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Unread 02-14-2009, 11:14 PM   #1
Opihi59
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SYE install with NP231 still "IN"

Today I installed the SYE with the NP231 still IN just to see how it would go. I did it over the course of about 5 1/2 hours which includes driving to the shop to press bearings out and drive back, and of course time to clean hands, take photos, resume work, etc. I'm not claiming I'm anything special, but it seemed to me it went very smoothly. I rebuilt this unit a year ago on the bench, so feel I am able to make some comparisons. It was easier dealing with pesky snaprings on the bench. That being said, it was still able to be accomplished. The photos I will be posting are from the orientation of laying on your right side down, with your head to the rear of the Jeep, from the driver's side of the Jeep. This way, if you do an install, you will see it from the correct aspect.

First off, the disclaimers--this is how I did it, it may not go this way for you. Make sure you take any and all appropriate safety measures like blocking your wheels, blah blah blah. I left the Jeep on the ground, wheels on. I also tried to show the socket size in any photos I took while wrenching so you can see what size to use, tried to use appropriate nomenclature, and to reference correct torque values.

Shift your Transfer case into 4LO, then prop up the transfer case tailshaft with a jackstand, remove the transmission mount and torque arm mount from the skid plate. Then remove the skid plate. Using a floor jack place another jack stand under the transmission case and then remove the stand under the tailshaft. Drain out the ATF into an appropriate receptacle. 30mm socket, wrench is on the drainplug. Fill plug is barely visible behind the wrench, below the red tag, better seen in a later photo.



While the ATF is draining, remove the front and rear driveshafts. 8mm socket or wrench to remove the 4 bolts on each end of both driveshafts. Wrap tape around the U joints once removed so the caps don't fall off. I removed the front shaft, then with the rear shaft still in to give resistance, removed the 1 1/8 nut off the flange of the front output shaft of the transfer case as shown in the picture below. It was tight, use a breaker bar if you don't have an impact wrench. I have the impact wrench, I just don't have a big enough air compressor to run it.......
Edit--but now, I sure have solved that air compressor issue.....



Now remove the rear drive shaft, expecting it to spill out some ATF onto you from the slip yoke and extension housing. Next step is to remove the speedometer gear, remove the bolt 1/2" head, and work the speedo assembly out. The unit is "clocked" meaning it is indexed to go in based on the tooth count of the speedometer gear. More teeth, larger diameter gear which means the unit would need to be rotated in the bore to accommodate this if you change your driven gear. The tooth numbers are cast into the black plastic housing. Otherwise if you didn't change the gear, it goes back in same orientation you removed it.



Remove the 3 15mm head bolts holding the rear case extension housing as shown, then remove housing by tapping on tabs with brass drift/hammer.



Next, remove the snapring behind the rear output bearing on the rear housing.



Then remove the 5 10mm head bolts holding the rear output housing to the rear case. I used a chisel as a wedge under the tabs to separate the RTV gasket next. NB The chisel is not being used to gouge into the joint, the tapered sides of the chisel is being used as a wedge under the tab to separate the joint.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:01 PM..
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Unread 02-14-2009, 11:22 PM   #2
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Next step is to remove the rear output housing, you will see the pump assembly and the mode shaft poking out the back of the rear case.



There are a total of 8 bolts that hold the rear case half to the front case half, several of these deserve special mention: one which is cleverly hidden top center requires a 10mm 12-point socket as in this picture.



The rest of the bolt heads are 15mm, but the bolts on the top left corner and bottom right corner of the case as viewed from the rear have washers under them. This signifys that there are registering dowels here, you need to make sure you replace the bolts with captured washers at these two locations. The rest of the bolts otherwise are interchangeable. Photos of course of all this, 2 pictures below show the bolts with washers.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:03 PM..
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Unread 02-14-2009, 11:35 PM   #3
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You should now be able to wiggle the pump loose, in this next photo you can see the ATF pump tube disengaged from the receptacle (hole) in the pump housing just above it as seen from below.



Next on the list is to remove the rear case half. There are several tabs under which you can pry with a big screwdriver to pop loose the RTV sealer. Once inside, this is what you see. My grubby finger is on the magnet, you should pull this out, clean it of bits of metal, and reinstall it.



You can now remove the front output shaft and gear, Mode spring/mode shaft and fork, and output shaft assembly AND chain essentially all as one unit. Front output shaft and gear in first photo below.



Output shaft and assembly being pulled out here, mode hub/mode sleeve does not need to be removed from the assembly.



Mode fork/shaft with mode spring removed shown below, main output shaft assembly has been removed.



And here it is on the ground, rear end of shaft is to the right.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:05 PM..
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Unread 02-14-2009, 11:45 PM   #4
Opihi59
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This is what is going back in/on--SYE kit. Rear of new mainshaft is facing towards you.



Remove the INNER snapring next, it holds on the mode hub/assembly, the WIDE one right up against the shaft--not the big skinny spring that holds the synchro tabs in place.....the mode hub assembly will then slide off the shaft easily.



Here is a comparison of the two shafts, the SYE shaft is the shorter/fatter one of course. The "fatter" aspect is what necessitates removing the 2 cage bearings from the inside of the drive sprocket. The SYE kit and also more "modern" versions of the NP231 do not use these bearings.



The drive sprocket with its cage bearings is to the right.



Use a press to press out the bearings.



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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:06 PM..
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Unread 02-15-2009, 12:01 AM   #5
Opihi59
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Measure your mode shaft. Some of the earlier YJ models 88-89 had a long shaft approx 10.2 inches long. It needs to be cut down to approx 9.380 inches with a cutoff wheel etc as part of the SYE conversion. I have a short shaft (stop laughing, this is a family forum) measuring just over 9" so it did not need to be cut. If you do need to cut your shaft, chamfer the end/de burr it, etc once cut.



So now it is just a simple task of reassembly. Lube the new SYE shaft with ATF, install the drive sprocket, hub/synchro assembly, and reinstall the snapring. Reference the earlier photos, it will look the same as disassembly, it is just all now on the new shorter SYE mainshaft.

Reinstalling the assemblies into the case does take several hands so you can't really take a photo of the first part of the assembly. The mode fork tines need to be engaged in the grooves in the mode hub, and the main shaft and mode fork can be both put in as a single unit. Next, install the chain. When you install the front output shaft and gear, you can withdraw the main shaft a bit to allow you to get the front output shaft gear engaged in the chain, and installed in the front output bearing. Once this is done, make sure you install the mode spring.

Edit--here is a step that has been brought to my attention to be a problem and I feel compelled to clarify. You must install the oil pump inside the rear case before you bolt the case halves back together. This is what the FSM directs:

Insert oil pickup tube in oil pump, then attach oil screen and connecting hose to pickup tube.
Install assembled oil pump, pickup tube and screen in rear case. Be sure screen is seated in case slot. (don't have a photo, but the screen fits in a slot in the base/inside of rear case)
Install magnet in front case.
Apply 3mm wide bead of.....insert your favorite RTV brand name here....to seal surface of front case.
Align and install rear case on front case, Be sure case locating dowels are in place and that mainshaft splines are engaged in oil pump inner gear.


When you use the RTV to lay 1/8" bead (3mm) around the mating surface of the case half, you should make sure it has been debrided of all old gasket material and is clean/dry. When you install the rear case half make sure the pickup tube does not fall out from the pump. There is an O ring that the pickup tube goes into in the pump (reference earlier disassembly photo) Carefully mate the rear case half making sure the pump splines match up on the new output shaft, the mode shaft fits thru the hole in the case, and the rear of the front output shaft engages in the pilot bearing in the rear of the case half. Now you understand why there are no photos of this bit, I was solo.

Bolt the case halves together remembering to put the 2 bolts with washers in the right place and the 12-point bolt as well, torque them to 25 ft-lbs evenly. You can then install the speedo drive gear front snap ring, the blue speedo drive gear, and then the rear snap ring for the speedo drive gear. It looks like this now.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:07 PM..
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Unread 02-15-2009, 12:22 AM   #6
Opihi59
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If the mode shaft extends further than this (approx 1") out the rear of the case with transfer case in 4WD Low, then you didn't cut it short enough--for those of you that had to cut.....



For comparison, here is the old on the left with then new shorter extension housing on the right. There is a "plug" that needs to be installed with a bit of RTV on the threads, this covers the vacuum activation port that is only used on Cherokees, on your YJ, you need to plug it. You can see the plug in the extreme right of the photo, laying on its side on the new extension housing....it has a black O ring around it, and is perched just above the hole into which it is to be installed.



Apply RTV to the mating surfaces, and install the new/shorter rear housing. Make sure you engage the tabs on the pump in the proper cutouts in the new housing, then install the 5 10mm head bolts and torque to 20ft lbs.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:07 PM..
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Unread 02-15-2009, 12:30 AM   #7
Opihi59
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At this point I reinstalled the front output yoke, but couldn't torque it to the required 150 ftlbs without turning the motor over..... (note that the FSM gives the torque amount as 110 Ft-lbs, while my particular kit said 150. I used 150 Ft-lbs on the front yoke)



....so I put the rear output yoke on and snugged it down after first lubing the shaft/splines/yoke and the seal with ATF. No, it didn't come painted black, I painted it several weeks ago when I was accumulating parts.



Then I had to get clever since I wasn't interested in putting in my front DS to torque the rear yoke bolt, then remove it and put in rear shaft to torque the front yoke bolt, and while it is down I am going to put in a D44 rear axle with different diff ratio than the existing front and won't be using the front shaft for a while yet because of that until I get a new front axle, so..............do this instead: Wedge in a few appropriate thickness pieces of wood between the flat side of the front yoke and the transfer case housing, this will allow you to torque all you want without turning the motor over with your efforts--yoke can't turn with the wood wedged in there, you get the picture I'm sure.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 06-11-2010 at 01:05 AM.. Reason: Kit-vs-FSM torque spec for front yoke nut
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Unread 02-15-2009, 12:39 AM   #8
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Then of course, you have to torque the rear output 1 1/8" yoke bolt as well, but the front wedgie doesn't work for that application (it would if you were removing the rear yoke bolt though). This is a time when you find that if 6" C clamps aren't big enough, then you gotta get out the 8 inchers. Clamp 2 X 4 across the opposing flat sides of the yoke, with the longer/top 2 X 4 so it will wedge into the underside of the floor pan when you tighten, so it won't let the shaft turn, blah blah blah, I'm sure you get it. Then you can torque away to the required 150 ftlbs.



Run your T case shifter through its positions from inside the Jeep to make sure everything shifts right and feels right, then go back under and reinstall your skid plate and THROW AWAY YOUR T-CASE LOWERING KIT. Remember to let your RTV cure overnite at least before you refill your case with ATF.

Okay, so I'm not trying to throw out my shoulder patting myself on the back or anything ladat, I am hoping someone can use some of this for whatever it may benefit them. There are planny things to consider when you are doing this, such as a complete rebuild with new seals, synchros, bearings and chain etc. I had done all of this just under a year ago so felt it didn't need anything more than just the SYE kit. I put all my old stuff back in. You'll have to decide for yourself if it is just SYE, or SYE with rebuild. I'll keep reading thru this very long post when all the bourbon and beer has worn off to make sure I left nothing out, and to perhaps clean up some explanations if needed. If you need further photos, if I took them, I'll post them up, just ask.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.

Last edited by Opihi59; 05-15-2010 at 11:08 PM..
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Unread 02-15-2009, 12:57 AM   #9
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Very Good writeup. I will be using this and a couple other when i finally get around to buying one and need to install mine. Rusty might even add this in the write up and help section.

what did you do for a drive shaft.
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Unread 02-15-2009, 12:59 AM   #10
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Excellent write-up!!!
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Unread 02-15-2009, 01:02 AM   #11
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Great write up!

This should be stickyed.
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Unread 02-15-2009, 01:06 AM   #12
Opihi59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blazin Den View Post
what did you do for a drive shaft.

For my rear driveshaft, I have a CV version '91 XJ front shaft that I have rebuilt, and will get cut down and balanced once I get my rear D44 in. That is another project (next one in line...) and the next write up that I'll try to post up.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 02-15-2009, 06:05 AM   #13
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Very well written and illustrated write-up! I wish the manufacturer's instructions that came with my SYE kit had pictures this clear.

Using the wood and clamps as a stop is a great idea. I managed to get my yokes torqued to spec with a large pipe wrench holding one yoke while I torqued the opposite end with an air impact wrench, then finishing it off with breaker bar and pipe (200 ft/lbs required for the rear yoke on a JB Conv. SS-SYE install). Although I did my SYE with the T-case removed, a pipe wrench could work as well if the installer didn't have the wood and clamps handy.
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Unread 02-15-2009, 08:16 AM   #14
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Sticky?

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Unread 02-15-2009, 09:19 AM   #15
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Nice Writeup. going in the bookmarks for me.
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