Stiff Shifter - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 67 Old 06-05-2013, 06:16 PM
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
I agree with you. Where did the fluid go to? Dunno... Maybe theres a leak in the line near the master but I haven't seen any leakage on the ground. So I'll try to get the bleeder to turn and bleed the line, if there is any air in there at this point.

Why would you leave it in neutral at a light? I hope I don't have to pull the tranny. I really can't afford it right now, financially or time wise.

At this point if alls "good", I'll ride it as is after I drain and replenish some fluids. If the clutch goes then so be it and I'll deal with it then. I belong to a motor club that has been pretty good, so I know if I need a tow around here I'll be ok.

First things first, before I start county my eggs, I need to bleed my line first.
With a hydraulic clutch, if you loose pressure, the clutch engages. So if you have it in gear and the hydros fail, such as this possible leak you might have. It will lurch as it engages, noting that it is extremely hard to pull it out of gear when this happens. I know as mine did this. That's why I have made it a habit to not leave it in gear when stopped at a light. Just a precaution.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.


/l ,[____],
l----L-[]lllllll[]-
()_)-()_)--o)_)

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post #47 of 67 Old 06-05-2013, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbossd1030

With a hydraulic clutch, if you loose pressure, the clutch engages. So if you have it in gear and the hydros fail, such as this possible leak you might have. It will lurch as it engages, noting that it is extremely hard to pull it out of gear when this happens. I know as mine did this. That's why I have made it a habit to not leave it in gear when stopped at a light. Just a precaution.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.
Wow! Great to know. I will definitely do that.
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post #48 of 67 Old 06-06-2013, 11:55 AM
Mr.ThunderMakeR
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Its also really hard on the clutch and hydraulic components keeping the pedal pressed in the whole time you are at a stoplight. That may have something to do with your problems.

Do you keep your hand on the shifter all the time as well? Don't do that either, you can wear out the synchros and shift gates if you are applying pressure on the shifter without realizing it. Basically you should never touch the clutch pedal or shifter unless you are actually switching gears, or will be within the next few seconds.

- '91 Jeep Wrangler YJ, 4" lift with 33" BFG KM2's, 1" body lift, NV3550 swap, NP241OR Rubicon TCase w/ Novak Cable Shifter, Monstalined Tub
- '09 Mazda RX-8 R3
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post #49 of 67 Old 06-06-2013, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ThunderMakeR
Its also really hard on the clutch and hydraulic components keeping the pedal pressed in the whole time you are at a stoplight. That may have something to do with your problems.

Do you keep your hand on the shifter all the time as well? Don't do that either, you can wear out the synchros and shift gates if you are applying pressure on the shifter without realizing it. Basically you should never touch the clutch pedal or shifter unless you are actually switching gears, or will be within the next few seconds.
I wasn't aware of that. Although I don't always have the clutch pushed in or my hand on the shifter, that's still good to know. Thanks.
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post #50 of 67 Old 06-10-2013, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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I finally got the bleeder to turn. After PB Blaster and some heat for about 3 days it finally moved. I decided to take it off because fluid was coming out the back end (where it was connected) and figured the other end was clogged. It's pretty beat up and rusted. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement bleeder valve? I looked on eBay and other places and the only thing I can find is bleeder valves for brakes, which are not the same thing. I'd rather hold off on buying the clutch control unit, which has the valve on it.
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post #51 of 67 Old 06-19-2013, 05:04 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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After much time and not being able to find a bleeder valve, I bit the bullet and bought a slave cylinder. I took the bleeder valve off to see if I could out it on the existing control unit in hopes that I wouldn't have to drop the trans. Unfortunately, I cannot for the life of me get the bleeder screw to turn. In fact, I think
I'm starting to smooth out the edges of the screw. It's a brand spanking new bleeder valve/ screw and it won't turn. I wanted to loosen the screw up first to save me some hassle. Any thoughts? I've PB blasted it, hit it with some liquid wrench, and cranked down on it as much as I could. No go so far.
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post #52 of 67 Old 06-20-2013, 02:49 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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I'm a little embarrassed to ask this but its better than screwing it up. When I bleed the line, do I turn the valve (the part attached to the bleed line) or the bleeder screw. I would think the screw. Unfortunately, I am trying so hard to turn it that I'm worried that I'm going to rip it right off. It is not turning at all and shows no signs it will. This is a new item. It should not be this hard to turn. I'm cranking down on it so hard that I'm starting to round out the edges of the screw.
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post #53 of 67 Old 06-20-2013, 02:56 PM
Old4X
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Are you using a 6 point socket to turn it. If not, use one

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #54 of 67 Old 06-20-2013, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old4X View Post
Are you using a 6 point socket to turn it. If not, use one
Am I supposed to turn the bleeder screw or the entire valve? In the photo, the bleeder screw is the smaller portion with the spout. My Chilton's manual says to "loosen the bleeder screw". Do they make a six point socket that will fit something that small?
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post #55 of 67 Old 06-20-2013, 03:24 PM
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC

Am I supposed to turn the bleeder screw or the entire valve? In the photo, the bleeder screw is the smaller portion with the spout. My Chilton's manual says to "loosen the bleeder screw". Do they make a six point socket that will fit something that small?
Yeah turn the bleeder screw. I think it's a 5/16" or a 1/4" I can't exactly remember now. But yes they make a 6 point that small. I have ha them be pretty tight at first, but make sure you are using the right size tool for it.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.

/l ,[____],
l----L-[]lllllll[]-
()_)-()_)--o)_)

OFFICIAL JEEPER
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I am on channel 33.

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post #56 of 67 Old 06-20-2013, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Sorry. That was a very dumb question. Of course they make them that small. I went out to my garage, looked at my sockets and found a six point 1/4 " that did the job.

Even after a couple of years of working on my Jeep, I still do things and think like a noob would.
: P
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post #57 of 67 Old 06-20-2013, 03:31 PM
Old4X
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On any hyd part use only 6 point sockets or 6 point box wrenches. On lines where you can't use a box end wrench, use a line wrench (it looks like a 6 point box end wrench with a gap cut in one flat to get around the brake line.

The metal on hyd fittings is very soft, you will quickly ruin one with something like an open end wrench and many times even a 12 pt socket/wrench.

418 miles on 19 gallons of gas. Can't beat the BBD !
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post #58 of 67 Old 06-20-2013, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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Great info Old4X. Thanks.
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post #59 of 67 Old 06-22-2013, 10:43 PM Thread Starter
CBinDC
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I guess you could say I had a bad night. I bled the clutch line, at least I think I did a sufficient job, and took it out for spin. The clutch pedal had great resistance and the shifter moved from gear to gear nicely. Well, 20 miles later it became more difficult to put it in gear, almost so bad that I didn't think I'd make it back to my house. At one point, I couldn't get it into gear and I had to pull over. After pumping the clutch pedal multiple times, I was able to get it in gear and limp home in 2nd gear. One thing that happened that was odd (only because I'm a newb), the jeep would slowly move forward when I was trying to force it in gear, although I was unable to get it in. The engine also died when I had to come to a stop. Once this happened, I couldn't get the engine to turn over until I took it back out of gear. Every time I turned the key, it would leap forward as if I was starting the engine with it in gear but without the clutch pedal depressed.

HELP!!
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post #60 of 67 Old 06-22-2013, 11:43 PM
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
I guess you could say I had a bad night. I bled the clutch line, at least I think I did a sufficient job, and took it out for spin. The clutch pedal had great resistance and the shifter moved from gear to gear nicely. Well, 20 miles later it became more difficult to put it in gear, almost so bad that I didn't think I'd make it back to my house. At one point, I couldn't get it into gear and I had to pull over. After pumping the clutch pedal multiple times, I was able to get it in gear and limp home in 2nd gear. One thing that happened that was odd (only because I'm a newb), the jeep would slowly move forward when I was trying to force it in gear, although I was unable to get it in. The engine also died when I had to come to a stop. Once this happened, I couldn't get the engine to turn over until I took it back out of gear. Every time I turned the key, it would leap forward as if I was starting the engine with it in gear but without the clutch pedal depressed.

HELP!!
Well now that you did the slave, it's time for the master. Standard symptoms of a bad master. 30 min job.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.

/l ,[____],
l----L-[]lllllll[]-
()_)-()_)--o)_)

OFFICIAL JEEPER
Any Jeepers in Edmonton, AB
I am on channel 33.

I live, I ride, I am JEEP.
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