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Unread 03-30-2009, 08:47 PM   #46
capone1680
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Looks good you did a Great Job.

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Unread 03-30-2009, 10:10 PM   #47
firefighter315
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Here are the pics of the failed glazing compound.







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Unread 03-30-2009, 10:15 PM   #48
firefighter315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 93jeepyj View Post
you may have better luck with bondo there. they glazing/spot putty is really only for tiny imperfections in paint or bondo and thats probably why it cracked. Thats too bad it looked good but im sure itll come out even better now that youve had a practice run.
I thought about going that route, but think I'm going to try to bring them all the way out with the JB since I still have plenty of that left. It cured REALLY hard and sanded well. I thought I had them shallow enough for the glazing compound, but as you can see, I was WRONG! I would guess they were around 1/32" deep before putting on the glazing. This was my first experience with the compound and a good learning opportunity. It did hold up well across the bottom where I got the cancer out. Those areas were much more shallow and I guess within the limits of this product. I'll repost the fix once I get around to it....
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Unread 05-22-2011, 11:55 PM   #49
firefighter315
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UPDATE for FAQ/Project section

I finally got around to fixing my rear gate. Like I said earlier in this thread, the glazing compound didn't tolerate the temperature changes well, and it failed during the colder months. After finishing up my tub off project this winter, I finally got around to correcting this problem. I decided to go with JeeperDon's suggestion and fill the holes with weld and go from there.

The following updates are copied from my build thread.....
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Unread 05-23-2011, 12:06 AM   #50
firefighter315
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Also over the weekend, FFJeep came out to help finish up some wiring of accessories while I turned my attention to a much overdue fix on my tail gate project I did a couple of years ago. You can find that project in the FAQ/Project section or here:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/t...roject-665733/

I'll make updates to that thread when I am totally done with it. The first time around, I used some JB Weld to fill the bolt holes from the carrier I removed, then finished them off with some glazing compound. That combination didn't hold up well to the temperature changes and the glazing compound cracked and looked like crap. This time around, I took the advice JeeperDon gave back then and drilled out the JB Weld and filled the holes with my welder, grinded them down flush, and will finish them off with some bondo to fill any imperfections. Hopefully this will be the final fix. If not, I'll have to come up with something else.

Here are a few pics from this project.

Original attempt gone bad...







Removing lock/handle hardware.






Ready to work.




Wire wheeled and flap disc'd




In this one, you'll also see some rot at the bottom that I'll have to address.


JB Weld drilled out.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 12:14 AM   #51
firefighter315
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I filled all the holes with my welder and began grinding them down.







Next I'll get to work on fixing the cancer hole and the old plug hole where the 3rd brake light wiring came through. Then on to smoothing, priming, and painting. Thanks again for reading about my progress and projects! Feel free to offer any advice or suggestions on this rear gate project. I am most definitely not a body work man!
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Unread 05-23-2011, 12:27 AM   #52
firefighter315
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I found some time to get back to working on the gate re-do. I went with a little Bondo to correct any imperfections after grinding and sanding the welds down.


You can see here on the first area, after removing the excess Bondo before it cured, there were very few areas that needed or accepted any fill of any depth.


After block sanding with 60 grit, followed by 130, I decided to use a little glazing compound to fill any pin holes or sanding marks in the Bondo. I am more confident in how it will perform this time because the areas it filled were nearly invisible to the naked eye and therefore very very shallow.







After final block sanding and prepping for primer/paint.


First coat of primer down.




Second coat of primer.


And, third coat.


Primer coat wet sanded with 800 grit paper.




First coat of color down.


Second layer.


Third.....


Fourth and final color layer.


Topped with two or three coats of clear. I'll wait a week or so to allow the clear coat to harden well before buffing it out and waxing it.
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Unread 05-23-2011, 12:39 AM   #53
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I'll post up some more pics when I get it buffed out and put back on the Heep. Thanks for checking out this project!
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Unread 06-22-2011, 10:54 PM   #54
firefighter315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter315 View Post
I'll post up some more pics when I get it buffed out and put back on the Heep. Thanks for checking out this project!
It only took me a month to get these added here. Buffed out and installed...





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Unread 09-03-2011, 07:30 AM   #55
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Hmm... New use for my JB weld. I am definitely trying this. I just removed the 31" crusty spare and tire carrier, and I too hate the frankenstein look. Thank you for posting the pics
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Unread 09-03-2011, 04:30 PM   #56
firefighter315
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No problem. Hope they help ya out on your project!
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Unread 11-02-2011, 09:49 PM   #57
iced98lx
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wait, you mean the "hundreds of bolts for no reason on your tailgate" look isn't in anymore?

Dang, I just got done doing that mod.

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Unread 11-03-2011, 07:37 AM   #58
firefighter315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iced98lx View Post
wait, you mean the "hundreds of bolts for no reason on your tailgate" look isn't in anymore?
Not for me it isn't. But hey, to each his own. Just didn't like it on mine.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 12:41 PM   #59
iced98lx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefighter315

Not for me it isn't. But hey, to each his own. Just didn't like it on mine.
Lol I need to do this. At least its less noticeable on green vs white.
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Unread 11-03-2011, 12:43 PM   #60
alexs93
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I did something similar to you firefighter315, except I left the spare tire rubber bumpers and I covered the tailgate holes in order to do a drop down...
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