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SYE Driveshaft Combo question

959 views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Tshark299 
#1 ·
Getting ready to order BDS3.5 or RE Extreme 4.5" lift. I know I will need a SYE. But will I be ok with just the sye or do I really need to get the drive shaft?

On with the Answers!!!

Thanks
 
#2 ·
max3k said:
Getting ready to order BDS3.5 or RE Extreme 4.5" lift. I know I will need a SYE. But will I be ok with just the sye or do I really need to get the drive shaft?

On with the Answers!!!

Thanks
You need the drive shaft becaus the one you have is too short, and you need the "slip" in the driveshaft instead of in the slip yoke.
 
#3 ·
skylinerider said:
You need the drive shaft becaus the one you have is too short, and you need the "slip" in the driveshaft instead of in the slip yoke.
yup. no getting around it. the whole purpose of the SYE kit is to get rid of the sliding part of the t-case that makes it so long, but in doing so you don't leave any provision for the shaft to change length as your axle moves around. you have to get a new shaft that has the slip built into it like the front DS.
 
#4 ·
Not trying to hi-jack this thread but...

Does anyone think that CHEAP RE SYE kit would work alright? HAs anyone seen it first hand? Since I'm poor I was thinking someday (def. not soon) I would get that kit with a shortened XJ front shaft or something like that, assuming that would be a good setup for light off-roading. Any opinions?

Here's a LINK to RE's SYE page... it's the first one (RE1801). From the picture, I can't really understand how it works. I'm assuming it uses the stock tail housing?
 
#5 ·
that's what's commonly referred to as the hack and tap style. the red piece in the middle replaces the tail shaft housing and the thing on the left is the new seal. the last piece is the DS flange that will adapt the setup to the new DS. what you do is remove the stock extension housing and cut off (the hack) the last couple of inches on the main shaft of the t-case, leaving enough splines to slide into the supplied flange. then you need to drill the center of the cut shaft and tap it (the tap part, obviously) to accept the supplied bolt that will hold the flange to the shaft while in use. the tricky part is getting the hole you drill dead center on the shaft so you don't have a spinning flange that isn't centered (which can cause serious vibes if it's off too far) other than that it's pretty simple. you don't get a stronger output shaft that way though, and you shorten the contact area (and thus reduce the strength) of the splines holding the flange from spinning under load. I don't know exactly how much contact area on the splines the AA style SYE gives, but i do know that most, if not all of them, supply a beefed up main shaft to go with it. the 231 is a pretty strong case, but I think i would go with the AA style. but then, i was never good at drilling straight holes. if you've got a good drill press or have access to a metal lathe, then this would probably work fine for most off roading. usually your u-joint straps on the yoke will snap before you break the main shaft. HTH
 
#6 ·
sentinal02 said:
that's what's commonly referred to as the hack and tap style. the red piece in the middle replaces the tail shaft housing and the thing on the left is the new seal. the last piece is the DS flange that will adapt the setup to the new DS. what you do is remove the stock extension housing and cut off (the hack) the last couple of inches on the main shaft of the t-case, leaving enough splines to slide into the supplied flange. then you need to drill the center of the cut shaft and tap it (the tap part, obviously) to accept the supplied bolt that will hold the flange to the shaft while in use. the tricky part is getting the hole you drill dead center on the shaft so you don't have a spinning flange that isn't centered (which can cause serious vibes if it's off too far) other than that it's pretty simple. you don't get a stronger output shaft that way though, and you shorten the contact area (and thus reduce the strength) of the splines holding the flange from spinning under load. I don't know exactly how much contact area on the splines the AA style SYE gives, but i do know that most, if not all of them, supply a beefed up main shaft to go with it. the 231 is a pretty strong case, but I think i would go with the AA style. but then, i was never good at drilling straight holes. if you've got a good drill press or have access to a metal lathe, then this would probably work fine for most off roading. usually your u-joint straps on the yoke will snap before you break the main shaft. HTH
Cool, exactly the info I was looking for! Now I finally understand how that kit works.

How difficult is it to replace that output shaft for the other kits? Do you need special tools or anything or is it something the average mechanically inclined person can do themselves?
 
#7 ·
*cough* HI-JACK *cough*
 
#8 ·
max3k said:
*cough* HI-JACK *cough*
Sorry man but your question had been answered, and I figured this relavant off-shoot of the original topic could be useful to you and whoever else was wondering the same types of things. If not, I apologize.
 
#9 ·
Tshark299 said:
Sorry man but your question had been answered, and I figured this relavant off-shoot of the original topic could be useful to you and whoever else was wondering the same types of things. If not, I apologize.
lol man, i dont care...everyone else makes a big deal out of it for some reason....w00t
 
#11 ·
max3k said:
lol man, i dont care...everyone else makes a big deal out of it for some reason....w00t
haha alright, I'll be the first to admit that I have a tendency to occasionally carry threads in a new direction. Thought I actually offended someone this time!

BTW that last post was me... I'm on a friends computer and didn't realize someone else was already logged in here.
 
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