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Solution for clearance and approach angles

2K views 44 replies 14 participants last post by  87TPIYJ 
#1 ·
went wheelin over the weekend and I was kinda frustrated at how much easier my coiled sprung friends had it approaching obstacles. My front shackles (5 3/8" boomerangs) and spring hangers getting caught on everything. I don't have funds to go to a coil over system but am contemplating maybe going SOA and shackle reversal for the front. these two would probably be my best options on a budget right? I know it'll cost a few bucks but not in the thousands like coil overs. BTW I'm a little handy with a welder and do trust my own welds so......... :cool:
 
#2 ·
Well, the spring over is an option...

Are the long shackles needed? how about 4" shackles and hi fenders?

Can you stretch the front a bit? are your spring pins in the middle perch hole or the forward one?

Personally I've bumped the occasional shackle but never felt held back because of them...

I'm not too sure how much the SR is needed either...
 
#3 ·
Well, the spring over is an option...

Are the long shackles needed? how about 4" shackles and hi fenders?

Can you stretch the front a bit? are your spring pins in the middle perch hole or the forward one?

Personally I've bumped the occasional shackle but never felt held back because of them...

I'm not too sure how much the SR is needed either...
Is moving the axle forward an option? I thought the D30 spring perch was only slotted for one spot. If so I was going to change out the front springs and put some 4 inchers and go to 4"Zones, the ranchos I got in there I think are too stiff. But I'm asking at this point wondering if I should just go soa.
 
#5 ·
......contemplating maybe going SOA and shackle reversal for the front. these two would probably be my best options on a budget right?......
Those two things are not compatible, unless your "budget" is around $1,200 to $2,000 for the SOA and spring reversal.
 
#10 ·
paulhead said:
kinda frustrated at how much easier my coiled sprung friends had it approaching obstacles. My front shackles (5 3/8" boomerangs) and spring hangers getting caught on everything:
There's more to it than that. Tire sizes? Stretch? Overall lift? Technique? Lockers? More technique?

You can lose the longer shackles if you cut off the factory SUA spring perches and weld in your own low clearance perches. Gains like 1-1/8" iirc.
Then, while your at it, just drill a different hole 1" offset rearwards and move the steering box forward an inch (easy, a little time consuming) to bring the axle forward.
You can bush the tie rod arms on the knuckle and stick the tie rod over the top. This comes close to factory pitman offset so won't require a dropped pitman arm.
You'll probably want to figure out if you'll need new shocks after that and maybe space down your bump stops.

Shackle swapping is something that interests me, too, but imho, after much study and measuring, trigonometry, on my project frame I decided it wasn't the time to do this because - again, imo - there's A LOT of things I'd want to do to do it well. For that much work straight up SOA might do what I'd want and actually not be that much more time. Dunno. I arrived at simply cutting off the perches as above and I'll save SOA for the next jeep project. I just want this one on the road and I'm pretty happy with how it's developed- though very different than my original intentions. Actually I'm super pleased with where it is, can't wait to drive what I've done!
 
#11 ·
You can't really do much for shackle length while you have a 4" SUA setup. When the springs flatten out on compression, they push out the shackle quite a bit. It's clearly not a trivial project, nor cheap, but the best suspension mod I've ever made to my Jeep was just doing a spare-no-expense and well thought out SOA.
 
#12 ·
OK, have a few things in mind, you guys have given me plenty chud to chew on. Gonna start with getting rid of the longer Ranchos springs, go to shorter 4" boomerangs shackles in the front, and gonna see about moving the axle forward in inch. Gonna try not to put too much money into it,
like I stated I was already replacing the front springs with the Zones and I also have a JY u-bolt flip I was gonna try in the front. Maybe save time and funds to eventually go soa in the future.
 
#14 ·
#15 ·
This SRS does not lift the front https://www.mountainoffroad.com/jee...ith-through-frame-shackle-mount-87-95-yj.html
I have thought long and hard about doing this but have never done it.
I thought I read some where that a SRS does stretch your front some.You can stretch the front some with out moving the box. I went 2 inches with out a problem.
If you have not upgraded your shackle hangers do it now before they break. They will break eventually.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/WBHGR.html
 
#23 ·
Unfortunately leaf spring stick out, about 22.5". Random thought:
RS will help, but mounting them on the frame (up tight, no fangs) causes an angle issue that tries to drive (pull on the front) the axle out from under the rig. Lower the back mount will exaggerate this problem.
Put the shackle thru the frame, longer shackle and less spring angle can be used.
RS also helps with the "bumping" things without inverting/bending springs.
1.25 is about as far forward as a YJ box can be pushed before hitting the cross support, MORE makes a HD mount to do this. If you want to move farther, the Astro (reverse pitman arm) box is probably a good option.
Move the axle forward is a must, if using stock fenders. Not moving the axle forward will push the tire into the fender.
Hard to keep a SOA rig low. Getting the correct springs, traction bars, bla bla bla will all seem to add height and then you start doing stuff like recessing mounts to keep it low, ask me how I know.
 
#24 ·
Having run SRS with the MORE mounts for years I'd say skip it its not worth the expensive driveshaft you'll need (7-9" travel required) and the brake dive it'll create. Does it ride better yes will it bend less springs not in mine or my buddies jeeps it actually bent more. There are plus and for sure minus to SRS weight the options and make the call.


IMO your best bet is go soa with stock length shackles slide the axle 1"-2" forward by redrill perches and or removing the junk stock shackle hangers and spring hangers with ruffstuff mounts. Don't forget the steering correction for the 30 and traction bar if you soa the rear.


By the time you do it right you could honestly link atleast the front with some used coilovers except then it comes down to thats not worth building around a 30 lol.
 
#30 ·
I had to cut some off of the drivers side mount to clear the steering box.
Ruff stuff used to sell a mount that was shorter but I do not see them on their website anymore.
 
#33 ·
Yeah, they were called the "Way Back" shackle hanger, I believe(it's what I have). I had them bookmarked, but now the bookmark goes to the ones you linked to.
 
#32 ·
I destroyed my last set of BDS springs from pushing them through rocks and up ledges and I was only running 5/8" lift shackles.

I still hit them sometimes but my approach angle is definitely better now SOA with stock length shackles. Would be even better if I pushed the axle forward 1" on the perches.

You can always drill new holes in your stock perches and spring plates...
 
#34 ·
I think the way back hanger is their standard hanger now.

I used the same on my front too, but I cut the whole front end off so I couldn't say if it interfered with the bumper mounting or not.
 
#35 ·
You might be right. I got mine "way back" when Dan still worked in the shop, and talked to everyone that walked in.

They do interfere with the lower mounting of a bumper. But the bumper can be fabbed to work if welded. That's the big hang up with me mounting that bumper you gave me. Johnny is trying to finish that '51 Ford he's got all his money into.
 
#36 ·
So grinding the heck out of these hangers. Having to really cut down the drivers side to get it to fit next to the steering box. But in the end they'll be a lot stronger than stock. First pic is untouched one on the right.
 

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#37 ·
I call it Franken-Hanger :monsta: Still learning with my weld-pak 100 but I think it'll hold.
 

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#38 ·
paulhead said:
I call it Franken-Hanger :monsta: Still learning with my weld-pak 100 but I think it'll hold.
Looks ok. Some flaws that wouldn't pass in a certification test but I think it's glued on...

Looks like you used fluxcore. If so you made the right choice. .035 wire on "D" at about 3.25/3.5 feed settings and our jeep frames is about max capacity for single or double pass on a weldpak 100. I have had one for twenty-five years set up flux-core wirefeed, and over the winter added a second one set up MIG. The MIG works great to weld 16 &18 gauge, but does not impress me on 14 gauge or heavier. I've never attempted welding very heavy stuff with fluxcore, but it tackles 1/4" pretty well. The key seems to be running the wire slow enough to keep the heat in one place longer, but still fast enough make a decent puddle ahead of the bead.
 
#40 ·
So the first image is with the Ranchos and 5/8 lift shackle, the second with the 4" Zones and stock length shackles. Springs needs to settle a bit but already feel softer and eliminated the protruding shackles/springs a little. Lost a the stretch and my front DS seems too short. Gonna see after they settle what I'll do.
 

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#42 ·
well I noticed my spring hangers were a hair forward of where they were originally and thought nothing of it til my spring flipped while some heavy bouncing wheeling. So I'm hoping a longer boomerang may fix the issue. So was wondering if the flip may have been a freak accident and does anyone see any issue with the longer hanger angle? The flipped hanger was a 4" boom and the longer are 5/8" lift
 

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#44 ·
I wondered if that would happen when I saw you shackle angle. It should be more of a 45% angle.
You could try flipping the shackles around and getting a longer shackle.
I my opinion though I would move the back mount forward. (that way you will keep you longer wheel base)
You could use the stock mounts or go with something like this. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/63FLSH.html
I am not sure how much that would change your pinion and caster angles though.
You may be able to make up for it with the shorter shackles.
 
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