Solid axle conversion seal question...w/ pics - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
wrangler5191
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Solid axle conversion seal question...w/ pics

The first picture is of the passenger side of the pumpkin. The second picture is of the driver side of the pumpkin. I am doing the one piece axle swap (both passenger and driver sides) and have ordered the 11800 seals from NAPA. My understanding is that I have to install these seals on both sides of the pumpkin.

My question is that it appears that there is not a embossment in the axle on the passenger side to accept the seal but there is on the driver side.

Am I missing something here?

I have already removed the seal on the outboard side of the vaccum control module.

By the way...thanks to encouragement from you guys, I went down to the U-Pull in town and came away with some axles from an XJ for $25 each. You guys ROCK!

Sure beats $239 each on-line.

Mike










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post #2 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 01:37 PM
Nickabis
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The napa seal 11800 will go on the passenger side of the pumpkin, there's no machined spot for it because the oil seal from factory was at the cad housing. The seal will fit in the housing perfectly. Just need to be careful when installing. As for the drivers side, the stock seal works.

Forgot to mention, your not missing anything on the passenger side, that's how mine was as well.
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post #3 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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Got it!!!! Thank you!
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post #4 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 02:43 PM
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My understanding of it is, #11800 in the passenger side and #11899 on the driver side. those are napa part numbers.

I ended up getting Dana Spicer #46470 for the driver side, since my napa wanted $20 for it. I was advised to use (2) 11800 on the passenger side (together front to back), but havent done it yet, so not sure if they fit.

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post #5 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickabis View Post
The napa seal 11800 will go on the passenger side of the pumpkin, there's no machined spot for it because the oil seal from factory was at the cad housing. The seal will fit in the housing perfectly. Just need to be careful when installing. As for the drivers side, the stock seal works.

Forgot to mention, your not missing anything on the passenger side, that's how mine was as well.
What he said. Works Great. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.

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post #6 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 04:41 PM Thread Starter
wrangler5191
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Ok, just so I'm clear.

I'm swapping the drivers side too. So I could use the stock YJ seal with the TJ shaft on that side.
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post #7 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrangler5191 View Post
Ok, just so I'm clear.

I'm swapping the drivers side too. So I could use the stock YJ seal with the TJ shaft on that side.
this is correct...the driver side TJ shaft is the same diameter as the YJ shaft, so the seal works just as it would with a YJ shaft in there.

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post #8 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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Perfect!!!
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post #9 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 05:13 PM
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Don't bother running a seal at the disconnect housing like some people do. The shaft isn't machined for that and will wear right through it

I go to college and I drive a Jeep.
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post #10 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Got it! Pulled it out already and don't plan on replacing it.
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post #11 of 22 Old 01-26-2012, 07:19 PM
Nickabis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian22
I was advised to use (2) 11800 on the passenger side (together front to back), but havent done it yet, so not sure if they fit.
I've never heard of using two? I figure, if one is going to go bad, than the other will as well but that's my thoughts.
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post #12 of 22 Old 10-19-2013, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SnowYJ View Post
Don't bother running a seal at the disconnect housing like some people do. The shaft isn't machined for that and will wear right through it
I know this is bringing a post back from the dead, but I put a seal on the CAD housing and ran my Jeep over 30k miles with absolutely zero leaks.

What I did was pull out the old seal, take it to a local seal shop with my new shaft and got the right seal for the machined part of the housing. And like I said, absolutely no wear nor tear on the seal. Although, I made sure to smooth down the shaft at where the seal seats.

I just forgot what seal I used.
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post #13 of 22 Old 10-19-2013, 11:02 AM
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You didn't use one next to the carrier on the passenger side along with the CAD?

IMO, I like having a seal right next to the carrier. On both sides. No sense in paying for fluid to sit in the axle tube.
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post #14 of 22 Old 10-19-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Apollo12227 View Post
You didn't use one next to the carrier on the passenger side along with the CAD?

IMO, I like having a seal right next to the carrier. On both sides. No sense in paying for fluid to sit in the axle tube.
No need for two seals then. You'll just burn out the second one.

And I put it on the outside part of the CAD because there's already a recess for a seal, its easy to put in, and you don't have to take the carrier out and potentially lose, or mix up the shims. And for what? Some (an ounce or two) of oil getting in the shaft? Seems like a lot of work with little reward/benefit. Again, I've ran mine 30k miles, on and off road. No issues. And replacing that seal isn't difficult if I ever need to do it. I told myself if it wore/leaked often I'd put it at the pumpkin. But, I think 30k miles is a good run.

I'm doing it again because, ironically, I ****ed up my carrier. Instead of fixing it I'm just throwing a new axle in.
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post #15 of 22 Old 10-19-2013, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idskot View Post
And I put it on the outside part of the CAD because there's already a recess for a seal, its easy to put in, and you don't have to take the carrier out and potentially lose, or mix up the shims..
What shims?

The shims are between the carrier bearing and the carrier... Pulling the carrier doesn't effect the shims.

As for there not being a machined section next to the carrier, well, considering how many people throw in the nappa seal and don't have issues, I can't see why one wouldn't just do it the way so many on this site recommend.

Just because yours didn't leak doesnt mean the method is universal. I tried using one next to the CAD as a shortcut as well, and mine leaked. Replaced it, it leaked again.

Worked for you, didn't work for me. Installing next to the pumpkin however has worked for hundreds on this forum.

To each their own. But worring about effects on carrier shims is an invalid reason.
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