Like the others have already elluded to - but this point REALLY
needs to be driven home......do ALOT
of research! It will pay off big dividends and you'll be thanking yourself for going through the pains now, rather than paying the piper again due to doing things multiple times as so many have done before you.
It's also apparent you're already doing some searching by asking here - but it's going to take LOTS of homework & you really need to set some goals before you begin.
PLUS, each budget is different - so knowing that right up-front will help you decide where to try to cut some expenses.
Sure, as a given, most everybody wants to do it as cheap as possible. However, for every corner that is cut, there's going to be a certain "price" to pay, or often a little less desireable result when all is said & done depending on which corners are cut or less desirable/quality parts are used or inferior techniques when dialing everything in. It's a trade-off, not to mention what you are willing to do yourself as compared to what a shop or other source/friends will be doing to pitch-in along the way.
I ended up with ~7.5" of suspension lift, but now have ~8.5" total due to a body lift I installed to help make room for an Atlas. Part of this was due to the 1.5" RE SOA leafs, the larger 8.8 axle tubes (3.25" vs 2.5" for the rear axle), the simi-tall RE anti-wrap perches, 3/8" Boom shackles, and the use of the MORE 7/16" mini riser block that comes with the MORE Steering Correction Kit. Plus, an additional 1" on top of the ~7.5" due to installing a body lift for Atlas clearance reasons.
Here's a list of some of the items that I used. Also, take into account I swapped in a Ford 8.8 rear axle at the same time.
RE 1.5" SOA front springs, PN RE1444
RE 1.5" SOA rear springs, PN RE1445
RE SOA spring bushing kit, PN RE1492
RE antiwrap spring perches, PN 1920
RE antiwrap spring perches, PN 1930
RE Weld-on shock mounts (2 kits), PN RE2020
RE U-bolts for D-30, PN RE2420
RE U-bolt kit for F8.8, 3.25"x8"x9/16", PN RE1230
Rancho RS9000 shocks, rear 2 RS9010's ~26", front 2 RS9012's ~32" (changed these out for Fox shocks)
MORE Steering correction kit, Stage 1, PN 9930
MORE front shock hoops, PN SH300
MORE rear upper shock relocation mounts, PN 9950
'99 Ford 8.8 rear axle, 31 spline, w/discs
F8.8 4.56 ring & pinion (Yukon)
Ring & pinion master install kit (bearings, shims, gear marking compound)
ARB locker, PN RD-81
31" front brake
hoses (All Tubes & Hoses shop in Phoenix, AZ)
Rear hydraulic & e-brake fabed hoses/lines
Spicer yoke adapter for F8.8 w/1310 series ujoint, PN 2-2-1379
Items I installed some time after initial SOA was done:
Hand grooved 35x12.5 MT/R's
M/T 15x8" Classic II's w/3.75" backspacing
Warn 5x4.5" Hub Conversion Kit
Warn chromo D30 axle inners
MORE Traction Bar, PN TB500
Front 3/8" Booms
1" Daystar body lift
Atlas II w/5.0 gear reduction
East County new F&R HD driveshafts
Superior Axle beta tester Super 88 kit
Homebrew front axle truss
Homebrew steering box brace
Homebrew tube fenders
Fox emulsion shocks
Already installed, prior to SOA:
Drop pitman arm
JKS disco's (not really needed, tossed in trash)
M.I.T. SYE (removed & installed twin stick Atlas 5.0)
East County CV rear driveshaft
D30 4.56 gears
D30 ARB, compressor, harness & switches
Extended bump stops (ended-up being removed/tossed)
3/8" Rear Boomerangs (center support cross removed from boom's to clear reverse eye leafs)
33x12.50 bias ply TSL's (upgraded to 35 MT/R's)
I have removed the F&R stock tracbars
I removed my old 4" lift kit & it went to a new home in MO to a fellow JUer
Tired D35C, 4.56 & ARB went to a new home in San Diego for salvage parts to another fellow Jeeper
By using the RE reverse eye leafs, anti wrap perches, and the stock frame mounted rear forward bump stops, this seems to have minimized axle wrap on my set up, but only to a degree. Yes, it still does have some, but I‘ve installed a MORE traction bar & this has helped. However, the main leaf comes in contact with the bumpstop far sooner than if the leafs were wrapped in a normal fashion. Is it ideal? Nope, but it's doing the trick for now, and I'm addressing/considering other solutions in the future.
I took the more traditional approach when I decided I wanted more from my old SUA lift set-up. It worked for several years as SUA, but after considering lots of avenues & where I wanted to step towards, I decided SOA was the route for me.
I did LOTS of homework and things have turned out fairly well, and also as well as lots of others here who dig & search, make numerous phone calls, emails, PM's etc etc.
I gathered parts & did serious research for ~5 months, but it didn't stop there! I've toyed with a few other components after the SOA conversion to help dial-it-in a little better.
Sure, you're going to hear some folks say things like:
Too much $
Too much head ache
Too many steering issues
Too many brake issues
Too many axle wrap problems
I'll be too tall & my COG will suffer
My rear axle is a POS & I don't want to swap it out yet to take advantage of SOA
Too much uncertainty if all these items will work properly once installed
--Plus all sorts of other myths & reasons or sometimes excuses why SOA isn't right for them, and rightly so, it's not the end-all thing to do.
For those who are hesitant to tackle a conversion like this - it's better they go another route & hopefully they'll be happy for a while with the results they choose. A simple SUA kit where someone else has done their homework for them is the usual option, and is a good one if a quality SUA kit is used knowing it's particulars or limitations. They are 2 different animals.
SOA does the trick for me. It's been SOA for almost 6 years. In hind-sight, there's not alot I would have done differently given my budget.