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Unread 02-15-2009, 12:08 PM   #16
Sharkbike
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EXCELLENT! I'll be saving this for my installation.

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Unread 02-22-2009, 08:57 AM   #17
FallstonYJ
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Fantastic Write-up!

GREAT WRITE-UP!! I am no stranger to automotive work but I was a little apprehensive going into this one. Your write-up gave me just the push I needed to attempt it on my own and I am glad I did. Thanks to your write-up I finished the install in two evenings with few problems.

Thanks again,
Tom
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Unread 02-22-2009, 09:23 AM   #18
USAFRecon
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Ok so what are the differences for a TJ? If any, cause I know they use the same T/C. This is the most detailed SYE install I have found, and if I can I'm using this as a reference, I lost the instuctions
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Unread 02-22-2009, 10:18 AM   #19
Brads_nky_yj
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definatly saving this thread! Great job man!!
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Unread 02-22-2009, 01:36 PM   #20
champelite210
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Most of the directions that come with these kits tell you to put the transfercase in 4 low. I thought the reason for shifting the transfercase into 4wd low was so that you wouldn't have to brace or hold the front drive shaft yoke.
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Unread 02-22-2009, 08:34 PM   #21
Opihi59
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To be quite honest, I do not know exactly why to put it in 4LO instead of, say N or leave in 2H, etc. I didn't try another option because I felt it best to follow instructions. You still have to brace the yoke either way though. You apply enough torque to the yoke nuts that you will turn your engine over otherwise. One reason for the 4LO position I think is that it shifts your Mode shaft/mode fork the maximal distance rearwards. That way you will be able to assess whether or not you shortened the mode shaft the correct amount (for those of you that have the long shaft version in earlier NP231J versions), otherwise you won't be able to put the extension housing back on and get it to seal. It'll make sense if you go back and look at the photographs where I am measuring the standout distance of the mode shaft thru the rear case.

I did discover that to hook up your new CV shaft, you need to run to NAPA and pick up a pair of U-bolt style U joint bolts, The set I picked up was made by Precision Universal Joint and had number 329-10 on them.

EDIT--I found this last sentence above about the U bolt style U jt bolts to be completely wrong. Reading back thru this, I'm not sure why I didn't delete this but missed it. Just scratch out that last sentence above about the NAPA part.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-13-2012 at 11:45 AM.. Reason: Clarification
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Unread 02-22-2009, 09:15 PM   #22
yjjason
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great write up ! what about the dana 44 [what year modle is it}i just did the sye kit & installed 04 rubicon 44 in wy 88 yj this week i'll put the front 44 in
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Unread 02-22-2009, 09:18 PM   #23
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its late overlook spelling
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Unread 02-23-2009, 07:44 AM   #24
champelite210
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I didn't have to brace mine, or my buddies. We must have had something set up differently than you.
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Unread 02-23-2009, 08:50 PM   #25
FallstonYJ
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I didn't have to brace mine either. I torqued the front and rear with the transmission in gear and the tc in 4-lo. No problems!
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Unread 02-24-2009, 12:04 AM   #26
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The reason you put it in 4Lo is so you can tell if the shift fork is going to be too long when you put the tail shaft cover on. If it hits the round pocket you have to cut the shift fork end so you can put the cover on......
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Unread 03-06-2009, 08:05 PM   #27
Opihi59
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More On Clocking the Gear

So a further word on clocking the speedometer sending unit. The unit has numbers scribed around it, and slots for the retaining clip. I have a 33 tooth gear now, so it is clocked to the 32-38 range. With my previous 30 tooth,though, I found I had to clock it a bit beyond the 26-31 slot for the retaining tab for it to engage on the drive gear. You can tell whether or not the gear is engaged by whether or not your speedometer works when you do a test drive.



The speedometer gear itself--both the 30 and the 33 tooth gear are yellow, and on other tooth counts the color varies to correspond to the tooth count. The version in this photo is the "short" shaft version used on the electronic speedo sender in my 93. Earlier models used a cable drive and utilize the long-shaft speedometer gears.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:09 PM..
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Unread 03-14-2009, 08:58 PM   #28
bigh20rnr
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Awesome write up! I have my SYE here and just waiting for my AX 15 with transfer case to get here so I can put it in. Will be using your writeup extensively! One question I had is will the mechanical speedo work ok with the SYE? Thanks

Rick
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Unread 03-14-2009, 09:48 PM   #29
Opihi59
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Looking up the various SYE kits online, I do not see that they have a different specification or part number for NP231J's with cable driven speedometers, or with electronic. Best thing to do is call up tech support for your brand SYE, and ask that question specifically, or since you already have the part in hand, see if your existing speedo drive adapter will fit in the new output housing that comes with the SYE kit.
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Fill out your PROFILE, and don't forget to look in the FAQ for writeups

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 03-15-2009, 10:57 AM   #30
BeerJ
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Awesome writeup man! It looks like you covered just about everything. Just a note for thos reading this though, if you notice some in and out play in the output shaft before you install the rear yoke, It will tighten up once the yoke is torqued to spec. No need to tear the t-case apart again to look for missing snap rings and such, I learned this the hard way.
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