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post #1 of 19 Old 07-03-2012, 10:51 AM Thread Starter
calpbs
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Suspension Tech

I have a 4' ROUGH COUNTRY lift and a shackle reversal on my YJ. My question is the front shackle supposed to be straight up and down or is it supposed to be canted forward or aft? Secondly I have read several comments about removing the track bars front and rear, Will this take away street manners in lieu of off road manners? Will this weaken the suspension? I have all new poly graphite bushings in the springs? Just wondering if I am making my jeep handle poorly by leaving them on?


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post #2 of 19 Old 07-03-2012, 10:58 AM
Michaelgoesrawr
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The track bars don't really change on road handling. It really depends on how you like it though. They do however bind the suspension making the ride a little worse. Take them off and drive with it for a week, if you don't notice a difference put them in the scrap pile. If you do, and you don't like it, put them back on but make sure you have extension brackets. But the latter is highly unlikely.

And as for the shackles I think they are suppose to be aft a bit. Not sure though so don't quote me.

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post #3 of 19 Old 07-03-2012, 11:23 AM
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The shackles are supposed to be in a position that when the spring compresses, it's already allowing the shackle to move away from it. Having it pull back in is going to fight the spring and make your terrible springs ride even worse

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post #4 of 19 Old 07-03-2012, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calpbs View Post
I have a 4' ROUGH COUNTRY lift and a shackle reversal on my YJ. My question is the front shackle supposed to be straight up and down or is it supposed to be canted forward or aft? Secondly I have read several comments about removing the track bars front and rear, Will this take away street manners in lieu of off road manners? Will this weaken the suspension? I have all new poly graphite bushings in the springs? Just wondering if I am making my jeep handle poorly by leaving them on?
I'll second the tracbar removal. It really helps to make those agressive speed bumps less bone-jarring. Can you post a pic of your shackles with a load on the springs? That way we can better answer your question about shackle angle. Check this link and see if it answers your questions...

http://www.jeeptech.com/susp/elkcahs/index.html

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post #5 of 19 Old 07-03-2012, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
The shackles are supposed to be in a position that when the spring compresses, it's already allowing the shackle to move away from it. Having it pull back in is going to fight the spring and make your terrible springs ride even worse
I think what he is trying to say here is it should be canted slightly forward. However straight up and down should be ok. If it is canted aft at all that would be bad and fight what the spring is trying to do because oif the arc of motion the shackle makes.

Physics is your friend.

1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

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I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
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. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
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diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

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this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #6 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 07:17 AM Thread Starter
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Here is where the shackle rides.
Attached Thumbnails
014 (2).jpg  

I have done so much with so little for so long, I can do anything with nothing forever.

Charlie Lamar
Ringgold, GA
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post #7 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 07:27 AM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calpbs
Here is where the shackle rides.
The angle looks fine to me. That looks like one long *** shackles though. You should consider shortening them. Your springs will thank you. Your steering will too.

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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #8 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 07:47 AM
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I don't think the steering is as much affected by a shackle of that length and a srs

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post #9 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siva283 View Post
I think what he is trying to say here is it should be canted slightly forward. However straight up and down should be ok. If it is canted aft at all that would be bad and fight what the spring is trying to do because oif the arc of motion the shackle makes.

Physics is your friend.
Keep in mind that his shackles are reversed, so the bottom of the front shackle (if not straight up and down) should be pointed slightly to the rear while at rest. The OP's shackle angles look fine...

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post #10 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 08:33 AM
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Upon further review of your pic, you might want to consider getting a different front driveshaft that can collapse more when the axle moves back under compression. Right now it looks like you could be putting tremendous pressure on your transfer case every time you load the springs on even a speed bump since the drive shaft can't compress any more than it is currently sitting at rest.

This area needs to have a space at the slip joint for expansion/compression
014-2-.jpg

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post #11 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 08:35 AM
RockWoRM
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I'm curious as to what shackles are in the rear? Those do look a bit long. I would consider a smaller pair as long as it does'nt make the nose dip. And yes, ditch the tracs, but keep the sway. .$o2



WRM

'05 LJR, 6sp, RC long arm w/MC 6" coils, 5.13 D44's w/chromo shafts, MC fenders/sliders/body armor, 37x12.50 MTR's, Warn 9.5, RockHard swing out w/full spare. <><
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post #12 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
calpbs
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Thanks, that front drive shaft may be my vibration. I am getting ready to regear to 4.10's so I am doing a complete front end rebuild. Believe that drive shaft needs delt with today though.

I have done so much with so little for so long, I can do anything with nothing forever.

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Ringgold, GA
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post #13 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 10:08 AM
Siva283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nafpu

Keep in mind that his shackles are reversed, so the bottom of the front shackle (if not straight up and down) should be pointed slightly to the rear while at rest. The OP's shackle angles look fine...
You are correct. I didn't notice the shackles reversal. Pics are small on my phone.

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1995 YJ. 2 inch BDS Spring lift. 1 inch shackle lift. 1.25 inch JKS Body Lift 33x12.5x15's. Engo 10,000 pound winch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
I gave the Jeep the required offering of $$, sweat, and blood, and everything works fine now. -- Jim
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldso View Post
. It started with a $200 axle, and a few thousand dollars later I was done :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Luuca View Post
diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

Ask me how I know...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #14 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
calpbs
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Well the front driveshaft is tight and I will shorten it about 2 inches so it will have no chance to bind, it is removed for now. I test drove it and still have the vibration at 20 mph. I checked the toe and it was 1/2 inch toed out. I adjusted it to zero toe. The vibration improved. I did discover the pitman arm was loose so I tightened it as well. Still have the 20 mph vibration but less pronounced. I removed the front track bar to no change. I am going to remove the rear track bar next but with low expectations. The shackles are the same legnth on both front and rear, I could drill holes in the front shackle to shorten them, not sure if that will help. I do plan on replacing the ball joints. I cant figure the vibration, hope its the driveshaft balance.

I have done so much with so little for so long, I can do anything with nothing forever.

Charlie Lamar
Ringgold, GA
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post #15 of 19 Old 07-04-2012, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calpbs View Post
Well the front driveshaft is tight and I will shorten it about 2 inches so it will have no chance to bind, it is removed for now. I test drove it and still have the vibration at 20 mph. I checked the toe and it was 1/2 inch toed out. I adjusted it to zero toe. The vibration improved. I did discover the pitman arm was loose so I tightened it as well. Still have the 20 mph vibration but less pronounced. I removed the front track bar to no change. I am going to remove the rear track bar next but with low expectations. The shackles are the same legnth on both front and rear, I could drill holes in the front shackle to shorten them, not sure if that will help. I do plan on replacing the ball joints. I cant figure the vibration, hope its the driveshaft balance.
Do you have a new rear driveshaft with an SYE kit? T-case drop? How are your driveline angles?

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