I already did an alternator swap and have no power issues. That does not mean I don't care about running it as close to max as I can.
Also, no one has said they have first hand experience using the Harden controller in the actual radiator hose. My understanding is that is is a probe you can only stick in the fins of the radiator. I have seen people use probes in the hose, but do not know exactly which ones there are running. In the hose is the best way to do it, but also way more expensive, unless I fab an in line piece myself and thread it for a sensor which I dont feel like doing.
Also, the reason I ask about it turning off is that some come on when it only passes a certain temp, but do not shut off it the high fan is about to kick on. If I have two of them running I do not see why I would want power going to both the high and low at the same time, it should be one or the other. At least that is what I assume or the would use a different type of controller with only one wire for the speeds. There are controllers that will switch from low to high, and they cost double. Also, most of those are from other vehicles that have preset temp ranges in them which while they might work, I dont think they are necessarily the best or least expensive way to do this properly while maintaining full control of my temps.
Do you get it now, or has every single thing ever done to Jeeps already been covered? If thats the case lets all just dig through old threads and delete our user accounts now.
95 YJ, 2.5 AX15 conversion, 4.0 TB, SOA +1.5", 33" DC Crusher Tires, 8.8 Rear w/welded tubes + LSD, Spartan Locker HP30 Front w/solid axle swap, Rocky Road OTT kit, JKS Disconnects, AA SYE, Teraflex Shock Bar in Rear, 1/2" Boomerang Shackles, RE Add a Leafs, Homebrew Traction Bar, Monstalined in&out, LED Tail lights, 1700 Watt Stereo