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Unread 02-27-2014, 11:57 PM   #1
zte87
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IF you had to choose between the more cross over steering v setup and the rr hysteer which would go with and why? I plan on ordering steering in the morning and could use the input! Sent from my iPad using JeepForum

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Unread 02-28-2014, 12:22 AM   #2
Overhead
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I run this with a flipped tie rod. it's Stupid strong, off the shelf components, and easy to find spares http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ds_p_1338.html


Between your two choices I say for M.O.R.E. or Ballistic.
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Unread 02-28-2014, 05:25 AM   #3
zte87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overhead View Post
I run this with a flipped tie rod. it's Stupid strong, off the shelf components, and easy to find spares http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ds_p_1338.html

Between your two choices I say for M.O.R.E. or Ballistic.
I am already running a otk gm 1 ton setup but have plans to go a soa some day and will need the clearance for the new front 44.....
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93 jeep yj bds 5 inch springs 5/8 boom shackles in the rear, locked front and rear dana 44/60 with front and rear chromoly shafts full cloak armor and 40 inch toyo's
january 2013 yjotm winner!
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94 jeep zj bb lift, 31-10.50-15 toyo at2s, magnaflow exhaust!
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Unread 02-28-2014, 07:03 AM   #4
Bong_Holyeo
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I did cross over steering with my SOA by using WJ knuckles. The big brakes are a plus too.





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Unread 03-03-2014, 04:59 AM   #5
94SaharaGa
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Hey ZTE87 could you post some pics of your current setup. I finished building my 1 ton tre setup this past weekend and went otk. The tierod clears the diff cover but hits the factory stabilizer mount before reaching full lock. Did you have to cut that mount off the axle. Thanks
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Unread 03-03-2014, 05:27 AM   #6
94SaharaGa
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Scrolled through your build thread and found my answer and your pics on page 98. Thanks
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Unread 03-03-2014, 06:57 AM   #7
zte87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SaharaGa
Hey ZTE87 could you post some pics of your current setup. I finished building my 1 ton tre setup this past weekend and went otk. The tierod clears the diff cover but hits the factory stabilizer mount before reaching full lock. Did you have to cut that mount off the axle. Thanks
Quote:
Originally Posted by 94SaharaGa
Scrolled through your build thread and found my answer and your pics on page 98. Thanks

Sorry I just now saw your posts, if you want any more specific pic let me know! On a side not I have m.o.r.e cross over steering ordered!

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93 jeep yj bds 5 inch springs 5/8 boom shackles in the rear, locked front and rear dana 44/60 with front and rear chromoly shafts full cloak armor and 40 inch toyo's
january 2013 yjotm winner!
2013 yjoty winner!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1272253/

94 jeep zj bb lift, 31-10.50-15 toyo at2s, magnaflow exhaust!
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Unread 03-03-2014, 07:50 AM   #8
Norcal_chris
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The inverted T setup is less than ideal. I would hardly consider that even an upgrade since it is the same factory setup.

The RR setup uses that same idea.

I would say it would be more worth your while to run the JB4x4 bracket on the pass side and keep the tierod at the stock location. If you run a .250 wall tierod it is gonna take a lot to mess it up.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 01:24 PM   #9
mmbtv
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I use this setup also when I went to 3-link; way better than stock and M.O.R.E.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bong_Holyeo View Post
I did cross over steering with my SOA by using WJ knuckles. The big brakes are a plus too.





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Unread 03-03-2014, 02:06 PM   #10
'92 vegas YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmbtv View Post
I use this setup also when I went to 3-link; way better than stock and M.O.R.E.
What makes this better than the MORE setup? Just because you get bigger brakes? MORE uses a double shear setup with hiems, which in my opinion is better than the tapered TRE WJ knuckle. Just my opinion though.
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Unread 03-03-2014, 02:28 PM   #11
mmbtv
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The WJ setup w/ Ruff Stuff cross over just plain turned better for me, tighter smoother and less binding and the bigger stronger brakes is a bonus.
The M.O.R.E. setup put things in the right place for a springover but the feel was about the same as stock.
I think it is more the geomerty of the WJ knuckle.
Strength was/has not been in issue for me on either one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
What makes this better than the MORE setup? Just because you get bigger brakes? MORE uses a double shear setup with hiems, which in my opinion is better than the tapered TRE WJ knuckle. Just my opinion though.
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Unread 08-17-2014, 11:52 AM   #12
zte87
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OK I am bumping my own thread, I went with the m.o.r.e bracket and 3/4 inch him setup from ruff stuff any ways to I need to have my drag link perfectly flat or parallel to the tirod with this set up?

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93 jeep yj bds 5 inch springs 5/8 boom shackles in the rear, locked front and rear dana 44/60 with front and rear chromoly shafts full cloak armor and 40 inch toyo's
january 2013 yjotm winner!
2013 yjoty winner!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1272253/

94 jeep zj bb lift, 31-10.50-15 toyo at2s, magnaflow exhaust!
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Unread 08-17-2014, 01:10 PM   #13
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No you don't need to have it parallel with the tie rod.. But it would be ideal. Your angles look just fine.
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Unread 08-17-2014, 09:29 PM   #14
zte87
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Originally Posted by youngjeepr View Post
No you don't need to have it parallel with the tie rod.. But it would be ideal. Your angles look just fine.
OK I was told if it wast it would cause bumpsteer!
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93 jeep yj bds 5 inch springs 5/8 boom shackles in the rear, locked front and rear dana 44/60 with front and rear chromoly shafts full cloak armor and 40 inch toyo's
january 2013 yjotm winner!
2013 yjoty winner!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/m...build-1272253/

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Unread 08-17-2014, 09:43 PM   #15
youngjeepr
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It can cause bump steer if it's at a bigger angle but you are no where near close to that angle. Your steering should be solid!
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