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Unread 03-25-2012, 09:56 AM   #16
idgara007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmyj View Post
I'm pretty sure they only have 4 terminals. They are wired as shown in the pics.

Power in
Ground
Illumination
Switched power out

What other terminal are you refering to?
Okay, I must have a slightly different model switch. Its upper light on when switch is on, and the switch that OP has is lower light on when switch on. Must be the difference. However, what is the difference between power in and illumination? Dont you use power from the dash lighting? Here is a pic of my switch and someone posted the wiring for it like such:



So you just tie power in and illumination together, correct? If not, what is the difference?

Also, how did you connect the two wires and splice them into the same spade connector? As in the first pic, two black wires come out of the same connector housing, as with yellow and red. Thank you for your help

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Unread 03-25-2012, 10:18 AM   #17
notmyj
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I'm on my way out the door, but yes you do have a different switch. See the part number at the top of the pic you posted. That number is a code that explains exactly how the switch was made and with what options and parts. The part number I used and have linked to is V1D2GHNB. To decipher the part numbers, look here http://www.carlingtech.com/pdf/CarlingSW_V2_3.pdf on page 6. It shows the break down of the numbers.

The reason I picked the switches in the first post is because they light up exactly as I wanted them to so they would illuminate the big window with the image on it when the parking lights are on. I did not use the illumination as the switch power because if there is a short with the switch wiring, I don't want to risk loosing my tail lights if the fuse pops. I didn't wire the illumination into the switch power because I didn't want the switches to be illuminated at all times as the switches are not powered via a keyed circut.

Remember, just because you have a carling contura switch, doesn't mean its teh right one. There are literally thousands of different builds of the contura II switches. I listed the link and part numbers for a very specific reason. If someone wanted to recreate what I did, then the part numbers I listed must be used. If you use switches with different part numbers, then I'm not sure how you would need to wire your switches.
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Carling Contura Switch Panel

If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-25-2012, 04:13 PM   #18
idgara007
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Okay thank you for your help. What did you wire the power to the switches then? For my switches, I should wire the illumination to the dash lighting, then what should I wire the power from? Can I run it from my auxiliary fuse box that will give it 12 volts from the battery? Really, Im confused about the power for the switches. It says one for lower light illumination and one for incoming power. Can this incoming power be from the battery? (12v) if I were to run it from dash illumination would that mean the switch wouldnt work unless the dash lights were on? Therefore if I ran it from the battery (via the aux fuse box) I could power the switch at any time even without a key in the ignition because it comes straight from the battery. Thank you again for your help!
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Unread 03-25-2012, 11:25 PM   #19
notmyj
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My power for the switches comes directly from the battery via 10amp inline fuse. The illumination wire comes from the tail light wire that I tapped into at the drivers seat. The ground terminates in the console. The switched power out is the 18ga wires. I can use such a small wire because the switches only control a relay. Every circut has a relay under the hood so I dont have hi amp loads running in and out of my console.
__________________
www.pghoffroad.com
My SOA Build
Recovery Gear Basics
My BUDGET York OBA Install
Budget Welding Cart
Carling Contura Switch Panel

If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-26-2012, 08:39 AM   #20
Que89YJ
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How is it working out for you? Are the relays working?
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Unread 03-26-2012, 09:28 AM   #21
notmyj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
How is it working out for you? Are the relays working?
Been there for a while and never had a problem. I only use Bosch relays, no china junk ones. I have a feeling they will out last the engine in the jeep.
__________________
www.pghoffroad.com
My SOA Build
Recovery Gear Basics
My BUDGET York OBA Install
Budget Welding Cart
Carling Contura Switch Panel

If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-27-2012, 09:49 PM   #22
idgara007
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FYI to anyone in the future, yes I just plugged in the power in to my aux fuse box and fused it with a 15 amp fuse. If I need a larger (like 20amp) I hope someone will let me know, or I might find out when I keep blowing the fuse and get a larger. Thanks everyone
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Unread 03-28-2012, 07:13 AM   #23
Que89YJ
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IDgara it depends on what you are running off the switch. What ever you have hooked up should come with the current rating. Use it to determine the fuse size. Make sure your wires are the correct guage for the current draw.
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Unread 03-28-2012, 06:59 PM   #24
idgara007
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I thought because it comes thru the relay, it uses less power than the stuff (lights) I have hooked up to it? Therefore it will draw much less current than the lights since it only will need to power the small LED in the switch and not the whole offroad light chain as well. The lights didnt come with any information such as power/current draws for the small internal LEDs so maybe its much smaller than 15 and I need a smaller fuse. Logic tells me not that I would need a larger one, but actually a smaller one since its a small LED in the switch.
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Unread 03-28-2012, 07:25 PM   #25
idskot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idgara007 View Post
I thought because it comes thru the relay, it uses less power than the stuff (lights) I have hooked up to it? Therefore it will draw much less current than the lights since it only will need to power the small LED in the switch and not the whole offroad light chain as well. The lights didnt come with any information such as power/current draws for the small internal LEDs so maybe its much smaller than 15 and I need a smaller fuse. Logic tells me not that I would need a larger one, but actually a smaller one since its a small LED in the switch.
This is true. You shouldn't have any issues running relays! The only power draw will be from the LED lights, as idgara007 mentioned. The relays are controlled VIA voltage (magnets and stuff, y0). So they use nearly no amperage. I think a 10amp would be fine for a switch panel that controls relays.

But the relays are a different story, of course.
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Unread 03-29-2012, 12:57 AM   #26
plumber1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
I noticed with the blue ones in this same location (where the stock defrost would be) I have no issues at night seeing the print because there is the little light above that area. BUT,,,,, I mounted three more below them and you can't see the print at night without a light shining on them.. I'll be putting a small LED above those.

Don't let me drive your Jeep I might get confused

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Unread 03-29-2012, 06:12 AM   #27
Que89YJ
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If it is just control voltage switching the relay then you are fine with the lower current fuse. Contrary to what people think the fuse current rating isn't setup for the current rating of the device you are controlling, it is setup to protect wiring so the wiring determines the current rating for a fuse in a circuit.
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Unread 03-29-2012, 08:40 AM   #28
notmyj
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Just to update the original project. I have since moved the switches to a center console that I grabbed out of retired police car. The console is made by Troy Products. I got a face plate to fit my CB and a face plate to mount the switches. I remade the labels using a Laser printer as the labels I made with the inkjet bled over time.

Here are a few pics of the final install.



__________________
www.pghoffroad.com
My SOA Build
Recovery Gear Basics
My BUDGET York OBA Install
Budget Welding Cart
Carling Contura Switch Panel

If it has tracks, tires or tits, its gonna cause a problem.

"Everytime someone "upgrades" a D35, an angel looses its wings."

"Dizzy" - What SnoopDog would call a Distributor if he was a mechanic. I cringe every time I hear this moronic term

Quote:
Originally Posted by Warren Zevon
Send lawyers, guns and money. The **** has hit the fan...
92, 4.0, AW4, 8.8, D30, 15x10, 37's, SOA etc, etc
92, 2.5, 30, 8.8, 4.88, Locked, Winch, 15x8, 35's, 3.5" (RIP)
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Unread 03-29-2012, 08:47 AM   #29
Que89YJ
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That really looks great.
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Unread 11-08-2012, 08:31 PM   #30
idgara007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Que89YJ View Post
If it is just control voltage switching the relay then you are fine with the lower current fuse. Contrary to what people think the fuse current rating isn't setup for the current rating of the device you are controlling, it is setup to protect wiring so the wiring determines the current rating for a fuse in a circuit.
true true, but along with that I need to choose wiring to hook up these switches as well. Im not sure if the switches say how much power is required for the LEDs in them. They say a max of 20amps but I know it takes much less just to power the LED. technically if I ran 5 in parallel they would all see the 12volts but the current would increase 5 fold, so I would need larger wire to accommodate this correct?

I dont really want to run 10ga wire just for switches because it is very thick and stiff. If I only ran 18 ga there is a risk of possibly overloading the max current for that wire.

FYI: i would be running switches for relays to lights and compressor system and the only direct power would be to the CB which only needs 2amps anyways. so nothing of a major power draw.

another point of curiosity looking at the OPs pics, how were you able to crimp in both wires to one terminal? it looks very clean but I cant seem to figure how to do them like that. speaking of which, what terminal (and source if any) did you use in the connector housing you linked?
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