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Unread 05-09-2014, 09:23 AM   #1
ainetsc
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1992 YJ Wrangler 
 
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stiff gear change in rebuilt AX 15 tranny 92YJ

I just replaced my AX15 with a rebuilt transmission (commercial rebuilder) and also the clutch.

Issue I have is shifting from 1st to 2nd is stiff and it's the same for 3rd to 2nd, 3rd to 4th and 5th to 4th, shifting from to 1,3 and 5 and reverse is perfect.
Any idea's as to why?? the rebuilder told me it was the clutch but that would affect all gears??? right?

It's a stock 4.0 no lift 1992 YJ.
Thanks for any help you can offer.

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Unread 05-09-2014, 01:30 PM   #2
Opihi59
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What type oil are you using in the tranny?
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Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
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Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
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You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 05-09-2014, 02:04 PM   #3
ainetsc
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10/30 engine oil, update to this, I had it checked and the clutch and synchros appear to be ok, the garage said the shift rails may be bent? if you wiggle the lever between say 3rd and 4th it goes in easy but if you try to go straight in it's stiff????????
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Unread 05-09-2014, 02:13 PM   #4
Opihi59
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So long as it isn't synthetic 10W 30. Too slippery to allow the synchros to "bed in" and provide appropriate hub braking action. I am sorta skeptical about the stiff shifting due to bent rails. There would have had to have been a lot of carnage in there to have had that happen to a degree where you would have that much effect, and it would have been apparent to a rebuilder. I merely roll mine across a flat surface to see if they wobble-like my granite kitchen countertop........wife loves that so I wait til she's not looking.
So how about driving it, cautiously shifting for a few hundred miles or so and see how it starts acting. It just may have to break in some.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 05-09-2014, 02:23 PM   #5
ainetsc
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using regular 10/30 engine oil - not synthetic, I agree on the bent rails as well as this company rebuilds them all the time and they apparently dyno test every unit.I have put about 150 miles on it this week so maybe a few more to see if it "loosens up" this was not my old unit rebuilt but a unit rebuilt in there factory - either way you are right they should see if the rails were bent.
Thanks for your advise. Happy Wife = Happy life - right!
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Unread 05-09-2014, 04:26 PM   #6
Old4X
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The factory maint manual does state that it will be stiff to shift initially, but should break in.

If not better in a tank of gas, it may need another looksee
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Unread 05-09-2014, 06:11 PM   #7
Opihi59
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Wait a sec, did they replace THIS piece? While some may not feel it has any benefit, it generally is not the case. Just make sure you have this part installed, new. And add that to the previous recommendations.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian4.2 View Post
We will be going Metric every inch of the way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 40dog View Post
yes I'm a some guy and have always put gasket sealer on my surfaces before mating
Quote:
Originally Posted by Virjeep View Post
You should go to Pirate. I hear they are real smart over there. You'd fit right in.
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Unread 05-12-2014, 02:54 PM   #8
ainetsc
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Yes the company who rebuilds the box also supplies a new seal as well which was installed, update after the weekend is the 3rd to 4th gear change is now shifting fine it's just stiff going into 2nd now so hopefully it just needs breaking in some more - thanks and will keep you posted.
Now onto the front crank seal - do I really need to take the rad out!!!!!!!!!!!
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Unread 05-12-2014, 07:09 PM   #9
Old4X
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ainetsc View Post
Now onto the front crank seal - do I really need to take the rad out!!!!!!!!!!!

Can you get the harmonic balancer puller to work with the rad in place?

It is only 4 bolts holding the rad and a couple hoses, IIRC, I pulled mine when I did my timing chain.

BTW, check the timing chain slack while the cover is off, very easy to do if you are in there already.
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