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post #16 of 67 Old 06-02-2013, 06:57 AM
Louie4
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That brake fluid looks like molasses. If you get the urge, maybe change it out for some fresh DOT 3.


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post #17 of 67 Old 06-02-2013, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Just to be clear, am i putting DOT 3 brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir AND the clutch master cylinder reservoir?
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post #18 of 67 Old 06-02-2013, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by CBinDC View Post
Just to be clear, am i putting DOT 3 brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir AND the clutch master cylinder reservoir?
Yes

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post #19 of 67 Old 06-02-2013, 08:34 AM
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Yes
x2.

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post #20 of 67 Old 06-02-2013, 10:42 AM
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That brake fluid looks like molasses. If you get the urge, maybe change it out for some fresh DOT 3.
What would be the best way to go about this? Start on the back passenger side and let the brakes bleed out until fresh fluid starts flowing?
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post #21 of 67 Old 06-02-2013, 10:55 AM
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What would be the best way to go about this? Start on the back passenger side and let the brakes bleed out until fresh fluid starts flowing?
I don't know of any perfect method. I would siphon off the old fluid in the reservoir and then add fresh and bleed from the furthest wheel until it was clean. Then I would bleed all the other wheels.

That's what I would do at least.

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post #22 of 67 Old 06-02-2013, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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How much fluid does it take to do the brakes?
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post #23 of 67 Old 06-03-2013, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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So I have a couple questions. Does someone have to hold the clutch in the entire time I turn the fitting? Can they let up from time to time?

Also, do I turn the top fitting?

image-1843335211.jpg

I did turn that and I couldn't really tell but it sort of appeared that the line itself was twisting. However, when I ran my finger along the line, I found no rippling/ twisting in the line.

Another note, I was able to easily move the line in and out of the trans. It didn't seem like it should do that. If the line is busted, broken, kinked, it looks like that would a major hassle to fix.

Out of fear of stripping the fitting, I stopped and applied a dose of PB blaster. I'll let it sit and apply some more later. Any more advice would be helpful. Thanks.

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post #24 of 67 Old 06-04-2013, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Today I took a closer look where the line goes into the transmission. This is why it moved around so easily the other day:

image-1819310160.jpg

It looks like it needs to be replaced. What do I need to do to fix this? What part(s) do I need? Is this something I can do (newb) myself or do I need to outsource?
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post #25 of 67 Old 06-04-2013, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone out there?
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post #26 of 67 Old 06-04-2013, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
Anyone out there?
If i remember right mine moves too but I don't know what it looks like. To bleed the clutch you need two wrenches. One to hold the stationary line and the other to turn the screw.

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post #27 of 67 Old 06-04-2013, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBinDC
Anyone out there?
You might be looking at a new internal slave cylinder. Unfortunately it's an internal, you have to drop the transmission in order to change it.

I agree with all that has been said. You should change the brake fluid. Suck out all the old fluid and add new stuff. Then start the bleeding process. A one litre bottle should do ya, I always have two just incase I run into any problems along the way.
When you bleed the clutch there are a few ways of doing it.
The most common is the same way you do your brakes. Add fluid, pump pedal 3-5 times, hold pedal down, open bleeder nipple, close nipple when pressure slows, release pedal and pump again. Repeat until no bubbles. Making sure you keep an eye on the fluid level.

I you have a garage and basic tools, such as sockets and wrenches. I suggest a pilot bearing puller and a jug of varsol with a brush for cleaning. Then brake clean to get the varsol film off. It will take a day to do this job. Buy a Haynes manual and get a buddy who has a free day and buy a case of beer. It's not "hard" just takes patience is all. A transmission jack is your friend, not needed, I did mine with a couple two by fours and jack stands and a jack. But I wish I had a tranny jack.

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post #28 of 67 Old 06-04-2013, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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A decent trans lift from Harbor freight is around $300. How much would it cost to outsource this to a mechanic?
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post #29 of 67 Old 06-04-2013, 11:00 PM
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A decent trans lift from Harbor freight is around $300. How much would it cost to outsource this to a mechanic?
A very capable tranny jack from them runs $90 full price. I think I paid 50 for it on sale many years ago. You don't need the $300 dollar model. These transmissions a very light. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
Clutch job costs vary wildly, but best guess on average would be $800 give or take a few bills depending on locale and misc. You can likely do it yourself for less than half including parts and the HF jack. Call around though for quotes. Usually all the motivation I every needed to do my own work was the quote from someone else wanting to do it for me.
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post #30 of 67 Old 06-05-2013, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idaholtby

A very capable tranny jack from them runs $90 full price. I think I paid 50 for it on sale many years ago. You don't need the $300 dollar model. These transmissions a very light. http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html
Clutch job costs vary wildly, but best guess on average would be $800 give or take a few bills depending on locale and misc. You can likely do it yourself for less than half including parts and the HF jack. Call around though for quotes. Usually all the motivation I every needed to do my own work was the quote from someone else wanting to do it for me.
I hear what you are saying. I normally would not shy away from doing the work myself but this may be too big a job for me to handle. 1) I don't have a completely level driveway and I'm worried about getting crushed, 2) my 24 yo transmission has never been taken off and the bolts holding it up will be VERY difficult to deal with. I would rather have someone else deal with it. It would be much easier to loosen the bolts if the Jeep is on a lift.

Trying to loosen the bolts on the insulator plate (where the clutch master cylinder line goes in), while the jeep is on jacks, is damn near impossible. I can't get a good angle on them. I've PB blasted and torched the bolts but they ain't moving.

On the subject of tranny lifts, the reviews for the cheaper ones say they are very rickety. Just for peace of mind, I'd rather purchase the more expensive one. Tell me if I'm wrong.
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