[bigrobby]

well i didnt listen to people when they told me to get rid of the D35......broke it 4 times. i think i'll listen this time and go SOA when i lift it more. got some questions though.

I have my stock springs at the house somewhere, not in bad shape. should i use them or is it just worth to get the OME springs or something else?

Shackles: the ones i have right now are almost 2 inches longer than stock, so almost an inch of lift. they're good shackles, any reason not to use them?

perches: i'll have to use a traction bar i'm sure, i'll get to that later...but should i just find the longest anti wrap perches i can? whats too long?

Track Bars: Right now i don't have a rear one and the front mount extension sucks, almost makes it useless. are they even necessary?

Height: with stock height springs and 1 inch shackles that'll have me about 7 inches up in the rear, 6.5 up front. sounds good to me but just wanna make sure that's not too much. i don't like the idea of rollin at the slightest lean.

thanks

[Tomb Raider]

Originally Posted by bigrobby

well i didnt listen to people when they told me to get rid of the D35......broke it 4 times. i think i'll listen this time and go SOA when i lift it more. got some questions though.

I have my stock springs at the house somewhere, not in bad shape. should i use them or is it just worth to get the OME springs or something else?

Shackles: the ones i have right now are almost 2 inches longer than stock, so almost an inch of lift. they're good shackles, any reason not to use them?

perches: i'll have to use a traction bar i'm sure, i'll get to that later...but should i just find the longest anti wrap perches i can? whats too long?

Track Bars: Right now i don't have a rear one and the front mount extension sucks, almost makes it useless. are they even necessary?

Height: with stock height springs and 1 inch shackles that'll have me about 7 inches up in the rear, 6.5 up front. sounds good to me but just wanna make sure that's not too much. i don't like the idea of rollin at the slightest lean.

thanks

If you think they are in good shape, we have to take your word at it. One thing of caution. When you go to replace the springs....you will have no idea where your springs were in their life...therefor, 9 times out of time....new springs and any point from here forward will throw off your pinion, caster...etc. Just a word of caution. If you decided to use new OME springs, you would have no need for the lift shackles which brings us to your next question.

The lift shackles are fine by themselves. Couple that with an SOA and used or new springs and they are pretty much not needed. Another "planning ahead" thought....if you ever decide to get rid of the bucktooth shackles, your pinion would be off from your original setting. Again, just thinking ahead. The idea is to have to do things as few times as possible. It is also to have forthought to know that when it's done it's right. I have lift shackles, 5/8" ones. I wouldn't trade them for anything, simply because of their beef, not because of the lift. "Nearly 1" lift shackles should be fine.

If you have a traction bar, it matters not about the perches. Antiwrap perches work, but not nearly as well as a traction bar. If it were my rig, I'd get standard quality perches, anti wrap or not, and make sure to get the traction bar. I'd rather tell you to get cheapo perches...as long as you got a traction bar. I've seen my axle without a traction bar, actually just unhooked, and the movement of the rear axle under load is crazy. Don't skimp on not getting a traction bar. Use some of the cash you would use on perches and shackles and get a traction bar. Then the perches don't matter cause the axle can't twist anyway.

The rear panhard bar is pretty much useless. With the minimal amount of weight that is on the rear axle...it doesn't move laterally hardly at all. Scrap it. The front one, while you can ditch it, can be useful. If you can find a way to keep it and either get a "quick disconnect" setup on it, or get a telescoping one. While most say the traction bar in front isn't needed....I say it can be useful if you drive it on the road. The wandering and darting is significantlly reduced with a panhard on the front compared to not having it. Yes, I've driven mine both ways, and the feel of the rig is much more responsive with the panhard on. This is accenuated with longer shackles...as they will allow for more side to side motion.

Your about right with your measurements. I found that the more weight you put in the rear, the better it rides. Work on getting one of those tire carrier/bumper setups. Then you can mount your heavier tire and get a better ride. Jeeps ride alot like a school bus. Remember when it was cool to ride in the very back seat of the bus. It was always the bouncy spot. Same on a jeep. The more weight you can get there, the better the ride will be.


These are just some small things.

BTW, don't forget steering. Teraflex, JB4x4 and a few others make some good steering products to help eliminate your bumpsteer you will face with SOA.