Steering column ignition key switch removal - JeepForum.com
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post #1 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
mikwallace
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Steering column ignition key switch removal

I'm taking the steering column apart and have hit dead end. Several problems:
1. Excess play in tilt column
2. Ignition switch extremely hard to turn
3. Turn signal/wiper switch lever is missing.

I've taken it apart as far as I can and cannot get the "Star" looking plate off. Is there a trick? Or is it just stuck?

img_6529.jpg


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post #2 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 05:50 PM
rubisean
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The tool is called a lock plate depresser.

You can remove the snap r8ng without it though

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post #3 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 05:51 PM
baritone_mike
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Did you compress the lock plate (star looking plate) and remove the little clip holding it on? If not they do sell lock plate removal tools, just pretend your Jeep is actually a GM product.


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post #4 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 05:54 PM
danno627
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This video is very helpful. The only difference should be the ignition cylinder removal. Mine had a spring that needed to be depressed instead of a set screw.
https://youtu.be/RQ-koHkpECI

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post #5 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 05:55 PM
rubisean
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If the tilt support is loose you will need a pivot pin removal tool as well to gain access to the inverted torx that need to be tightened

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post #6 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
mikwallace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubisean View Post
The tool is called a lock plate depresser.

You can remove the snap r8ng without it though

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Got it! Thanks, now on to the rest of the dissembly. I'll watch the videos too, thanks!!


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post #7 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 06:40 PM
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If you PM me your address I'll send you a PDF with an entire breakdown.

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post #8 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
mikwallace
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Steering column ignition key switch removal

Well I have it disassembled to the point of now needing special tool to remove pivot pins/bolts.
1. Ball bearings were shot, one even not in race but fell down to knuckle joint - so, new bearings required.
2. Multifunction switch has plastic piece from i don't know where that was slipping around inside - picture attached- where does it fit?
3. Reverse torx are loose but have to remove pivot pins - love those special tools!


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post #9 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
mikwallace
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
We'll have it disassembled to the point of now needing special tool to remove pivot pins/bolts.
1. Ball bearings were shot, one even not in race but fell down to knuckle joint - so, new bearings required.
2. Multifunction switch has plastic piece from u don't know where that was slipping around inside - picture attached- where does it fit?
3. Reverse tire are loose but have to remove pivot pins - love those special tools!


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img_6530.jpgimg_6531.jpgimg_6532.jpgimg_6533.jpg



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post #10 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 07:20 PM
rubisean
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
The plastic part is the dimmer switch actuator.

It fits on the nub of the square end cap, it slides back and forth on the nub.

It is not necessary to pull the pivot pins, you can easily access 3 of the inverted torx (if you don't have the torx a 6 point 1/4 in socket will work fine.

I have rebuilt more than 20,000 gm steering columns 8n the late 80's and 90's.

If you need some small internal parts I probably have what you need.

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post #11 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubisean View Post
The plastic part is the dimmer switch actuator.

It fits on the nub of the square end cap, it slides back and forth on the nub.

It is not necessary to pull the pivot pins, you can easily access 3 of the inverted torx (if you don't have the torx a 6 point 1/4 in socket will work fine.

I have rebuilt more than 20,000 gm steering columns 8n the late 80's and 90's.

If you need some small internal parts I probably have what you need.

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Thanks for the great info! Will be gone a few days, won't get back on the jeep till next weekend. But will keep your info if parts are needed.


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post #12 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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There was so much dirt, sand, grit inside I'm surprised it worked at all. The turn signal/wiper lever was not on the vehicle when I bought it. How do I know if it's got delayed wipers or not? Just so I'm sure I get the correct lever. I pretty sure it doesn't have cruise.


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post #13 of 23 Old 08-26-2017, 10:44 PM
project_mercy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikwallace View Post
There was so much dirt, sand, grit inside I'm surprised it worked at all. The turn signal/wiper lever was not on the vehicle when I bought it. How do I know if it's got delayed wipers or not? Just so I'm sure I get the correct lever. I pretty sure it doesn't have cruise.
The wiper switch has a big ribbon cable on it that goes down the column and comes out in the middle. If you have intermittent wipers, this is connected to an intermittent wiper module, which then connects to the harness. Otherwise, it just plugs into the harness. The module looks like this: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/i.../#post13036674

Also, if you have the column apart, the intermittent wiper switch has considerably more wires than the standard switch

Standard (non-intermittent) 5-wire switch (some some of the contacts are blank)


Intermittent switch has a wire for every contact

With your help I will resist the urge to buy a chrome grill guard for yet another day.
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post #14 of 23 Old 09-05-2017, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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I returned from vacation to find the special tools I ordered waiting at the front door!

As it turned out, I did have to order the special tool to remove the pivot pins. The upper bearing had ball bearings that fell out of the race and into the housing. Fortunately, they didn't fall down into the columns housing.

I've ordered the parts I could find on-line, but still haven't found the parts for the gear shift lever I need. I'll PM you Rubisean for those parts.

Thanks
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post #15 of 23 Old 09-05-2017, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
mikwallace
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Here's a pic of the upper column shaft. I've ordered the repair kit which includes both bearings for the upper shaft. Does the race in the closeup pic have to come off or is it machined into the shaft?

img_6562.jpg
img_6563.jpg


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