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Unread 02-25-2013, 01:32 PM   #16
0verkillYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
Is that a hayden controller? You want the low speed on. It should come on between 195-200. You want it to stay on no lower then 185. The high speed depends on the controller. I have never had a need for it but you can wire the high speed up through the second relay and a switch to control it. Seriously though, I have never needed it and I don't think you will either unless you are doing desert crawls.
You know I wasnt sure about that either. I do use 4x4 Low a lot though. Sometimes it is hot as hell out and I am running 4k RPMs going 15MPH. Not sure if low will hold up to that type of abuse in the summer when it gets up into the 90's. I would just wire a switch for high, but I dont want the extra strain on my alternator unless it is actually needed since I have a winch and a lot of other things drawing a lot of power.

Also yes, that was the Hayden controller. So that does have an actual on & off range, not just an on range? But what I read is that the probe cannot go into the radiator hose, only the radiator itself.

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Unread 02-25-2013, 02:05 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by 0verkillYJ View Post
You know I wasnt sure about that either. I do use 4x4 Low a lot though. Sometimes it is hot as hell out and I am running 4k RPMs going 15MPH. Not sure if low will hold up to that type of abuse in the summer when it gets up into the 90's. I would just wire a switch for high, but I dont want the extra strain on my alternator unless it is actually needed since I have a winch and a lot of other things drawing a lot of power.

Also yes, that was the Hayden controller. So that does have an actual on & off range, not just an on range? But what I read is that the probe cannot go into the radiator hose, only the radiator itself.
If thats the case, I suggest you read posts 3 and post 11 part 1.

don't make this harder than it has to be. All the work has been done for you... Sure there are many ways to do this but you don't seem all that confident on what you are doing... No offense. The alt swap is simple too. multiple write ups on it... Good luck
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Unread 02-25-2013, 02:28 PM   #18
0verkillYJ
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I already did an alternator swap and have no power issues. That does not mean I don't care about running it as close to max as I can.

Also, no one has said they have first hand experience using the Harden controller in the actual radiator hose. My understanding is that is is a probe you can only stick in the fins of the radiator. I have seen people use probes in the hose, but do not know exactly which ones there are running. In the hose is the best way to do it, but also way more expensive, unless I fab an in line piece myself and thread it for a sensor which I dont feel like doing.

Also, the reason I ask about it turning off is that some come on when it only passes a certain temp, but do not shut off it the high fan is about to kick on. If I have two of them running I do not see why I would want power going to both the high and low at the same time, it should be one or the other. At least that is what I assume or the would use a different type of controller with only one wire for the speeds. There are controllers that will switch from low to high, and they cost double. Also, most of those are from other vehicles that have preset temp ranges in them which while they might work, I dont think they are necessarily the best or least expensive way to do this properly while maintaining full control of my temps.

Do you get it now, or has every single thing ever done to Jeeps already been covered? If thats the case lets all just dig through old threads and delete our user accounts now.
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Unread 02-25-2013, 02:57 PM   #19
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Here's a quick sketch of my diagram. This has the low side thru the controller, the high side switched directly and with a center off position. Notice I'm using the switch to control the gound side of the relays so there is virtually no current on that part of the circuit and the high power wires are all very short and centralized near the fan.

I used a radiator fin probe type controller and it has held up fine for years. When I originally installed it I made the opening a little oversize and packed it with jb weld. It holds the probe in place plus gives good thermal conduction.
fancircuit.jpg  
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Unread 02-25-2013, 04:37 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0verkillYJ View Post
I already did an alternator swap and have no power issues. That does not mean I don't care about running it as close to max as I can.

Also, no one has said they have first hand experience using the Harden controller in the actual radiator hose. My understanding is that is is a probe you can only stick in the fins of the radiator. I have seen people use probes in the hose, but do not know exactly which ones there are running. In the hose is the best way to do it, but also way more expensive, unless I fab an in line piece myself and thread it for a sensor which I dont feel like doing.

Also, the reason I ask about it turning off is that some come on when it only passes a certain temp, but do not shut off it the high fan is about to kick on. If I have two of them running I do not see why I would want power going to both the high and low at the same time, it should be one or the other. At least that is what I assume or the would use a different type of controller with only one wire for the speeds. There are controllers that will switch from low to high, and they cost double. Also, most of those are from other vehicles that have preset temp ranges in them which while they might work, I dont think they are necessarily the best or least expensive way to do this properly while maintaining full control of my temps.

Do you get it now, or has every single thing ever done to Jeeps already been covered? If thats the case lets all just dig through old threads and delete our user accounts now.

The volvo controller takes care of that. when the high temp hits it turns on the high speed and stops the low speed. If you test the taurus fan and apply power to BOTH low and high at the same time, then the fan runs slower IIRC. And at $35 from a JY, they don't "There are controllers that will switch from low to high, and they cost double." as you say...

BTW, the volvo part is just a switching relay. It has nothing to do with temp... you can put whatever probe or thermostat controller to it for your upper and lower limits and it'll turn on the correct fan spd, low or high. There is no preset ranges on it...
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Unread 02-25-2013, 04:38 PM   #21
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Bolty... your drawing? or your childs...
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Unread 02-25-2013, 05:56 PM   #22
0verkillYJ
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$35 from jy, or $60 brand new. Not a tough decision for a critical component. That is more than double buying two of the controllers from amazon at $15 each. I will have to sleep on which way I do it.
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Unread 02-25-2013, 06:08 PM   #23
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I am using the hayden. It comes setup for a 2 speed. The second is a ground switch control for the air conditioner. I chose not to wire it but it is easily switched sense it is ground switched. For water crossings I have unplugged the fuse because I havent wired the relay setup from the neon into the controller. Hayden does have schen\matics on their web site for downloading. I say you try the low speed first. Even at low speed it is rated at a higher cfm then the stock rad fan. The volvo fan setup is a good way to use a temp sensor instead of the probe setup. The problem with the probe are they are exposed to the elements and the fins around the probes do loosen and the probe stops making good contact. It isn't something that happens over night but if your use is as you describe then the setup in the other link does make more sense. If you want to use the Hayden I can walk you through it.
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Unread 02-25-2013, 06:12 PM   #24
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$30? You can get the Volvo controllers for $2 each at pick-n-pull.

Whatever though, it's your build spend your money how you want to. This project is one of those that can cost you $50 from start to finish or $300, it's all up to what you're willing to spend.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 06:18 PM   #25
0verkillYJ
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Piece of crap Hayden controller failed first time out. Guess they don't like mud and water hitting them very much. It didn't even get hit that bad.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 07:19 PM   #26
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Now maybe that thread for the temp switch in the cheap thread.
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Unread 03-03-2013, 07:22 PM   #27
0verkillYJ
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Lmao
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Unread 03-03-2013, 07:25 PM   #28
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Now maybe that thread for the temp switch in the cheap thread.
Lol, got everything I needed for my e-fan for the price of that Hayden controller I'll bet
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Unread 03-03-2013, 07:26 PM   #29
0verkillYJ
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I only spent $15 for it on amazon
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Unread 03-03-2013, 07:37 PM   #30
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I only spent $15 for it on amazon
I stand corrected... I spent maybe $60 on jy parts for my setup
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