Skid Plate removal - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 14 Old 12-17-2010, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
mikai
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Skid Plate removal

Started working on my transfer case problems and when I started to remove the skid plate that covers the transfer case either the bolts broke off or they would just turn and not come out. After thinking about it and realizing that the plate had to come off, I took out the grinder and took matters into my on hands. After grinding off three of the five, the other two broke, the plate finally came off! My question is, How would the any of you guys advice me to put it back on? Thanks for all the advice ahead of time!

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post #2 of 14 Old 12-17-2010, 07:53 PM
SnowdogMarc
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I had a nut strip out in the frame on mine. I used a hole saw as close to the size of the nut for the bolt as I could get to cut what was left of it out. I then welded in a new nut to the frame in the hole I made. It's held up great for the past year.

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post #3 of 14 Old 12-17-2010, 08:27 PM
DMKJ
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You can grind off the nutsert and replace them. there are some write ups about fixing the nutsert in JF.
I chose to use welded nutsert.





There are also bolt in nutserts if welding is not an option. Some guys have also drilled through the frame (I personally did not like that option)

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post #4 of 14 Old 12-17-2010, 10:32 PM
SmokeEater522
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i welded a nut to a washer and then welded that the the frame b/c i had to replace 4 out of 6 anyway, so i just did them all that way, seems to be holding up fine so far
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post #5 of 14 Old 12-17-2010, 11:19 PM
notmyj
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Here is how to fix it....

Cut a window into the side of the frame



You can just score the top of the window so you can bend it up and out of the way...



Remove the captured nut that is spinning in the frame and weld in a new nut...



Then bend the window back down, weld it up, grind it smooth and paint. Repeat as needed...



For the ones that have broken bolts in them, you may need to cut the bottom of the frame out where the captured nut is and replace the nut and section of the frame. you can replace the bottom of teh frame with 1/8"x 2" steel strap. Cut it to fit the section you cut out, drill the new hole in the right place, and weld a new nut to the new section of steel strap.



Then weld the strap back into the frame with the nut, grind smooth and paint.

If you cant or dont weld..... Not really sure what to do.... This is the only way I have done them.

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post #6 of 14 Old 12-18-2010, 11:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notmyj View Post
Cut a window into the side of the frame


To each their own, and I'm not bad mouthing what you did, but IMHO it would be way easier to drill the bottom hole to the size of the nut and simply weld it back in from the bottom. You could easily recess the nut a little by screwing in the bolt and holding the nut up a little to give it a little more frame bite when welding. That would be more than strong enough if the weld is done correctly.



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post #7 of 14 Old 12-18-2010, 04:46 PM
SnowdogMarc
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I have to agree with RockWorm. Cutting a big hole in the frame is not an option for me. I've seen too many frames that were professionally welded like that get stressed and crack right at the repair.

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post #8 of 14 Old 12-18-2010, 05:13 PM
gkainz
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damn y'all sure go thru a lot of work when you can just get a replacement nutsert from McMaster-Carr, Fastenal or even the dealer and just put the damn thing back in the original hole - no cutting, welding, dancing around ...
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-18-2010, 05:32 PM
SmokeEater522
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^^looked at the dealer option and refused to pay $10 a freakin nut for them, so i broke out the grinder and welder...and din't have to cut any holes in the frame
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-19-2010, 07:08 AM
GreenRenegade
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Good grief, you people make everything so complicated.
Ever hear of duct tape? It's upgraded now. No longer 40 mph tape, it's now 100 mph tape and everyone knows a YJ can't go over 92 mph. \
Duct tape is stronger than carbon fiber, 1/4" steel plate, and will definitely outlast a weld.
It's a space age material that wont rust, discolor, burn, or even get wet.
Simply tear a strip (it can only be torn by hand) that will span your frame rails and hold up your transfer case. Then tear a few more strips to use as a skid plate.
Voila, it's that easy.
Disclaimer: NOT REALLY! For those who might believe this, I'm joking. As you may have seen on TV, Don't try This At Home (or in your garage, shop, workplace...)

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post #11 of 14 Old 12-20-2010, 05:56 AM
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post #12 of 14 Old 12-20-2010, 08:34 AM
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-20-2010, 07:13 PM
deeremechanic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenRenegade View Post
Good grief, you people make everything so complicated.
Ever hear of duct tape? It's upgraded now. No longer 40 mph tape, it's now 100 mph tape and everyone knows a YJ can't go over 92 mph. \
Duct tape is stronger than carbon fiber, 1/4" steel plate, and will definitely outlast a weld.
It's a space age material that wont rust, discolor, burn, or even get wet.
Simply tear a strip (it can only be torn by hand) that will span your frame rails and hold up your transfer case. Then tear a few more strips to use as a skid plate.
Voila, it's that easy.
Disclaimer: NOT REALLY! For those who might believe this, I'm joking. As you may have seen on TV, Don't try This At Home (or in your garage, shop, workplace...)

Happy Politically Correct Holidays,
Dan
THAT IS GREAT!!!! REDNECK FOR LIFE
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post #14 of 14 Old 12-20-2010, 07:16 PM
deeremechanic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeEater522 View Post
i welded a nut to a washer and then welded that the the frame b/c i had to replace 4 out of 6 anyway, so i just did them all that way, seems to be holding up fine so far
I also did this becuase there was not alot of good frame steel there becuase it had rusted and thats why they spun out like that for me. i found that out when i replaced my tranfercase this past weekend. i beat the h*ll out of it to make sure it was gunna hold and it held up just fine.
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