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post #181 of Old 07-07-2013, 12:32 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Join Date: Dec 2003
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The power that Will has is impressive.
I was more impressed that he did not break the Dana 35!
I got nailed in the head with some of that mud you were slinging!


93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list. www.mijc.org
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post #182 of Old 07-07-2013, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
W_A_Watson_II
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Thanks Tom, yea I was real impressed with the power, especially since considering I was spinning the 33's with 3.07 gears. The 3.07's are what probably saved the axle shafts, and that I stayed out of it as much as possible.

Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37
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post #183 of Old 07-08-2013, 06:37 AM
lucdog
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I should have ridden with you Will, just to watch the speedometer to see how fast the tires were spinning. I got hit by debris from the tires from 30' away. And chest high to boot.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #184 of Old 07-08-2013, 07:29 AM Thread Starter
W_A_Watson_II
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Bill, 5K RPM should be around 58 MPH, I guess I should have mounted a camera to watch the gauges and out the windshield to capture the fun, oh well next time. It does seem to spin the 33's nicely, I' can't get the 39's to spin that well in my V-8 Powered M.

Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37
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post #185 of Old 10-16-2013, 08:20 PM Thread Starter
W_A_Watson_II
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Well, after 2 weeks and 1 day I have my YJ back. The transmission started having a shift problem, starting off in 1st, when in Drive, as well as the shift lever no longer having a positive detent feel. Took the Jeep the the shop that rebuilt the transmission for me, and said the problems were covered under the warranty, but as I had done the removal and re-install before I'd have to pay for that. Turns out I was glad I let them do it, as they had to pull and re-install the transmission three times! Initially they found that the 2nd gear shift bad had one of the end brackets rivets give, and let the other end's part fall free. Once that was fixed, the transmission was re-installed, only to have a leak in the front. So out it came for the 2nd time, and no bad seals, but a lot of assembly lube was present, so every thing was checked and re-assembles and installed. The leak was still present, further investigation showed that the back side of the flywheel was covered in fluid. Indicating a crack/leak in the torque converter. So out the transmission came for a third time, and a new torque converter was installed, as well as to be sure all was good in the pump, it was pulled and rebuilt again. Now all seems good, picked it up today and except for a 2-3 shift flare that they believe will work out with use, it's back to running great. The shifter was once again finding and I could feel the shift position indents'. RJ at the trans shop said that he found the shift lever pivot arm had more play that it should and said I should replace the bushing. I'd not noticed the play in the pivot when I rebuilt it Jeep, but pulled the linkage out and found the pivot point wore thru some, so out came it's pivot bracket, and found an oblonged hole. So I welded and filed the shaft, then decided with the 1" body lift I'd drill a new hole about 1" higher than the old one to better level the pivot point. Well, the shift arm then interfered wit the bracket. So I welded up the old and new holes in the bracket and drilled a new one only ~1/2" higher, and clearance the bracket a little to ensure no interference. It's all back in, and except for the slop in the government motors column, the shifter feels so much better than it ever has.


Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37
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post #186 of Old 11-04-2013, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
W_A_Watson_II
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Got the on-board-air compressor hoses made and installed. The compressor works great, and with the hand throttle with the engine setting at ~2K rpm, it supplies plenty of air. Leaks down from about 115 psi to 90 in about two hours, so I have a small leak some place. I still need to install the arming switch and wire (will change to a power rather than grounding wire), as well as getting a inlet air filter.

Picked up a Ford 8.8 rear axle out of a 1998 Ford Explorer. It's outfitted with 3.73 LS gears, (code D4, a 3200# disc brake axle). I started stripping it, and opened up the case, and found the usual black stinky gear oil. No water, and not looking too bad inside. The gears all look good. There is however 0.050 in ring gear backlash (spec is 0.008-0.015), and about .012 in pinion fore aft play. Feels like almost no pinion bearing preload, so with the end play, I'll have to re-torque the pinion flange bolt. I'll also have to re-shim the ring gear to get it's backlash within specification. The limited slip clutches seems to be good and tight.

Now to some decisions and parts planning. I'll by new rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, etc... ( new proportioning vale and improved master cylinder) as well as of course clean and paint everything. I'll also cut off the old spring perches, as I'll need to realign them in both width and rotation to get the proper pinion angle. With staying with a spring under suspension, and not having to use pinion alignment shims, I'll only loose about 1/8" in rear height with the larger diameter axle tubes on the 8.8.

The question is, why 3.73's, why not 4.10's? My thoughts are with the automatic, and a 4.6L engine producing ~240 HP & 315 ft.lbs. of torque (33% more HP & 43% more Torque than stock) I should have plenty of power and torque multiplication. The stock YJ with 3.07 gears and tires (215/75R15) ran with a crawl ration of 20.46:1 and at 55MPH the engine was turning about 2,048RPM. With the 3.73's and the 33" tires, the crawl ration will be 24.86:1 and at 55MPH the engine would be spinning about 2,088RPM. So even without all my extra power I'll have a little better crawl ratio and slightly higher engine RPM. With a torque converter multiplier of 2 (single stator TC), my crawl ration would be 49.72 to compare to a manual setup. I've seen people say the best ration from as low as 50, to as high as 85, with a few wanting 100 or higher. My M has a ratio of 76.3:1. 4.1 gears would only give me a craw ratio of 27.32:1, while s3.73's with a 4:1 transfer case would yield 36.55:1 (very close to the effective ratio of my M).

So my thought is to stay with the 3.73's and if I need a slower crawl ratio, upgrade to a 4:1 low range transfer case. I'll also be looking to install a new set of 2" lift springs to give myself a little more ground clearance, I already have a 1" body, and 1/2" in boomerang shackles as well as liberal wheel well openings. I may even stretch the rear axle back about 1" with the new axle spring perches.



Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37
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post #187 of Old 11-08-2013, 03:49 PM
lucdog
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I would stay with the 3.73's. if your not happy with them put the 4 to 1 case in.

Bill

1957 WILLYS pickup,
1973 J 4000,
1978 CJ7 DD.
1979 CJ7 360, TH400/Quadratrac.
1979 J20
1980 CJ5 trail Jeep.
1983 CJ7
1989 YJ the CJ to YJ.
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post #188 of Old 11-08-2013, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
W_A_Watson_II
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Thanks Bill, looking at the cost of 4.1's and 3.73's as I can pick up a carrier with 4.10's for the Dana 30 cheaper than I can get the carrier, so it might be cheaper to go 4.10's over 3.73's.

I spent a little time this morning doing the switch install and wiring. I trimmed out the switch plate that held the hard top wiper/washer switches, and opened up the third hole where I had a small temporary driving light switch. I then installed the three switches (one for compressor arming, and two for lights). Next came the wiring. I wired them so the dash lights activated the switch lower light, and I also switched the air compressor to arm with a power wire, rather than a ground wire (so I would not run the battery down). Once the wiring was done, the switches were installed and tested. They work great. They are the same OTRATTW switches I used in my Dodge M37. The left switch arms the Air Compressor, the right switch turns on my bumper mounted driving lights. The center switch, is wired to under the hood, but currently doesn't do anything, I'll need to decide what additional lights I'll install to use it for.


Will Watson
1993 Jeep YJ 4.6L Stroker (jeep.wawii.com)
1946 & 49 Dodge Power Wagon, 1953 Dodge M37
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