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Unread 08-08-2013, 11:40 AM   #1
Jeepyj311
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stock dana 30 vs. dana 44 swap

Hey guys I have a couple more questions regarding my build. How capable is a stock dana 30 front (biggest tire size)? For the money it would cost to beef up the dana 30 would that money be better spent on swapping a dana 44 for the front? And lastly If I already have a 4 inch suspension, 1 inch body and 1 /14 inch shackles how tall would that make my jeep if I went spring over? What size tires could I then run with that much lift? Thank yall so much because any input is greatly appreciated.

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Unread 08-08-2013, 11:44 AM   #2
Jeepyj311
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Would the lift plus a spring over...would that make the jeep not streetable anymore
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Unread 08-08-2013, 11:54 AM   #3
GrantYJ
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You're going about this a little bit backwards. First, decide what you want to be able to do with the Jeep. Based on that, determine what size tire you want to be able to run. Everything else will be based on tire size.

30 vs. 44 depends.
First, (again) what size tire do you plan on running? If you're talking about springing over with 4" lift springs plus body and shackle and still asking "how big of a tire can I run", then a 44 isn't going to be nearly enough axle. You'll also be way to short (front to back) to keep your rig even close to stable.
Second, what kind of 44 are you talking about? I wouldn't go through the trouble to swap in a low pinion 44 in lieu of the high pinion 30 that you have. There's just not enough bang for the buck.

You've also asked about the biggest tire you could run on a stock d30. I consider a stock d30 to be just that. An open (no locker) axle with original equipment. If you're just wanting something "big" to drive around, you could probably get around on 37s if you have enough engine to make it move (you're limited on how deep you can go with your gears). If you actually intend to wheel it, lockers on smaller tires will get you much further than huge meats and open diffs. 35s are generally the cut off limit for the d30. It's not just the axle though. you'll run into issues with brakes and steering when you start pushing the tire size up.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 12:13 PM   #4
Jeepyj311
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Thanks for your response. I found a very capable 4x4 shop in my area to do the swap since I haven't learned how to weld and don't know how to set up gears I will let them do it. They guy started asking me a lot of questions that I hadn't thought of before...like spring over or under and what did I want. I originally just wanted to run 35 ltb's but he said its better to set it up the way I want the first time than to spend the money all over again. And I started thinking would a spring over be better?... I could run even bigger tires at that point but to balance everything out with that much lift it sounds like I would be spending a lot more money. So If I just stick with my initial plan which was to run 35 ltbs on moderate Louisiana swamp trails and in my hunting club hog hunting will the dana 30 be sufficient? Or will I need to spend the money on a super dana 30 kit. I though if I kept the dana 30 open and locked the 8.8 with 35's that it should be pretty capable. But the guy also said he would recommend a Detroit tru trac over a locker in the 8.8 because that locker would eat those tires alive on every turn since the jeep is so light. He only recommends lockers on jeeps with 38's or bigger or with tires that are smaller if they are pure trail rigs. what do yall think?
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Unread 08-08-2013, 12:35 PM   #5
Michaelgoesrawr
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Depends on how much money you have and are willing to spend.

Personally, I would go selectable lockers front and rear in a D30 and 8.8. Upgrade the shafts and run the 35's you want. You'll always be able to get the hog to the pit that way.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 12:40 PM   #6
GrantYJ
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I'd think that an open 30 would be fine with 35s for the use that you describe. If you're not crawling and will be encountering more mud, I'd just get an 8.8 that had limited slip and have him "go through" it prior to install (you can put in new clutch packs). I've been trying to locate a 4.10 LS 8.8 for a while (I'm not in a hurry on mine) and the vast majority of Explorer axles that I've run across were 3.73 with LS. At that point, you may still have to regear, but you can get your LS redone far cheaper than the cost of a locker. A LS will be basically transparent on the road, but will help you out in mud (also nice in the snow ...lockers are not nice in the snow). Lockers are only really needed if you're pulling wheels off the ground.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 06:19 PM   #7
Joe Dillard
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepyj311 View Post
I found a very capable 4x4 shop in my area to do the swap <snip> But the guy also said he would recommend a Detroit tru trac over a locker in the 8.8 because that locker would eat those tires alive on every turn since the jeep is so light. He only recommends lockers on jeeps with 38's or bigger or with tires that are smaller if they are pure trail rigs. what do yall think?
I would be looking for a shop with far more experience.

If I heard a shop tell me things like that - I'd never return.
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Unread 08-08-2013, 09:18 PM   #8
GrantYJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Dillard View Post
I would be looking for a shop with far more experience.

If I heard a shop tell me things like that - I'd never return.
I have to admit, when he mentioned that lockers were only needed when you passed a certain tire size ...well, yeah, that's pretty messed up logic. The argument can be made that a locker is technically harder on tires, but I'd be more concerned about driving characteristics. It's nothing that you can't learn to deal with, but there's a learning curve.
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Unread 08-09-2013, 08:08 AM   #9
BlueRubiconrich
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You can run a locker with any size tire.Ex: XJ say you can only run 31" tires
well still add a locker it will make the Jeep much more capable.

Dana 30 VS Dana 44

I'd go with a Dana 44 biger ring and pinion
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Unread 08-09-2013, 01:47 PM   #10
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If a had an empty HP 30 and HP44 housing id build the 44. If i just had the money and no housing, id buy everything from an axle manufacturer. Its making less and less economic sense to scrounge the junkyards these days. It used to be you would find an assembly and run it pretty much the way it was. These days with larger tire sizes common and a strong aftermarket support in locker and ratio options, no one simply swaps in the junkyard find. A 44/44 or 44/60 used to be pulled to run 33s. Now people want to build 44s for 37"+ tires. Couple this with the trend towards pretty hardcore concepts of offroading and this forces a complete rebuild with parts that will survive. Doesnt make much sense to search many junkyards to find a HP44 only to gut it and throw everything away but the housing. The last axle i built was a 9" front. i got the housing for $100. This was not smart. On retrospect i would gladly pay 500-1000 for a custom built housing that is new and guaranteed straight. Ive got $1K shafts sitting in a housing of unknown origin. The cost to rework it and get inner C's turned to fit itself offsets the cost. If i were looking for an upgrade for a HP30 id consider the Currie HP 8.8 with 44 outers. Really not that pricey in the long run. To me it makes no sense to gut a HP30 to fill it with expensive parts saving only the housing simply because it can stay under the jeep. In the end its still a 30 and you could have spent close to the same amount minus the housing on something better.
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Unread 08-10-2013, 01:47 PM   #11
XJ93
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You mentioned streetable. I assume you mean drivability on road and road legal? Drivability would all depend on how well you do the SOA and if you put quality and function before cost. Street legal on the other hand you will want to check your state laws regarding minimum bumper height. In MI it's 22" measured to the highest point of the bottom edge of the bumper. That limits what people can legally do to lift the vehicle. Doesn't stop people from rolling around in death machines but the laws are there.
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Unread 08-10-2013, 02:25 PM   #12
jsawduste
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Maybe read this
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-...new-angle.html

Lots of good information
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Unread 08-11-2013, 11:33 AM   #13
Jeepyj311
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Thank you so much guys this is awesome feedback with some great links!
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Unread 08-11-2013, 08:25 PM   #14
navman
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My concern would be the fact your running mud, the ring gear of a d30 is awfully small to take high shock loads. If you were on rock things are much more in your control but in mud tire speed is everything. There are a lot of things you can do to make a d30 survive but wheeling with finesse is part of that combination.
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