Started Jeep lift, already made a mistake... - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-29-2013, 07:57 PM Thread Starter
jason280
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Started Jeep lift, already made a mistake...

I finally started my lift today, consisting of Fabtech 3.5" springs with 1/2" boom shackles in the front and 1" booms in the rear (for an 8.8). I figured I would go ahead and do the lift, which would give me a little more clearance under the Jeep to pull the TC and install the SYE.

I started by installing the front springs first, and that's where I screwed up. For some reason, I thought all the leaf spring eye bushings were for 9/16" bolts. I remembered checking a few when I first picked up the kit, and they all cleared the 9/16" G8 bolts I'd ordered (problem is, I didn't check all of the bushings). I ordered my two sets of boom shackles from Besrk, and they were all drilled for 1/2" bolts. Well, to clear the 9/16" hardware, I went ahead and opened the front shackle spring bolt holes to 37/64". I went ahead with the install, and quickly figured out that only the frame/spring bushings are 9/16", whereas the spring/shackle bolts are 1/2". Ooops!

So, now I am sitting here with a front set of boom shackles that have been opened up to 37/64", and 1/2" bushings and bolts.

I guess I am left with a few options:
1. Order a new set of 1/2" boom shackles
2. Order a set of frame/spring bushings, which are the correct 9/16", and run them up front with the 9/16" hardware I have
3. Run the shackles as is (don't really like this option)

Any suggestions?

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-29-2013, 08:55 PM
Anticanman
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Stick the stock shackles on the front and proceed as planned. Then order a new set for the front.

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post #3 of 14 Old 05-29-2013, 09:22 PM
fratis
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follow anti...dont let this slow you down. keep going.

id drill the bushing sleeves to fit the 9/16ths.

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post #4 of 14 Old 05-29-2013, 09:44 PM
Anticanman
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I never thought about drilling bushings. I bet finding the steel bushings for inbetween would be a little more challenging.

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post #5 of 14 Old 05-29-2013, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fratis View Post
follow anti...dont let this slow you down. keep going.

id drill the bushing sleeves to fit the 9/16ths.
This is what I'd do as well. Very easy if you have a drill press, somewhat more annoying with a hand drill.

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post #6 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 01:08 AM Thread Starter
jason280
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Quote:
id drill the bushing sleeves to fit the 9/16ths.
I actually considered doing this, which would be the cheapest option...assuming I can drill out the bushings. I have a couple of drill presses, so that shouldn't be an issue. The only problem I can foresee is being able to hold the bushings tight enough to keep them from spinning in place. It would be so much easier if I still had my lathe!

I also found out that the Fabtech bushing kit I ordered wasn't correct. Instead of having 4x 9/16" bushings for the frame/springs and 4x 1/2" bushings for the spring/shackles, I ended up with 5x of the 1/2" and 3x of the 9/16", so hopefully drilling won't be too difficult. I'm not sure if the mistake was Fabtech's or the person I ordered from on eBay, but its too late for me to contact the seller. I've had the kit for a few months, so I guess I need to start checking my orders a little more closely when they are delivered.

I was able to finish up the front, now I just need to finish with the back. I still need to add brake like extensions and retorque the bolts, but I'm in no hurry. I did notice that my front drive shaft is spinning in 2WD, so I'll need to troubleshoot the CAD. Getting the front trackbar in place took some finessing, and I haven't decided if I want to run the front swaybars or not.

I noticed when I finished up with the front, I have a slight lean. Looking straight at the Jeep from the front, the passenger side is sitting about an 1-1.5" lower than the driver's side. Is this normal with new springs?
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post #7 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason280 View Post
I was able to finish up the front, now I just need to finish with the back. I still need to add brake like extensionsCheck out Anti's FREE brake line relocation method. Worked for me! Totally easy (maybe 5 mins a side) and totally free before you buy extended lines. and retorque the bolts, but I'm in no hurry. I did notice that my front drive shaft is spinning in 2WD, so I'll need to troubleshoot the CAD. Getting the front trackbar in place took some finessing, and I haven't decided if I want to run the front swaybars or not. GET RID OF THAT TRACK BAR!!!! YOU DO NOT NEED IT AT ALL!!!!! Seriously, the best thing I did to improve my ride was remove the track bars all together. Ditch them. Do it! As far as sway bars, I boogered mine up when installing my lift and have been running without them ever since. I can barely tell at all. I think I will buy some quick discos before any long range road trips simply for the piece of mind, but honestly I really don't think it matters much at all to just run without them.

I noticed when I finished up with the front, I have a slight lean. Looking straight at the Jeep from the front, the passenger side is sitting about an 1-1.5" lower than the driver's side. Is this normal with new springs?Double check the torque on all your shackles. You could have one bolt over tightened not allowing the springs to return to "neutral." Other than that a litter difference between sides is normal. I know my lift had some ghetto lean when I first installed it. After driving around the block a few times and flexing it out on some speed bumps/curbs/embankments she settled down and is pretty much perfectly level now.
Response in the quote.

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post #8 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
jason280
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Thanks for the info!

On a positive note, I won't have to drill out my 1/2" bushings. While in the shop, I remembered that I still had the 9/16" bushings from the factory springs. Just an FYI, old frame/spring bushings & inserts are a PITA to remove. The easiest way I found to remove the steel inserts was to use my ball joint press kit and a 13mm socket (need a shallow and deep)...and make sure you use some grease. I used wheel bearing grease, and was able to press the inserts out. Now, I have to figure out a way to make the 9/16" steel inserts work with the 1/2" bushings. I'm not sure of a way to ream out the inside of the bushings to allow the inserts to fit, so suggestions are welcome. I don't think drilling them out will work, at least I'm not brave enough to try without asking some of the other members.
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post #9 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 07:05 AM
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I second ditching the track bars. That's one of the first things I did. When I did my lift, I ****canned the sway bar after figuring out that it handles the same, if not better, than before the lift.

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post #10 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 08:58 AM
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The trackbars could be part of what is causing your lean since they dont let the suspension cycle properly. Pull them off drive around the block then look at it again. mine had no lean when I lifted it. My track and sway bars had been in storage collecting dust for awhile at that point. I saved them since sometimes the inspection people get a little mad when they dont see them so once a year they go on for an hour and then come right back off. I dont even put them on properly they are just for show at that time anyway.

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diagnose the real issue before you start going all Obama on it - spending mad cash you'll need for other important things.

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this is also my second set of RC springs this year. I'd rather spend the money again and get something that will last.
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 09:15 AM
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What's a track or sway bar...

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post #12 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 08:09 PM
jeeper95creeper
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This may sound stupid but I'm gonna ask.is the front drive shaft not suppose to turn in 2wd?cause mine does.what does that mean?
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post #13 of 14 Old 05-30-2013, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
jason280
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My understanding is the driveshaft shouldn't turn while a YJ is in 2WD. I'm not sure what my issue is, but I assume the CAD fork is simply not disengaging, causing the DS to spin.
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post #14 of 14 Old 05-31-2013, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jason280 View Post
My understanding is the driveshaft shouldn't turn while a YJ is in 2WD. I'm not sure what my issue is, but I assume the CAD fork is simply not disengaging, causing the DS to spin.
Could be the cause. My shift fork was stuck in the locked position for a while. Also make sure our shift linkage is adjusted properly so it's not the t-case.

Lou

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