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Unread 12-28-2006, 04:30 PM   #151
JeeperDon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David K.
I think that the difference for the tach ins't chevy vs. jeep. More obd1 vs. obd2. Different signal strength.
I'd have to differ that that is the only reason, only based upon my personal experience with my swap. The GM computer systems definitely put out either 1/2 or twice the pulses of a YJ Jeep computer, at least my newer '02 GM one did. Then there is also that the pulses are based upon sparks, not crank rotation (like counting CPS pulses or the like). I learned most of this from a long Dakota Digital phone call.

Hey, if it's bouncing now, great, if it happens to be accurate too, more great. The worse case scenario is you need an $80 box.

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'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3 Vortec V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(w/WarnHubs), 4.88 gears, 35" BFG KM2's, AX15, 15x7 wheels, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000, no top or doors Apr-Oct.
Member and Web guy: New Mexico 4 Wheelers My Truck Page on NM4W Site
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Unread 12-28-2006, 05:13 PM   #152
1 ton yj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin
thanks 1 ton!
the cooler is a seperate cooler that has its own fan, there is a pic of it in a previous post. the fan is wired to ignition, so the fluid will stay nice n cool!
advanced did give me tranny cooler line, so good there. spoke to a friend of mine and he said to double the clamps on the hose and tighten them with a 1/4 drive instead of a nut driver as i did.
if that doesn't work, will just get the fittings for the tranny, the cooler already had them in the box, and run tranny line from there to the cooler. it isnt leaking at all fom the cooler, but the fittings that screwed into that had the notches on the bottom of them (barb fitting?) will give it a try with the double clamps, and if that fails, i will follow your advise, thanks!
managed to get 2 hoses that i think will work, if they do i will post up the part numbers!
well back to see the tranny line monster and the coolant hose beast.......
booked in for the exhaust system on monday the guy is coming into work just to do my junk, what a hero! he said @$250 from the manifolds back to the tailpipe, including a magnaflow muffler (no cat) in 2 1/2" tube. that sound ok? the price and 2 1/2", or go 3"????
thanks again guys, will update later tonight.
martin
If it is leaking where the fitting threads into the cooler, try some pipe dope. If your trying to clamp the hose to tubes then yeah its gonna leak. Loose the tubes and get fittings for the trans that have nipples on them. Auto parts stores will have it.

my tranny cooler also has a fan but it has a 160* thermostat on it.

The exhaust quote doesn't sound bad, 2 1/2 should be fine
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Unread 12-28-2006, 06:18 PM   #153
leftlanetruckin
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believe me don, $80 for the dakota box is not a bad deal!! think i spent more than that on zip ties mate....only to cut them off when i was happy with the wiring... may have something to do with mine being a tbi and yours is the vortec?? not a clue, but i did save the dakota site in my favorite places...
got the top rad hose on, no joints. the bottom one will have to have a joint in it for the angle to be correct. will post pics/part numbers later this evening.
i will try the double clamp deal 1 ton, but it sounds like i may be p'ing into the wind! can see a trip to the parts store, fittings in hand, in my future
i'll try them just because i have them, but even if they do seal it up, i think i will go that route ayway, better safe than sorry. be easier to do those after the exhaust is on i think, so i will be able to route the rubber lines as far away as possible from the heat. i wired the tranny fan in permanent run, although i did think about using my old fan controller for it. going to get a tranny temp gauge and see how it goes, if it sunning too cold, i will put a controller on it.
will update later, my belly says it is feeding time at the zoo!
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/

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Unread 12-28-2006, 06:28 PM   #154
KrwlinTJ
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Martin, try flaring the ends of the hard line, and then put the rubber hose on with the clamps. this is what i did and worked like a charm,, no leaks. just some food for thought.

Also let me know what you used for the hoses, and the part numbers, if you found an easier way please let me know... I tried my best with what i have and that was the best i can come up with.

Thanks
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My DIY Snorkel write up Click here...
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Unread 12-28-2006, 06:41 PM   #155
1 ton yj
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just wrap the exhaust if you're concerned about heat on the lines. my fuel lines are an inch from my muffler which is wrapped. I shot the lines with an IR temp gun and they were only about 15 degrees warmer next to the muffler than anywhere else.
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Unread 12-29-2006, 12:27 AM   #156
leftlanetruckin
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rob, i flared the ends of the metal lines already, put an extra clamp on each one and tightened the existing ones today.not started it again to check, but fingers crossed!! the fuel sender should be on its way to you tommorow, so expect it middle of next week. sending it usps.
rad hose numbers....
top: (E)71644 advance auto parts number, no joints needed, just trim a little off each end.
lower: (E)71421 advance again. got to cut and reangle the part that goes to the lower radiator neck. 1 joint.
pics of hoses....
lower hose installed, can see where i made a joint and re angled the neck.
lowerhose2.jpg
upper hose, nothing needed besides a quick trim! both came with the flex cover already installed......dunno if that makes a difference but i left it on.
topradhose.jpg
managed to get the rear bumper on too, welded 1/4" to the rear crossmember, then welded 6 pieces of 1/4x2x2 angle iron to the rear of the bumper, then welded the bumper to the crossmember. did this on the last frame, but only used 4 pieces of angle and never had a problem, so figured 6 is cheap insurance
prepping the rear bumper with the new angle iron (had to cut off the old stuff that i welded to the old pos frame....
bumperprep1.jpg

new bumper installed, and painted all the bare metal (again...) its a tire carrier, hi lift jack mount, jerry can carrier and antenna mount all in one. also has the 2" reciever and shackles...
rearbumper.jpg

well thats me for the day folks, got the guy thats buying my old 2.5/ax5 coming at 9am, so gotta be up n ready. will be testing the radiator and tranny cooler fittings tommorow, aswell as wiring up the back up light on the bumper. fingers crossed!
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

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Unread 12-29-2006, 05:41 AM   #157
JeeperDon
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Those rad hose pix make me glad I went with the 'conversion' rad from 4wd hdw. It bolts into a YJ and the in/outlet are on the correct sides for a Chevy. Also being a 3 core, it cools great.
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Unread 12-29-2006, 08:13 AM   #158
David K.
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what I wrote was hijacking
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Unread 12-29-2006, 08:21 AM   #159
leftlanetruckin
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yeah i thaught about that conversion rad, but its another pile of $$$$, and the rad i am using is brand new!! i could have got the flexible s/steel hoses, top and bottom for @$100, but went to advanced anyways to see what i could "engineer"
i know there will be lots of little things i will be adjusting/changing/yelling at/wanting to burn, but at least now i have a starting point!
put 2 1/2 gallons of coolant in it last night, and that was without it running! so i guess i need more of that for starters....as well as atf......used over a gallon of that... mind half of that is probably on the floor...
i measured the driveshafts yesterday, and the front shaft may go back on!!! what a bonus. if i remember right, the shafts were needing to be 21" rear and 41" front.
be good when i have the exhaust done, can let it sit and idle then and not get deafened or burn cables/hoses that are anywhere near the manifolds...
well, back to hte dungeon for me, saying goodbye to the old motor tanny this morning,
__________________
1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
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Unread 12-29-2006, 08:52 AM   #160
KrwlinTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin
yeah i thaught about that conversion rad, but its another pile of $$$$, and the rad i am using is brand new!! i could have got the flexible s/steel hoses, top and bottom for @$100, but went to advanced anyways to see what i could "engineer"
i know there will be lots of little things i will be adjusting/changing/yelling at/wanting to burn, but at least now i have a starting point!
put 2 1/2 gallons of coolant in it last night, and that was without it running! so i guess i need more of that for starters....as well as atf......used over a gallon of that... mind half of that is probably on the floor...
i measured the driveshafts yesterday, and the front shaft may go back on!!! what a bonus. if i remember right, the shafts were needing to be 21" rear and 41" front.
be good when i have the exhaust done, can let it sit and idle then and not get deafened or burn cables/hoses that are anywhere near the manifolds...
well, back to hte dungeon for me, saying goodbye to the old motor tanny this morning,
Martin, from your pictures of the lower rad hose, it seem like your motor is sitting low between the frame rails. Do you have enuff clearance from the motor acc to the drive shaft? Just wondering , because when i did my conversion i had put everything on before i welded the mounts to the frame, that is when i noticed that the driveshaft would hit the oil filter and the y-pipe..

Also the rad shroud isnt not going to do its job right, your fan looks like it sits alot lower then the shroud, so you might want to look into getting a complete electric fan with a built in shroud around it, like the one off a ford taurus, or the one i have off a Grand Caravan.. I could be wrong, but from looking at your pictures it just seems like the motor sits lower than the rad and shroud..
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1997 Jeep TJ

4 Cyl out 6 Cyl going in..

My DIY Snorkel write up Click here...
Homemade Snorkel

Chevy 4.3 Conversion Click here...4.3 Chevy Conversion
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Unread 12-29-2006, 09:05 AM   #161
leftlanetruckin
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the motor is set to where i have clearance between the top of the air cleaner and the hood. and yes the shroud is a little higher than the fan.....i do have a rad lowering kit that i got with the b/lift, so i could use that if needed. i am going to put the f/driveshaft on today for a test fit and for checking clearances, but from looking at it, the y pipe will go above it with room to spare (in theory...lol) that will be why my t/case what hitting the skid plate, i wanted to lose the body lift, so everything on mine is lower i am guessing??? if ultimately needed i could raise the motor by making a spacer for the mounts, i used the novak mounts so have quite a bit of adjustment if i need it... i will double check though. this is exactly why i asked a veteran wheeler i know who is coming up here on saturday, to crawl all over it and check it all out. no doubt there will be things i missed/screwed up!
stacy took the sender unit to work today, so it will be mailed this morning mate!!
i thaught, as far as cooling goes, that the tranny cooler fan running, and using the motor fan, it should be ok, but time will tell.........the shroud is fitted right at the top, just the blades are missing at the bottom. my 1st thaught was getting a fan that fit inside the jeep shroud, but still using the motor fan. can pick up a jeep shroud for cheap, so wasnt too concerned about hacking that one down, hell i had to dig it out of my crap pile!
__________________
1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

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Unread 12-29-2006, 09:16 AM   #162
KrwlinTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin
the motor is set to where i have clearance between the top of the air cleaner and the hood. and yes the shroud is a little higher than the fan.....i do have a rad lowering kit that i got with the b/lift, so i could use that if needed. i am going to put the f/driveshaft on today for a test fit and for checking clearances, but from looking at it, the y pipe will go above it with room to spare (in theory...lol) that will be why my t/case what hitting the skid plate, i wanted to lose the body lift, so everything on mine is lower i am guessing??? if ultimately needed i could raise the motor by making a spacer for the mounts, i used the novak mounts so have quite a bit of adjustment if i need it... i will double check though. this is exactly why i asked a veteran wheeler i know who is coming up here on saturday, to crawl all over it and check it all out. no doubt there will be things i missed/screwed up!
stacy took the sender unit to work today, so it will be mailed this morning mate!!
i thaught, as far as cooling goes, that the tranny cooler fan running, and using the motor fan, it should be ok, but time will tell.........the shroud is fitted right at the top, just the blades are missing at the bottom. my 1st thaught was getting a fan that fit inside the jeep shroud, but still using the motor fan. can pick up a jeep shroud for cheap, so wasnt too concerned about hacking that one down, hell i had to dig it out of my crap pile!
Cool, no doubt you are doing a great job on your rig, but i just wanted to make sure that everything was good and you had clearance. Just looking out for you..
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1997 Jeep TJ

4 Cyl out 6 Cyl going in..

My DIY Snorkel write up Click here...
Homemade Snorkel

Chevy 4.3 Conversion Click here...4.3 Chevy Conversion
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Unread 12-29-2006, 11:43 AM   #163
leftlanetruckin
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Quote:
Just looking out for you..
thanks! keep em coming, if i messed up, i'd rather know now than on a trail in god knows where!
just got rid of the old motor, tranny and bits n pieces......so not done a lot on mine, but i am $300 richer
fired itup this morning, and upto yet, no tranny oil leaks!
going to tighten the lug nuts and the pitman arm nut for when i goto the exhaust shop on monday, dont want a wheel or the steering falling off!!! i only put the pitman arm nut on finger tight because the steering is going to be coming of for a crossover/highsteer setup, the link is at about a 45 degree angle right now!
after thats done, will be test fitting the front shaf, although i think i am gonna have to cut a little more of the skidplate out for it...
want to get that on so the exhaust doesnt interfere with it on up or down travel, although a few buddies of mine swear blind that running the driver side downpipe along the front of the motor is the best thing since sliced bread! will ask the exhaust guy and see whet he says.
is it best to do the iac solenoid thing before the exhaust or after? read and seen posts where the iac motor has to be unplugged, etc etc etc to get the correct idle.
does this have to be done after the exhaust or can i do it now??
cheers guys!
martin
__________________
1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
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Unread 12-29-2006, 02:23 PM   #164
JeeperDon
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The comment about the front drive shaft is very valid. I fabbed up my exhaust before adding the shaft, and now the two are only 1.5-2" apart on flat ground. After two yrs of off-road, I have a very slight ring on the drive shaft and small scuff on the exhaust. I'm more worried about it now since I went to SOA from Monoleaf, and expect more flex off-road (have not gone with SOA yet). I should do some routing of that sides Y leg before I off-road with it.
__________________
'93 YJ, '02 GM 4.3 Vortec V6, SOA, dual ARB's, 8.8+D30(w/WarnHubs), 4.88 gears, 35" BFG KM2's, AX15, 15x7 wheels, NP231+4:1+SYE+2LO, York OBA, Warn M8000, no top or doors Apr-Oct.
Member and Web guy: New Mexico 4 Wheelers My Truck Page on NM4W Site
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Unread 12-29-2006, 02:43 PM   #165
leftlanetruckin
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managed to get the f/ds on there, and there seems to be enough clearance for the pipe on that side, will know for sure moinday! good news is that the motor mounts are in the lower holes, so can undo 8 bolts and raise the motor 1.5" in about 15mins....

made my first a/hole mistake though......put the old y pipe top pipes on so i could set the ignition etc, and noticed the temp gauge was upto 200, stopped it and saw the radiator header tank bubling away!!!!!
thaught i had a bad head gasket, or head!!!
then noticed that the lower hose is stone cold....
dumba$$ me must have put the t/stat in the wrong way!!! thank god huh?
well, waiting for the thing to cool off now....
__________________
1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

Years to gain the hands on experience, and offer it freely.
Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
Choose wisely!
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