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Building a Bumper?Ruffstuff Axle Simple Swap Kit!~Artec JK 1 TON SWAP~

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Unread 06-30-2013, 02:12 PM   #1
cojab
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Stretch and spring questions

Ok guys, I know there's a ton of info on here about this and I've been reading as much as I can but it's time to put a few questions out in an open thread for some expert advise from you all.
Time has finally opened up a bit and I am getting ready to do my axle swaps. (D30 front and 8.8 rear.) I currently have 3 1/2" BDS springs, 1" lift shackles in front and 3/4" lift Boomerangs in the rear. I also have 33" tires but the end goal is to get and clear 35's with these swaps.
I've decided to add some stretch to the Jeep when I do these swaps. I'm looking for 2-3" on each end. If I use the Wagoneer springs I'm uncertain if they will clear the 35's without having to do any body lift or maybe 1" of BL at the most. Any one have thoughts on this.
The other option seems to be to do the Rancho 44044 springs which will basically yield a 4" lift. How do these springs ride? This is a more expensive option but if its better I wouldn't mind since I could sell my BDS springs and get some of that cash back.
Another option I was looking at is using the Ruffstuff 2plus kit http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/2PLUS.html and use my current springs. I'm not real sure if this is the way I want to go though because I think I might want a little longer spring to increase my shackle angles a bit. Any opinions on this?
Sorry for the long post but thanks for the help.

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Unread 06-30-2013, 02:25 PM   #2
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Move the spring perches to where you want them. If you are staying spring-under add a bit of angle to your shackles. The front will be a bit tricky to keep steering linkage from binding but it is doable. You will have to trim sheet metal to fit 35s on a working suspension particularly with any kind of stretch.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 03:36 PM   #3
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Thanks for the input Fratis. Like I said I've been doing the required reading here and I should have known you would throw that option in there! I forgot to add that to the list. Definitly an option that I will have to throw some serious consideration to.
I should have added that I am SUA and plan on staying that way (at least for now) and will be doing tube fenders/flares front and rear for the extra clearance.
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Unread 06-30-2013, 03:40 PM   #4
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I guess that I should also add that the D30 I have to put in it I have put the Rusty's heavy duty tie rod and drag link on it with a flip kit. I realize I will probably have to move the steering box forward and for the rear I plan on doing the dimple mod as well.
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Unread 07-01-2013, 04:34 PM   #5
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Bump

I'm real interested if anyone has the Rancho 44044 installed and how they ride and flex before I decide which route to take. Anyone???
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Unread 07-01-2013, 04:41 PM   #6
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AS someone who JUST did this setup. AHEM! (I have a full set of waggy springs laying around...) I went with the 3.5" BDS. The waggy springs will fit 35's but you will trim quite a bit and high line the hood. Or bump stop like crazy. Check my build thread to get an idea of the difference between the two.

I agree with fratis. Keep your 3.5" BDS. Move the hangers to where you want them and the stretch will follow. This is what I chose mainly because I moved them too far for the waggy springs. A spring with the pin in the center will flex better than an offset one. Your shackle angle will be more is you move the hanger. This will also yield more flex and a softer ride.

It depends on what you wanted to do. I wanted the same thing as you do. But had to change paths. I still stand behind moving the hangers. It's a win win. I ended up with 3.5" in the rear and 3 up front. Still in the testing stage. Hit me up if you have any questions. It's all fresh in my mind.

p.s. Get perches with three holes if you can. This will allow you to fix your ****ups.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 12:05 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rambo3489 View Post
p.s. Get perches with three holes if you can. This will allow you to fix your ****ups.
Now that's some good info!!
Do you have a write up on this? After Fratis' reply I went out and looked at the shackle hangers to see what would be involved. Just looking at it quickly it looks like I would have to extend the frame rails in front and Im not sure where I would move the rears.
I will do some more searching to see if I can find some ideas.
Sorry, I just saw your build thread. I will check that out.

Last edited by cojab; 07-02-2013 at 12:06 PM.. Reason: additional info
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Unread 07-02-2013, 12:22 PM   #8
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I don't have any real detail in my build thread on moving the hangers. Have to update it some more. It's not too bad tho if you can grind and weld. Yea the front can only move 1.5" max without making big modifications. The rear can go quite a bit. But the tank thing limits that. I just moved my front as far as I could. I notched both the front and rear hangers so they would fit over the body mount tabs.

Another tip when you dimple your tank make SURE you dimple it enough. I cut mine a little close and it rubs if I bottom out the suspension. Another screw up I did was cut the hole in the middle of the skid. Rear diffs are offset a little. So make sure you get that right. I found a real good way to form the poly tank. Get a propane weed burner kit. (Big torch big flame) heat the whole side and it will form perfectly for you. Worked like a charm. (Optional step): Put padding or some type of spacer around the dimple part. This will keep a gap there so when you install the tank it doesn't rub through and leak in a couple hundred miles.
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Unread 07-02-2013, 01:27 PM   #9
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After years with a dimpled tank, I did this before the "ground breaking" thread on pirate, I am now seeing some side effects. The heating and cooling of the plastic will make it a bit more brittle and this is compounded with more years on it. It started leaking a bit and then stopped. Im not sure why it stopped leaking but im sure it can start any time.
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