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Savvy/Currie Aluminum Control ArmsROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO December Specials at Jeephut.com

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Unread 05-15-2013, 05:55 AM   #1
bcusstc
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Taking on the clutch

Im going to take on a clutch in the jeep within the next few weeks and i wanted to get some input on a few things before i do so.

1) Is there enough room to remove the trans without disconnecting the exhaust?

2)Im thinking about changing out the rear main while im in there, ive done the 2 piece for the 4.0 but never the 2.5. Is there anything i need to watch out for?

3) i would love to get any input on what else i should do while im in there or what i can do to make the job easier.

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Unread 05-15-2013, 06:22 AM   #2
pete1991YJ
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You will need to drop the exhaust, it will make life much easier to have it out of there anyhow. Getting at the 2 bolts on the manifold-to-pipe flange involved 18-inches of 3/8 extension with a 14mm socket. (from underneath) Use plenty of PB blaster.

If the exhaust bolts break off like mine did, the trick is to grind it flush and then use a cobalt bit to drill it out -- came out like butter.

The starter has to come out.

Make a couple of guide pins out of some 7/16 coarse thread bolts about 6" long, just chop the heads off them. These will aid getting it all lined up and back in.

The top 2 bolts on the bellhousing are a famous PITA. You can get at the passenger side one from the passenger side and a long extension again, with an 18 mm socket. Drivers side from the drivers side. Everything is much easier if you first take off the entire floor cover panel, not just the shifter boots but the whole cover.

I put a bottle jack under the oil pan and use it to let the engine down a bit, makes getting at all the bolts much easier. You don't have to jack up the jeep at all. I left the transfer case and trans together, removed them both as one unit.

Use a floor jack or a trans jack is best of all. Get a young and beefy friend to help wrestle the pigs around. Remember these are heavy even tho they are aluminum they can still ruin your day if they fall on you.

AFAIK there's nothing special about the 2.5 rear main seal, its about like any other motor you've done. It just needs to be meticulous and clean.

Hope that helps!
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Unread 05-15-2013, 11:25 AM   #3
Firefyter-Emt
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Another nice trick is to use ratchet straps (in lieu of a proper lift and tranny jack) You can use one to keep the motor in place over using a jack. This will reduce any damage and keep the jack out of the way.

Then use four straps to remove and install the transmission. (and transfer case) One strap at each end which is attached around each frame rail to make a sling. The second one is used to hold the assembly in place when the other strap is "full" and you need to release it to remove the extra strap. What is nice doing it this way, is that you can raise and lower it nice and easy, while also being able to twist it around, push in and out, and even lift up one end or the other to install the transmission back in. Give it a shot, so much better than a floor jack and safer too!

it may take a little longer to keep stopping to "unload" the straps, but so much safer, and you will love the control you have over the assembly when you are trying to line up the input shaft!
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Unread 05-15-2013, 12:14 PM   #4
EABiker
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You also may need the reverse Torx sockets to remove the upper two bellhousing bolts unless they have already been swapped out.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 01:50 PM   #5
bcusstc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post

The top 2 bolts on the bellhousing are a famous PITA. You can get at the passenger side one from the passenger side and a long extension again, with an 18 mm socket. Drivers side from the drivers side. Everything is much easier if you first take off the entire floor cover panel, not just the shifter boots but the whole cover.





Hope that helps!
Im not sure i follow you and your explanation of a floor panel? Are you saying i should cut out my floor pans or my trans tunnel?
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Unread 05-15-2013, 02:06 PM   #6
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcusstc View Post
Im not sure i follow you and your explanation of a floor panel? Are you saying i should cut out my floor pans or my trans tunnel?
No, there is a access panel for service, that bolts onto the trans tunnel, which the shifters go thru. Basically the top of the tunnel. The booots bolt into this panel. but the entire panel can be un-bolted as a unit, leaving a hole about a foot square over the top of the trans. Then you can remove the trans shifter. I left the t-case shifter in place when I did mine, no need to remove it.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 02:34 PM   #7
bcusstc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post
No, there is a access panel for service, that bolts onto the trans tunnel, which the shifters go thru. Basically the top of the tunnel. The booots bolt into this panel. but the entire panel can be un-bolted as a unit, leaving a hole about a foot square over the top of the trans. Then you can remove the trans shifter. I left the t-case shifter in place when I did mine, no need to remove it.
Sorry i have carpet and never knew about this. It seems like this would be an easier way to access the top two bellhousing bolts am i wrong?
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Unread 05-15-2013, 03:10 PM   #8
jokerchief462
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You can access from below but you may need a universal joint and extra extensions. If you can't see them well enough lower your jack and tilt the engine and trans down a little. It is all easy enough just need a little patience.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 03:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete1991YJ View Post
The top 2 bolts on the bellhousing are a famous PITA. You can get at the passenger side one from the passenger side and a long extension again, with an 18 mm socket. Drivers side from the drivers side. Everything is much easier if you first take off the entire floor cover panel, not just the shifter boots but the whole cover.
That's what skinny, thin-armed, small handed kids are for.

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Unread 05-15-2013, 04:40 PM   #10
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcusstc View Post
Sorry i have carpet and never knew about this. It seems like this would be an easier way to access the top two bellhousing bolts am i wrong?
Whichever way is easiest. I did it both ways. I still needed a 12" extension tho. (and yes my arms are skinny... built like a basketball player)

EDIT: Jokerchief said it just right.
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Unread 05-15-2013, 08:15 PM   #11
bcusstc
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Does the exhaust crossover absolutely have to come off or is just to avoid swearing at it later?
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Unread 05-15-2013, 09:33 PM   #12
Dwarf
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The exhaust in mine is one welded piece. I had to take it out, and I busted the bolts off in the manifold. I even removed the driver fender and wheel well for easier access
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Unread 05-27-2013, 06:36 AM   #13
bcusstc
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I will be taking on my Clutch this week in the heep. I made friends with the local autoparts guy and scored a clutch kit for 102.00. I read on here to find a luk but all i could get was a Rhinopac. The weird thing is that on the bottom of the box, it says luk on it?

I am getting conflicting info on the top 2 bell bolts. Some posts call then the external torx e12 and some call them metrics.

Should i separate the tcase and tranny or grunt and bear it. im kind of on a budget so if i can save money by not draining all the trans fluid that would be great.
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Unread 05-27-2013, 06:37 AM   #14
bcusstc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefyter-Emt View Post
Another nice trick is to use ratchet straps (in lieu of a proper lift and tranny jack) You can use one to keep the motor in place over using a jack. This will reduce any damage and keep the jack out of the way.

Then use four straps to remove and install the transmission. (and transfer case) One strap at each end which is attached around each frame rail to make a sling. The second one is used to hold the assembly in place when the other strap is "full" and you need to release it to remove the extra strap. What is nice doing it this way, is that you can raise and lower it nice and easy, while also being able to twist it around, push in and out, and even lift up one end or the other to install the transmission back in. Give it a shot, so much better than a floor jack and safer too!

it may take a little longer to keep stopping to "unload" the straps, but so much safer, and you will love the control you have over the assembly when you are trying to line up the input shaft!
I do kinda like this idea, how would i rig this up to hold the motor in place?
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Unread 05-27-2013, 07:37 AM   #15
pete1991YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcusstc View Post
I do kinda like this idea, how would i rig this up to hold the motor in place?
I ran a chunk of fence post between the windshield frame and the roll bar, and hung it off of that with the ratchet strap just making a big loop. Going thru the access hole in the floor pan. I put a bottle jack under the oil pan which stayed there the whole time, to support the engine at whatever angle worked... just letting it pivot on its front mounts. I didn't separate the t-case.
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