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Unread 06-05-2013, 06:55 AM   #31
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC

I hear what you are saying. I normally would not shy away from doing the work myself but this may be too big a job for me to handle. 1) I don't have a completely level driveway and I'm worried about getting crushed, 2) my 24 yo transmission has never been taken off and the bolts holding it up will be VERY difficult to deal with. I would rather have someone else deal with it. It would be much easier to loosen the bolts if the Jeep is on a lift.

Trying to loosen the bolts on the insulator plate (where the clutch master cylinder line goes in), while the jeep is on jacks, is damn near impossible. I can't get a good angle on them. I've PB blasted and torched the bolts but they ain't moving.

On the subject of tranny lifts, the reviews for the cheaper ones say they are very rickety. Just for peace of mind, I'd rather purchase the more expensive one. Tell me if I'm wrong.
The bolts holding the tranny to the engine are the ones on the bell housing. All you have to do is remove those. Remove shifters, driveshafts and yank it out. The other bolts can then be removed once the tranny is out, this will allow you to have a good angle and get more torque on them.
As for a rickety jack, I did mine with two by fours and jack stands. That was rickety. A cheap jack will work fine, I can lift my tranny off the floor no problems (ax-15). This isn't a difficult job
I am sure in the 24 years that tranny has been off at least once. Unless you bought it new, you have no way or telling. Clutches don't last forever.
Again, this job is not near as bad as it sounds. If you have an air compressor and an impact you are laughing. I did mine without an impact gun. Took me about 8 hours, that was stopping and going to town three times or so, that took about two hours plus a little.
As long as you secure the jeep properly, getting crushed wont happen.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.

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Unread 06-05-2013, 07:57 AM   #32
CBinDC
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8 hours?! How do you factor in a b***** wife? 2 weeks? 3 weeks? That alone may be worth paying someone else to do it. : (
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Unread 06-05-2013, 08:01 AM   #33
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
8 hours?! How do you factor in a b***** wife? 2 weeks? 3 weeks? That alone may be worth paying someone else to do it. : (
This is true... I was single when I did mine, I can't imagine the pita she would be if I tried that now. But either way. It'll cost you maybe 400 bucks doing it yourself + beer. If you take it in, here they wanted 840 to do it not including parts. Now imagine dealer priced parts. I couldn't have them do it, my morals wouldn't let me.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 08:51 AM   #34
CBinDC
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So I just want to make sure my slave cylinder needs to be replaced. My clutch seems fine. It is not loose or tight. It feels just right. Only until a couple days ago did I have trouble getting my shifter in gear. I was driving to the beer store (very important) and on the way there the shifter was fine. On the way back, I wasn't sure I'd make it back. The shifter just did not want to go into gear.
When I got home, I turned the engine off and the shifter suddenly was moving fine.

When I looked at the clutch master cylinder reservoir (a couple days ago) the fluid was very low. I've since refilled it because I was going to bleed the line. I tried to turn the bleed screw but it so rusted I couldn't get it to turn. In the meantime, since I didn't know I needed two wrenches (one to hold the line and the other to turn the screw), I think I ended up screwing up the line. The rubber gasket is all jacked up now. I was hoping to get the plate off so I could try to replace the gasket. But the screws on the plate are not turning.

I looked in the reservoir yesterday and it has not gone down. Could this mean there is no leak or that there is air trapped in the line, preventing the fluid from moving?


From what I'm describing, are these indications that the slave cylinder is bad? I have not seen any pools of liquid on the driveway either. Could it be leaking internally?

I just want to make sure what is really going on before I pull the trans or pay someone else to do it.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 10:30 AM   #35
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
So I just want to make sure my slave cylinder needs to be replaced. My clutch seems fine. It is not loose or tight. It feels just right. Only until a couple days ago did I have trouble getting my shifter in gear. I was driving to the beer store (very important) and on the way there the shifter was fine. On the way back, I wasn't sure I'd make it back. The shifter just did not want to go into gear.
When I got home, I turned the engine off and the shifter suddenly was moving fine.

When I looked at the clutch master cylinder reservoir (a couple days ago) the fluid was very low. I've since refilled it because I was going to bleed the line. I tried to turn the bleed screw but it so rusted I couldn't get it to turn. In the meantime, since I didn't know I needed two wrenches (one to hold the line and the other to turn the screw), I think I ended up screwing up the line. The rubber gasket is all jacked up now. I was hoping to get the plate off so I could try to replace the gasket. But the screws on the plate are not turning.

I looked in the reservoir yesterday and it has not gone down. Could this mean there is no leak or that there is air trapped in the line, preventing the fluid from moving?

From what I'm describing, are these indications that the slave cylinder is bad? I have not seen any pools of liquid on the driveway either. Could it be leaking internally?

I just want to make sure what is really going on before I pull the trans or pay someone else to do it.
Okay here is a good way to know if the sc or mc is shot. When you are stopped pump the clutch and see if it will go into gear then. What you are doing is building up pressure in the system by doing this. If it does go into gear now, then your cylinder is shot. I suggest changing both unless you did the master recently. The system doesn't always leak when there is a problem. Think of it like a needle from the doctor. It has a rod and a rubber seal, if that seal breaks down like they do, fluid can than pass by it causing a pressure loss. It doesn't always leak out as there is another seal on the outside of the cylinder, so that keeps it all inside.
Now seeing as how you jacked up the bleeder, it will have to be changed out now. So either way, the slave has to be replaced now, you tied your hands if you will. When you buy the slave cylinder do yourself a favour and buy the kit, slave cylinder and master cylinder together.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:13 AM   #36
caoboy
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You'll also want to change your trans fluid, but I believe that will need to be done anyways since you are dropping the trans, it will need to be drained.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:21 AM   #37
Mr.ThunderMakeR
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Make sure you get it properly bled before deciding to do anything else. PB Blaster is your friend, just keep soaking the bleed screw every day until you can break it loose. Make sure you bleed it right, air in the line is a no-go. This very well could be your problem, the fluid level in that first pic you posted looked pretty low. You could have sucked some air into the line that way.

How sure are you that you jacked up the bleeder line? Don't worry about that bushing that holds the line in place, mine was gone for years. The fluid level hasn't gone down in the MC so at least you know you don't have a leak.

If you do decide to replace the slave cylinder, I would look into doing an external slave swap. Though I'm not sure if that is an option with the BA-10.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:54 AM   #38
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.ThunderMakeR
Make sure you get it properly bled before deciding to do anything else. PB Blaster is your friend, just keep soaking the bleed screw every day until you can break it loose. Make sure you bleed it right, air in the line is a no-go. This very well could be your problem, the fluid level in that first pic you posted looked pretty low. You could have sucked some air into the line that way.

How sure are you that you jacked up the bleeder line? Don't worry about that bushing that holds the line in place, mine was gone for years. The fluid level hasn't gone down in the MC so at least you know you don't have a leak.

If you do decide to replace the slave cylinder, I would look into doing an external slave swap. Though I'm not sure if that is an option with the BA-10.
Well I don't know that I screwed the line up. It's just that I didn't use another wrench to hold the linen place when I was trying to turn the bleeder. Subsequently, it looks like I twisted the line a bit but I don't think I snapped the line. However, I can't see beyond the bushing.

I'll do what you suggest. I'll keep spraying it with PB blaster for a while and see what happens.

I haven't read anywhere that I can do an external slave on the BA-10. If I could, I would do that.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 11:57 AM   #39
Mr.ThunderMakeR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC View Post
Well I don't know that I screwed the line up. It's just that I didn't use another wrench to hold the linen place when I was trying to turn the bleeder. Subsequently, it looks like I twisted the line a bit but I don't think I snapped the line. However, I can't see beyond the bushing.

I'll do what you suggest. I'll keep spraying it with PB blaster for a while and see what happens.

I haven't read anywhere that I can do an external slave on the BA-10. If I could, I would do that.
Yeah after doing a quick search it doesn't look like an external slave swap is possible.

There is some play in that bleed line so unless you really twisted it up I doubt you damaged it. If you did crack it you would probably be losing fluid and the level in the MC would drop.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 01:07 PM   #40
CBinDC
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Two days after I filled the MC, its still full and the clutch feels normal.
clutch-master-cylinder-full.jpg  
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Unread 06-05-2013, 01:09 PM   #41
CBinDC
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I don't know why my photos often come out sideways. When I load them they are upright.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 03:22 PM   #42
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
Two days after I filled the MC, its still full and the clutch feels normal.
So what is it doing now? Is you problem gone?

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 03:35 PM   #43
CBinDC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbossd1030

So what is it doing now? Is you problem gone?

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.
The reservoir is still full. The clutch feels normal. The shifter goes into gear ok. There was a little snag in 5th but nothing much. As for now, I'm blasting the bleeder with PB and waiting to blast it some more.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 05:35 PM   #44
bigbossd1030
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC

The reservoir is still full. The clutch feels normal. The shifter goes into gear ok. There was a little snag in 5th but nothing much. As for now, I'm blasting the bleeder with PB and waiting to blast it some more.
If your problem seems like it has gone away, it's possible that it was just low on fluid, but being low it should have sucked in air. Which would have caused your issue. I suppose the air could have worked its way out. But if it seems to be okay, then right on. But I would be careful not to leave it in gear at lights and remember that it might end up going bad for good the next time. Personally... I would change it out. Just for the fact that the bleeder is stuck, you may have twisted it, that could have weakened it, the fluid was low to begin with (where did it go?). All of this just disappearing, that is way to easy. That word doesn't come in the jeep vocabulary. This is just my opinion, others may think different, you might as well. But as long as you take into consideration how weird this is to just vanish.

Sent from my iPhone, probably because I am bored at work.
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Unread 06-05-2013, 06:09 PM   #45
CBinDC
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I agree with you. Where did the fluid go to? Dunno... Maybe theres a leak in the line near the master but I haven't seen any leakage on the ground. So I'll try to get the bleeder to turn and bleed the line, if there is any air in there at this point.

Why would you leave it in neutral at a light? I hope I don't have to pull the tranny. I really can't afford it right now, financially or time wise.

At this point if alls "good", I'll ride it as is after I drain and replenish some fluids. If the clutch goes then so be it and I'll deal with it then. I belong to a motor club that has been pretty good, so I know if I need a tow around here I'll be ok.

First things first, before I start county my eggs, I need to bleed my line first.
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