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Snorkel

1K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  TellyDSP 
#1 ·
In order to avoid any chance of inhaling water, I was going to invest in a snorkel. Not planning on going swimming, yet, but I know that surprises do happen. I've been looking online and only found ARB snorkels. Does anyone else make snorkel kits for YJ's, and which are the best out there. Is anyone running a snorkel that would like to comment on them. Also what other waterproofing would need to be done to be the most effective. Finally, is relocating the tailpipe(like mil specs) necessary or is water ingestion through the rear not a huge problem?

TIA
Craig
 
#2 ·
ARB is the only kit im aware of. however there was a great write up in the projects section on making your own... however it doesnt seem to be there anymore! :confused:

as to water up the tail pipe, its not really an issue unless your motor stalls. the exhaust exiting does a good job of keeping water out
 
#3 ·
My "snorkel" consists of a pair of Turbo Firefly Intercooler air-scoops mounted on my hood .. I will be running the hoses to secondary air-boxes on my frame, then the air will again travel to my primary air-cleaner.

It should do a good job of keeping most of the water from the engine.
 
#4 ·
As far as I know ARB is the only manfactured snorkel available. I followed the write up in the Jeep Projects section and made my own off that idea, but I changed a few things. I am very happy with the overall result. Though I have yet to trail test it as I am not finished with the water proofing of my YJ as of yet.

The pressure of the exhaust coming out your tailpipe will keep the water out just fine so long as you dont stall.

Be sure to extend the breather lines on your transmission, diffs, and t-case. Seal your distributor cap with a little silicone and add a breather line off the top of the breather on it. Use di electric grease on ALL of your underhood electronic stuff. Sparkplugs, wires, all the harness plugs, etc. Seal your under hood Power distribution center with a bead of silicone,

And finally get rid of your clutch driven fan! Replace it with an electric fan. (this is the last mod I still have to do before i am ready to test my snorkel. Found one at Pep Boys for 70 bucks) The clutch driven fan can bend when run through water and it will tear your radiator to shreds. Just shut off the electric fan when you are about to ente the water.
 
#5 ·
92 Green YJ said:
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And finally get rid of your clutch driven fan! Replace it with an electric fan. (this is the last mod I still have to do before i am ready to test my snorkel. Found one at Pep Boys for 70 bucks) The clutch driven fan can bend when run through water and it will tear your radiator to shreds. Just shut off the electric fan when you are about to ente the water.
What about viscosity fans (when you can turn the fan with your hand even though the engine is not moving)? Heard they were ok in the water because when water hits them they lose momentum and slow to a stop with the water friction, rather than the common belt driven fan that will just tear on through due to the tough drive belt locking its movement? Any comments\experiences with viscosity fans?
 
#6 ·
A cheaper electric fan that many will use as a replacement on a Jeep is one from the wreckers.

Look for a Ford Taurus wagon running the big V6 engine. The electric fan in those wagons pulls the highest CFM rating of any OEM electric fan on the market today.
 
#7 ·
NaeKid said:
A cheaper electric fan that many will use as a replacement on a Jeep is one from the wreckers.

Look for a Ford Taurus wagon running the big V6 engine. The electric fan in those wagons pulls the highest CFM rating of any OEM electric fan on the market today.
Excelent advice on the fan NAEKID,They are plentiful in the junkyards and easy to install...
 
#8 ·
The question I have is, do you run the fan all the time, or does a thermostat work, or do you turn it on when you need it. I don't understand the system. I don't know much about the factory one, but I'd assume it runs all the time, because it's on the belt, but how do electrics work(not how they work, i got the wiring, but the usage)?

TIA
 
#9 ·
If I was you, I would dual-switch the fan. Run the fan off of a temperature sensor (steal the one from the doner Taurus) that is wired off of the battery. Run a secondary wire to your dash which would allow you to interupt the power from the battery through the sensor to the fan.

Doing so, you can over-ride the sensor while travelling through water to stop the fan from spinning water around your engine bay. Make sure you turn the power back on for the fan when you get out of water to save yourself from overheating.
 
#11 ·
Thanx for the info. I would appreciate a little more bout this sensor you speak of. I'm assuming it works pretty much like a thermostat, does it take care of turning the fan on an off by itself during normal operations, no activating needed from me? The wiring won't be a problem with the switch for the interrupt.
Please give me a little more info about this sensor(loc, descrip) so that way I can pull it too. Also how much should I be expecting to spend for the fan and sensor, and whats involved in the mounting. Sorry they keep coming. How does one pull the stock fan and make up for the slack in the drive belt?
 
#12 ·
There are 4 nuts/bolts holding the fan in place .. leave the water-pump pulley alone .. just remove the fan bolts, remove fan (and its clutch) and put the bolts back in and you should be fine.

As far as the electric system - there is a temperature switch on the Taurus - just follow the power wires to the switch and pull it as well. It would turn the fan on around 150 degrees. For the manual switch, make sure that the power is cut near the battery, not on the side of the fan.
 
#14 ·
I have never heard of that type of fan. anyway, here are some pics of my set up.

After some work and some figuring, and some borrowing of ideas from other systems, here it is. my home made snorkel system!

piece breakdown. costs will vary.
1 small can "Rain N Shine" PVC Glue. (its got the light blue label on it)
10' length of 2" B;lack ABS pipe
1 90 degree 3" ABS Elbow
1 5' length of 3" ABS (cause nobody would sell me just 1' of the stuff!)
1 3" ABS to 2" ABS reducer
1 Stainless Steel Paint can with Lid
1 K&N Filter cone (dont remember he number. it was one i was previously using for a cold air intake and it happened to fit in the can.)
2 each 2" ABS connectors with nuts
1 Tube RTV Black Silicone
Misc 2" 90 degree, 45 degree, and 20 degree elbows. Will vary depending on how you decide to run your pipe.
2 each spring clips (will add two more eventually)
Some big *** zip ties

Here is the head piece. I found this drain thing at home depot in the ABS aisle and made it work. by finding a piece of ABS it would sort of fit into. Then I glued it in with Rain N Shine PVC gue and silicone. the electrical tape around it is just for good measure. I also put some gutter gaurd inside so smaller debrs wont get in. then i glued the 3" 90 degree elbow to a 4" long piece of 3" ABS, then glued on the converter, then the main pipe. (actually i dry fitted everything first and ran it where i wanted it. then when i was happy with it, i took it apart and glued everything piece by piece.)


Here is the main body section made of 2" ABS


a close up of the head piece. its a 3" ABS 90 degree elbow into a 3"-2" ABS converter.


here is where it goes into the engine bay. it enters just under the radiator overflow and windshield washer bottles. I used a 2" ABS union on the other side of th fender to press em together nice and tight, then used RTV around the hole on both sides.


and here is the air box. It is a stainless steel paint can that i found in the paint department at home depot. Then I found some latches and mounted them to the can with rivets. I cut a hole in the side for the 2" ABS input, then another in the top with another screw on 2" ABS piece. Then I sealed it all up with silicone. I found a K&N cone that fit and dropped it on in the can.

So far it has worked great and i think it looks pretty good. Have yet to water test her though.
 
#17 ·
I'd just rather be prepared than treat my engine to a drink on me, and my mechanic to a lot more drinks, on me. I think its a good investment. Not only for insurance, but also for that time when the mecca of crawling or 4-wheeling is just across the river, and you're kickin yourself you didnt get that SOA or extra 5 inches of lift.

My .02
 
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