tc drop??? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
BIGJoe29
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tc drop???

so i finally got my rc 2.5 in lift on today, 17in stock JK wheels, 32in bfg at's, spidertrax wheel adapters.
i have never experienced driveshaft vibes but im sure i did on the way home, 30 mph and over. but only at low rpms and high rpms, not int he middle. and i dont know how to install a tc drop if i have to, so a walk through would be nice.

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driveshaft stuff 001.jpg   jeep and craigslist 219.jpg   driveshaft stuff 002.jpg   driveshaft stuff 004.jpg   driveshaft stuff 006.jpg  


2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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post #2 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:15 PM
Michaelgoesrawr
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Put a jack under the skid plate. Loosen bolts. Install drop. Reinsert bolts.

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post #3 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:18 PM
mrmud4x4
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Support the Belly plate with a very good lift....get some jack stands....remove the six bolts that hold it to the frame....lower it....put the spacers in....use longer bolts and bolt it back up to the frame.

Soak the bolts down for a few days with PB blaster.

May need a buddy to help out.

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post #4 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:23 PM
warthog312
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My jeep lived in Illinois for it's entire life, so I can sympathize with stubborn bolts. My recommendation is this, soak them thoroughly, and blast them with an impact gun. Mine didn't go so easily so it came down to a hot wrench and a stick welder in the end. Best of luck.

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post #5 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
BIGJoe29
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any idea wat the liquid on the bottom of the tub is? and where it came from?

2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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post #6 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:33 PM
baritone_mike
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I am not possitive but I would guess your slip yolk. It looks like it was flung from the top of the drive shaft, some times they leak after you lift the Jeep.

˙ɹǝʌo ɹǝʇndɯoɔ ɹnoʎ dılɟ sıɥʇ pɐǝɹ uɐɔ noʎ ɟı
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post #7 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:39 PM
mrmud4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baritone_mike View Post
I am not possitive but I would guess your slip yolk. It looks like it was flung from the top of the drive shaft, some times they leak after you lift the Jeep.
Replace that seal.
Disconnect the clamps on the driveshaft u-bolt at the rear differential. Wiggle the driveshaft out....and pull the driveshaft/yoke out of the transfer case to get at the seal. Will need 8mm wrench/socket for the clamp bolts.....may want to soak them a little with PB Blaster.

Have a drip pan ready when you pull it out....some oil will come out....enough to make a small mess.

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post #8 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
BIGJoe29
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if i went to buy that seal online, wat would it be called?

2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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post #9 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 06:00 PM
mrmud4x4
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It would be called a Transfer Case seal.....or transfer case rear output shaft seal. Take a good look at what you have....so when you purchase, it is the right one....they're cheap. That one is not the metal one....it has a metal outer ring with rubber in the middle that rides on the yoke shaft. The metal outer ring will probably be painted. Sometimes the outer ring is a very hard rubber.

Pull the old one out and evenly tap the new one in....evenly....until it is seated. Don't damage the seat area of the transfer case when pulling the old one.

Local auto parts:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1990-Jeep-Wrangler-4WD/Transfer-Case-Seal/_/N-igt0xZ6o2sg

here....maybe this link will work better....

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/subcategory_Transfer-Case-Parts_-49997409_-49997327_10151_10051_-1___#storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&sortBy=5&categoryId=-49997409&searchTerm=&pageId=ajaxPartList&category= &keywords=Transfer-Case-Parts&l1_categoryId=&l2_categoryId=-49997327*-49997409&partType=&facetFields=mfrName_exact%2Cpri ceBucket%2Cclearance%2Csale%2Cl2_category&beginInd ex=0&filterValue=part_type%3A%22Replacement+Parts* Transfer+Case+Parts*Output+Shaft+Seal%22%7CReplace ment+Parts*Transfer+Case+Parts*Output+Shaft+Seal&p ageSize=10&filters=part_type%3AReplacement+Parts*T ransfer+Case+Parts*Output+Shaft+Seal&selectedPartN umber=&qty=1&ship2HomeClicked=

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post #10 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 06:26 PM
mrmud4x4
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FYI.....since the lift has given you some vibration....if you replace that seal...the vibration may wobble the seal out and cause it to leak again.

Also....until you lower the belly plate...keep an eye on the rear u-bolt straps and bolts....those little 8mm ones....the vibration may cause them to loosen/break.

Ask me how I know.....lol

If you want the clearance of the belly plate being up...you can get a double cardan (CV style) driveshaft or an SYE kit or both.....that would take care of the vibration problem but it is much more expensive than lowering the belly plate.

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post #11 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
BIGJoe29
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is it strongly advised because i had already ordered the tc drop before your comment. i wuld prefer not to reorder another thing haha

2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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post #12 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
BIGJoe29
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ya thanks for all the help. i dont have to drive it so i wont be haha. not until i get the tc drop of course.

2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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post #13 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 06:35 PM
mrmud4x4
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Looking at the yoke....when you have the driveshaft/yoke out, I would put some emory cloth or scotchbrite pad to that yoke...where the rust is, to smooth it out some. When you lower the belly plate, that nasty part of the yoke will go in and ride on your new seal.

Also...check and top off the transfer case fluid...believe it is tranny fluid. Looks like it's been leaking awhile.....There is a write up on transfer case maintenance in the forum.

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post #14 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 06:39 PM
mrmud4x4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGJoe29 View Post
is it strongly advised because i had already ordered the tc drop before your comment. i wuld prefer not to reorder another thing haha
No...no big deal...just some guys want as much clearance as they can get...I did the TC drop.

Update as you fix it.....keep us posted.

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post #15 of 36 Old 12-14-2011, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
BIGJoe29
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ya thanks again guys. it'll ship in 1-2 buisness days so i will take and post pics inthe process

2.5L w/ AX-5, NP231J w/ Rugged Ridge SYE and XJ front driveshaft, open D30 and D35 w/ 4.10 ratio, stock JK 18in wheels w/ Spydertrax 1.25in spacers and 32in toyo at, 2.5in RC lift with .5in shackles(BESRK), rear TJ flares. 8.8 rebuild soon
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