[MCHERM]

so heres the situation.... i have successfully done the soa with stock springs and have been riding on them for a good month or so and the springs especially the front, are starting to sag real bad. at the moment im sorta tight on cash and am looking for a way to make my jeep get back the lift and spring arch that it had before, without getting new springs. any ideas? or how have any of you all dealed with this same problem?

thanks alot
DJ

[Macklin96]

add-a-leafs would work

[only_in_a_yj]

Maybe replace your springs with a better set of used stock ones. You can probably find somebody installing a lift and get their old ones for real cheap.

[girly04LJ]

Add a leaf but make sure you get full ones. short ones are cheep but they also break your stock springs.

[Joe Dillard]

For the extream tightwad measure the length of the main leaf & go to the junkyard and get single leafs that fits the bill which are slightly shorter than the main leaf is. Ensure it's not too long (unless you don't mind cutting it down) or too short, or too narrow, or too wide. Don't get leafs that's too thick either, or overly fatigued. Make sure the centerpin hole matches what you need as well.

Then get the stock clamps off as gingerly as possible (there is more than 1 factory style clamp). Some can be reused by the tightwad - while others can not. Mount the junkyard leaf under the main leaf & clamp it back together.

Myself, I would never go this route - I tend to buy the higher quality parts from the start. But this is an option for the tight budget folks.

[MCHERM]

I think i may go the add a leave route but wat do you mean by full length add a leaves?
thanks for the input everyone!!!!!
DJ

[rustywrangler]

Originally Posted by MCHERM

I think i may go the add a leave route but wat do you mean by full length add a leaves?
thanks for the input everyone!!!!!
DJ

Some add a leafs are meirly a "helper spring" that goes on the bottom of the pack usually shorter or as short as the smallest leaf. Full length ones go into the pack right under the main leaf and are almost the same length as the main.

[MCHERM]

o ok i gotcha.
thanks

[ghost183]

i had the same issues, but i added leafs in the pack, i used an old set of RC 4" lift springs, i tore them apart and added the 2nd largest and 4th largest spring from the main leaf to the front and rear stock pack, they rode slightly hard at first, till they set, now they are great

and oh, my YJ weighs 4300 pounds without me and tools.. with me and tools im estimating 4550-4600 pounds, so you might not want to add both leafs unless you plan on loading the jeep

[fratis]

why do you need the lift back. are your tires grinding on the sheet metal as you drive down the road. my 2.5" springs are sagged almost flat and they work pretty darn good that way. dont listen to those who will rehash the "negative arch is bad for your springs stuff." everything is situational. i agree negative arch on a 4" lift spring would be bad. for a spring that is already almost flat it really isnt a factor.

[ghost183]

Originally Posted by fratis

why do you need the lift back. are your tires grinding on the sheet metal as you drive down the road. my 2.5" springs are sagged almost flat and they work pretty darn good that way. dont listen to those who will rehash the "negative arch is bad for your springs stuff." everything is situational. i agree negative arch on a 4" lift spring would be bad. for a spring that is already almost flat it really isnt a factor.

hey fratis.. you got a side shot of yours? and whos 2.5 springs are u using?

i did mine cause of my weight, but i was running a neg arch almost all the time, and in the rear, the arch would get worse under acceleration and the even more sagging, and not to mention wrap, so.. prolonged neg arch + wrap = u joint issues, besides, to be %100, my initial reasons were looks and brake dive in that order.. looks alot better to me with space between the tires and fender