretty sure it didnt. thanks for the shifter help too. i'll take another pic of the rear axle tomorrow
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2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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Unread 12-26-2011, 12:56 PM   #29
BIGJoe29
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the vibration is 90% gone so im not worried about that anymore. im going to take my track bars off because they dont let my springs articulate at all. do i just unbolt them? is there anything else to taking them off?
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2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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Unread 12-26-2011, 01:55 PM   #30
dillonjm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJoe29
the vibration is 90% gone so im not worried about that anymore. im going to take my track bars off because they dont let my springs articulate at all. do i just unbolt them? is there anything else to taking them off?
Just unbolt em.
May need to soak them in some penetrant if they are rusted up.
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