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Unread 08-31-2004, 11:35 AM   #1
2muchfun
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Some kinda Vacume bypass to get kinda like front locker?

I vaguely recall hearing about some trick or kit you can use that makes the front axle stay locked? Anyone know anything about this?

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Unread 08-31-2004, 02:58 PM   #2
Tshark299
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Why would you want to always keep it connected? I dont think there is a kit that always keeps it connected but there is the Posi-Lock that lets you conect and disconnect it with a cable instead of vacuum.
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Unread 08-31-2004, 03:19 PM   #3
Saturdaynight
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I think this is what you're looking for.

4X4 POSI-LOK MANUAL AXLE DISCONNECT YJ PSL900

Or just do this.

Front axle Home made disconnect
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Unread 08-31-2004, 04:26 PM   #4
2muchfun
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Ah yes, I like that $20 project

Are there any negatives to doing this?
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Unread 08-31-2004, 08:00 PM   #5
Oakey
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if you just want the axle to stay locked ......

Thats an easy fix......


Remove the fork cover and put the fork in the correct postion to lock the (2) axles togethere measure the space between the fork and the E clips on the rods..... No just remove the dashpot and place washer that measure the amount from the above measurement.....


Now you can put the unit back togethere and the front end will be locked .......


Basically you are shiming the movemnet to one side and making it permantly fixed.....

L8R,
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Unread 09-01-2004, 12:16 PM   #6
RideRed04
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This doesn't give you a locker, it just makes it so the front axle doesn't ever disconnect. A locker locks your spider gears, this gives you more traction. With the home brew axle lock, its like leaving locking front hubs engaged all the time. Causes more wear and decreases gas milage.
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Unread 10-27-2011, 09:29 PM   #7
chet90xj
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On my old yj I welded the spiders up then i ran my vacuum lines inside.
I would leave the axle disconnect unlocked for regular 4 wheel. Then if i needed
a locker i would just lock the disconnect in. Worked great.
Gonna be doing it to my xj next.
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Unread 10-27-2011, 09:36 PM   #8
rustyyj
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i was thinking about welding my front diff im already going to had a cable disconnect how badd is it drivin on the street?
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Unread 10-27-2011, 09:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyyj View Post
i was thinking about welding my front diff im already going to had a cable disconnect how badd is it drivin on the street?
Your driveshaft is gonna spin all the time. It's done by many but I wouldn't recommend doing it at all. Post resurrection ftw!
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Unread 10-28-2011, 08:09 AM   #10
rustyyj
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right so im going to need to balance my front drive shaft and probibly gonna go through driver side u joints. ill get a lil less mpg's but im not to worried about that. if there are no other problems then i think im gonna go for it. 3wd is better then 2wd
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Unread 10-28-2011, 08:14 AM   #11
Anticanman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyyj View Post
right so im going to need to balance my front drive shaft and probibly gonna go through driver side u joints. ill get a lil less mpg's but im not to worried about that. if there are no other problems then i think im gonna go for it. 3wd is better then 2wd
With the cost of everything you just mentioned, you can buy an Aussie locker for the front end and not have to take the time to replace ujoints. Have you ever changed a ujoint? I don't think you actually have considering you just blew it off. Lemme tell ya, it's not fun. I've done at least a hundred in the last seven years and every one has it's different challenges.

Go with the lunchbox or leave it open.
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Unread 10-28-2011, 08:46 AM   #12
rustyyj
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get yourself a ujoint or ball joint press with good shop air its a breeze. and i can balance the shaft myself...might not be perfect but it works in my 70 chevelle upto about 80mph. so all in all with lube gasket and 3 ujoints id be into it about $70 trust me i know its not the right way but im trying to build this jeep for under $1200 the more i can build instead of buy the better
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Unread 10-28-2011, 08:53 AM   #13
seraph_rapture
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As was mentioned to bypass the vacuum system you can pull the cover off, remove the C clip, move the collar toward the drivers side, and replace the clip.
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Unread 10-28-2011, 09:08 AM   #14
Tshark299
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyyj View Post
right so im going to need to balance my front drive shaft and probibly gonna go through driver side u joints. ill get a lil less mpg's but im not to worried about that. if there are no other problems then i think im gonna go for it. 3wd is better then 2wd
If you're lifted (or will be) and still running the stock front driveshaft, consider finding a front shaft from a TJ with the same drivetrain as yours. It will be the same length as the one you have now, but from the factory it will also be balanced, a larger diameter, and have a CV joint at the transfer case end which will also help alot with vibrations above 30mph. You'll also need to swap the t-case's front output yoke to one from a TJ or XJ but that's really not a big deal.
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'87 YJ Laredo - 4.0L, AX-15, NP231, 4.10s: 3.5" BDS, 31" Muds

'95 XJ - Donated drive train to the YJ, Parted out the rest

'51 CJ-3A - Buick 225 V6: Painless Wiring Harness, Warn Overdrive & Hubs, 2" Lift, 31" Muds
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Unread 10-28-2011, 11:38 AM   #15
19renegade91
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just to clarify...my front driveshaft spins all the time anyway and also its like haveing manuakl locking hubs that are always locked even when im not in 4x4 but like an above post said, more gas milage and more wear and, trust me you cant push it very far,...exept this is how it is stock on mine...so i dont understand what this is all about...you need to weld spider gears to do what your talking about eh? ....how do i get rid of this acutated crap, and get manual locking hubs for my jeep
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