SYE & Rear Driveshaft Suggestions - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 51 Old 08-17-2017, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
130Driver
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SYE & Rear Driveshaft Suggestions

Hey guys, I'm new around here, and I just acquired an '88 YJ as a project. The previous owner put as small lift - if I remember right he said 2" but I don't know that for a fact. I've only had it for about a week and yesterday the driveshaft broke so I'm assuming he didn't replace it when adding the lift. It completely departed the vehicle on the freeway, shearing just aft of the transfer case and also breaking at the UV joint entering the rear differential.

I have spent the last several hours trying to research what to repair it with, but frankly I wasn't anticipating this so early in the game, and am not all that well informed on what brands are good what's not so good. This is typically something I would really take my time to research, but given that it's completely out of commission at the moment, I'm up against the clock. I don't want to simply go with the cheapest option, but I am trying hard to come out under $300. Definitely under $500. I was hoping some people might have some suggestions to get me looking in the right places. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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post #2 of 51 Old 08-17-2017, 03:39 PM
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If you do an SYE, you will need to relocate the pinion angle. Either by using a lot of shims, about 15* worth, or move the rear spring perches, this is the best way but does require a welder.

$300..is a hack 'n tap sye and a cut down used driveshaft.
$500 would get an Advance Adapters SYE and a nice new drive shaft.
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post #3 of 51 Old 08-17-2017, 04:54 PM Thread Starter
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Well, crap, I haven't done any welding since high school, and certainly wouldn't be qualified to do any welding on the drive line. You just suggest a new slip yoke then? What do most guys do, surely all jeep owners aren't welders. LMAO.
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post #4 of 51 Old 08-17-2017, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Or, my understanding was that if a lift was installed you pretty much had to upgrade the driveshaft or it would ultimately cause high vibs and fail, but in doing some research I saw a different thread where the poster was putting on a 4" lift and some of the people responding were saying it really wasn't necessary for that size lift if he wasn't doing any crazy off roading. I do plan to do some off roading but nothing insane in the short run, and maybe more in the future after I've had some time and money to invest in further upgrades. Right now I'm just trying to work out the basic kinks. What are your thoughts on just going with OEM? Would it hold up or would I be looking at another sheared driveshaft within a year or two? I mean obviously the upgrade is the best option, but I'm just trying to determine if this is an acceptable, less expensive, less involved, middle ground that will get my by, because ultimately I'd like to go with a more aggressive lift later anyway. So, regardless of what solution I end up implementing, it's like to be replaced in a few years anyhow.
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post #5 of 51 Old 08-17-2017, 09:04 PM
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A lift usually requires some shims on the leaf spring pack. If they aren't there, then the PO screwed up. The angle has to be right. the best way to get it up and running right now, is to get a used stock driveshaft, and make sure the angle is correct. Also you can get a transfer case drop to help with angle

Then save your money, and do an SYE, double cardan driveshaft, and an 8.8 differential all at once. And then you can get rid of the TC drop, shims.

Done
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post #6 of 51 Old 08-17-2017, 09:51 PM
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JB Conversions for the SYE. $199 before shipping http://www.jbconversions.com/product...1j_std_sye.php

Find a local driveline shop for your driveshaft and have them make you one. I paid $350 before tax for mine. https://www.drivelinesnw.com/buy-par...front-or-rear/

For what it is worth with my 3.5" lift springs and 1/2" shackles I didn't need to shim the axle anymore than what was already on the springs to get the driveshaft to work.

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post #7 of 51 Old 08-18-2017, 06:50 AM Thread Starter
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I assume there are some write ups explaining how to determine what angle is needed and what angle you currently have? Are people making their shims or are these items that are purchased?
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post #8 of 51 Old 08-19-2017, 05:07 AM
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I recommend jb conversions for the SYE (check out the super short) and olivers for the shaft

You can pay to have a welder come by your place have a bead laid on the perches

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post #9 of 51 Old 08-19-2017, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 130Driver View Post
Well, crap, I haven't done any welding since high school, and certainly wouldn't be qualified to do any welding on the drive line. You just suggest a new slip yoke then? What do most guys do, surely all jeep owners aren't welders. LMAO.
Using shims for that big an angle change is like duct taping two ladders end to end to get yourself higher up for something. Find a welder. Do it right.

You could bolt the whole thing together with everything right and the new perches not welded. Then drive to a nearby welder person (shop or buddy) driving like there is a raw egg taped to the gas and brake pedals. It doesn't take much welding to secure the perch to the axle, can probably be done as is when you get there. Mark a line on the perch and axle before you leave, so you can verify no rotation on the trip, or can put it back if it does rotate a bit.
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post #10 of 51 Old 08-19-2017, 12:45 PM
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for the shaft portion of your mini project:

to save considerable money and still obtain a solid enough shaft, check out your craigslist or local junkyards for an XJ part out. Grab the front drive shaft and double cardan joint. Get your measurements and bring it into a local driveshaft shop for cut and balance.

Stop whining about the 'ride' - If your YJ ain't wrangling your soul free, then might I suggest you buy a stationwagon... at least you can fit all your bull**** in the back.
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post #11 of 51 Old 08-19-2017, 05:24 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.B View Post
A lift usually requires some shims on the leaf spring pack. If they aren't there, then the PO screwed up. The angle has to be right. the best way to get it up and running right now, is to get a used stock driveshaft, and make sure the angle is correct. Also you can get a transfer case drop to help with angle

Then save your money, and do an SYE, double cardan driveshaft, and an 8.8 differential all at once. And then you can get rid of the TC drop, shims.

Done
I'm really leaning towards this option, get it up and running again with grand plans for the future. And that way I'm not continually doing and redoing the same job. In the mean time though I really need to know how to determine what angle is needed and what angle I currently have. Also, what are guys using for shims if it turns out I need some? I figure that would be easier than lowering the transfer case.
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post #12 of 51 Old 08-19-2017, 07:02 PM
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A TC drop isn't that hard. All you need is a floor jack, preferably a tranny jack, and a socket wrench. Of course the difficulty can rise, depending on what part of the country you're in. If you live in the rust belt, it can be a lot harder. Mine came with a TC drop. It took me maybe an hour to remove it.

For shims, first you have to get the frame on jack stands in the rear, and the diff on stands. Then remove the u-bolts. Install the shims, then replace the u-bolts. You're not supposed to re use u-bolts, because they get stretched and become weaker the second time.

There's lots of threads on here to get the pinion angle right. Just make sure you have the correct thread for your particular setup.

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post #13 of 51 Old 08-20-2017, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the help. Sounds to me like the TC drop is actually the easier of the two options. I'll definitely be searching for the write ups you mentioned.
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post #14 of 51 Old 08-21-2017, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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I apologize for the fact neither of these images are right side up, I tried uploading them multiple times and they would upload sideways and upside down but never right side up. I ran out of ****s to give and just left them as is because you can still see what's I'm attempting to show just fine.

I have been looking into angles and from what I've seen the max you really want to go is 7 but for such a short distance I don't know how anyone does 7 or less. So, it looks to me like I need to lower the transfer case. I am just looking to have a few people with experience doing this tell me I'm not screwing it all up and my assessment is correct. One photo is the current state of affairs, the other I used a level to show what the approximate angle would be if the driveshaft were present. I used a square and estimated it's currently at approximately 20. Thoughts?
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post #15 of 51 Old 08-21-2017, 10:52 AM
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Not sure of the angle, but this is mine.
(no tc drop, no shims)
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