some weber questions for weber users - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
giggityjeeper
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some weber questions for weber users

hey just installed my weber and it runs good, but I think it could be better..couple things

1. what is your FPR set to, I got mine set to 2 for now,

2. also what is your idle mixture screw set to as far as how many turns out from all the way in, I was playing with these and cant seem to get it right, the jeep either wont idle or stalls after it idles for a couple minutes,

3. Should I adjust these with the engin warm or cold, I guessing warm, with choke open but not sure.

It ran awsome the first week which is weird cause I never touched a thing, then the other day it stalled so I started adjusting these, and cant seem to get it right...

any other ideas.....


Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 11:34 AM
ZickZJ
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1. 2 as well
2. Not sure
3. warm

Make sure to check your timing. Did you do the nutter as well?
Also make sure you have the correct vacuum line hooked to the distributor. I though mine ran well since I got it so I never checked, but just looked at it the other day and found I had manifold vacuum going to the dist instead of port vacuum.
Now she runs really good!

Sold 90' YJ, 4.2, Weber, 4" Procrap, 33" BFG MTs, 8.8 w/ 4.10s & LSD, SYE & Tomwoods DS, Dual Optimas, Jacobs, Electric fan.

97' ZJ, SOLD
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 11:35 AM
mean90yj
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in my instructions, it says get the vehicle up to idle temp. then adjust slowly. IDK about the choke, i got an electric choke so it cuts off once everything is up and running. What kind of carb. do you have. that helps us answer these questions.

'90 I6 258 w/ Weber 32-36 Carb.
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
giggityjeeper
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sorry here some more info its a weber 32/36, k551 kit number...

jeep is nutter by me, so I know its done, I have the dist advance running off the side of carb left side as you look at jeep, it has the Y in it and goes back to the CTO switch, basically I followed the instructions I found on here for the vacuum so I dont think it is that. I have not checked the timing yet but I dont get any knock when its idling it does when its warmed up, but it always did, which as I say it now makes me thing the knock sensor is retarding the timing and screwing me up maybe????

another queston can I get rid of the CTO anyway????

Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 01:33 PM
ZickZJ
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I would definatly check your timing to start with.

I had troubles keeping my running at less than 1,000 rpms at idle. After getting my timing straightened out, I've got it down to about 650rpms with no problems.

Sold 90' YJ, 4.2, Weber, 4" Procrap, 33" BFG MTs, 8.8 w/ 4.10s & LSD, SYE & Tomwoods DS, Dual Optimas, Jacobs, Electric fan.

97' ZJ, SOLD
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post #6 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 01:48 PM
ElvisV04290
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1. 3
2. 2 and 3/4 turns out
3. at operating temp

The instructions say to hold the choke open by placing something in the intake, like a small piece of wood. Also, when I would adjust the mixture, after it idled for like 30 seconds, I would rev the motor by hand. If it picked right back up and idle smooth, then it was fine. Otherwise I kept tweaking it.

1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped.
Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003

Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com
Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/weber-32-36-install-write-up-382309/
Early YJ Club Member #37
For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
giggityjeeper
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that is the problem I am having when I rev it by hand it idles down and stalls out, liek its either starving or is flooding itself.....or if it idles for about 2 minutes it will stall out..
weird it ran so good the first week, could it have developed a vac leak somewhere? and if so what line would cause this, I have a suspesion about hte 'T' line coming out of the front of the carb, goes to the canister, and out of top of valve cover (air recirculator??)....if I unhook this line it will immediately stall out, so if is leaking it may cause this???

like I said I can tinker but not carb smart, I am learning lots as I go, but carb and vacuum crap is not my boat....

as for timing what is your guys set to.....give me a starting reference anyhow...

thanks

Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 03:11 PM
ElvisV04290
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Go over all your vac lines and make sure they are good. If you look at to write-up in my sig there is a good diagram of how everything should be hooked up. The part on top of your valve cover is part of the PCV system (positive crankcase ventilation). If you unhook it you drop the vacuum pressure and the motor tries to suck air through that line and you run into a too lean condition which will cause the engine to stall. Not sure about the timing since the computer is still messing with mine, someone with the nutter can tell you. Hope any of this helps.

1990 YJ, Colorado Red with 'Laredo' markings, 4.2L, TF999, NP231, Valvoline Syn fluids, Weber 32/36, Nutter Bypass, Dana 30/35, 16" Electric Fan, Optima Yellow Top, 140amp alt., K&N Air Filter, Cherry Bomb muffler, SRC Front Bumper, CH&F Shackles, KC 100w Daylighters, Homemade Lightbar, Rear Aux lights, Cobra CB/PA/WX, 102" Whip Ant., 400 watt power inverter, 2 fire extinguishers, Mobile Internet & WiFi equipped.
Daily Driver since April 23rd, 2003

Northern Illinois Extreme Jeep Club Member www.extremejeepclub.com
Weber 32/36 Install -> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382309
Early YJ Club Member #37
For anyone with a 4.2L --> http://groups.jeepforum.com/258s_Unite
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-08-2007, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
giggityjeeper
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well I tinkeredat lunch, checked for vac leaks, did not spary the carb yet to check it but it looks good, after playing with the idle screw and idle mixture screw a bit, I decided to take the fuel fileter off to see if it was plugged, (I just changed it not long ago, before it broke down so did not think to check it again), anyhow after taking it off and draining it, the fuel was nice and clean and it was full, I figured this is not the problem, however...after hooking it back up the frickin thing runs fine, I was able to adjustthe idle mixture and idle screw to a good 700 or soo idle, rev it and it goes back to idle, drove it to work and it never missed a beat, aside from being super loud cause I hacked the exhaust off, getting a new one tomorrow, (was already scheduled)..

Could the fuel filter have sucked something out the tank up and just been plugged? weird, will keep yall posted, thanks for the replies, and I will double check the timing tonight.

Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-09-2007, 12:39 PM
ZickZJ
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My timing is set at 8* with the vacuum line to dist pulled off and plugged.

Sold 90' YJ, 4.2, Weber, 4" Procrap, 33" BFG MTs, 8.8 w/ 4.10s & LSD, SYE & Tomwoods DS, Dual Optimas, Jacobs, Electric fan.

97' ZJ, SOLD
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post #11 of 13 Old 06-09-2007, 12:59 PM
Azboy
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Unfortunately, alot of this sound familiar to me. I've been fighting with mine and have tried and wondered about the same things you've been trying.

Since mine doesn't have a "T" or "Y" in the vacum line from the distrib to carb, and there seems to be one needed to the CTO, which port on the CTO does it connect to? Middle one on the firewall side or the outside one on the front? (All my vacum lines had been removed before I got it so I've been trying to get the necessary ones put back.)

Since I was just messing with the vapor canister, I still have one vacum/vapor nipple that is missing the hose. Diagram looks like it goes to the forward PVC line. Does that one need to be hooked up or not? Runs without it, but has issues.
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-09-2007, 04:21 PM Thread Starter
giggityjeeper
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so if your dist is pulled off you are using one from the CTO to the carb or no....

Also I think I got my problem down to a vapor lock not a carb problem, after pulling the fule filter out and it running so good made me think about it...then today it did it again and I loosened the gas capo off and it worked thru the sputter and ran good after bout 30 seconds.....why would this be happening???

I can understand once in awhile but this seems to be constant after a certain amount of driving...

as for you Axboy follow the link ELVIS posted on the 32/36 weber install it give a VERY good diagram of the vac lines, I used this seems to work fine....however I am wonder about the Dist line if I even need it I am nuttered,
so Zick do you have the CTO plugged as well and just one line from CTO to carb???

Started with some rust repairs ended in a SOA...

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-jeep-1050879/

family roll bar swap/upgrade..

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/f...grade-1054753/

1990 YJ. SOA, OME 36R 3.5" lift springs, OME 5/8 greasable shackles, OTT high steer, Custom cage, team Rush, Posi, 33 TSL swampers
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-09-2010, 09:24 PM
1989Laredo
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I know it's an old post, but what did you finally get your timing and fuel pressure set to?

Last edited by 1989Laredo; 06-10-2010 at 09:08 AM.
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