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Unread 11-02-2005, 08:04 PM   #1
StuckInMud94
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skid plate falling...any day now

i had posted before about my skid plate problems, 2 bolts on one side came out, and i cant thread a new one in there, and the remaining one on that side just flops in place as if the threading in the frame rail broke off but is still attached to the bolt. on the other sideone bolt has broken out. how in hell do i repair this? my trannys going to fall. i cant get into the frame as it has no rust.

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Unread 11-02-2005, 09:05 PM   #2
JEEPINWI
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Well, since you don't have a convenient rust spot on your frame like I do, you can't do my repair method. Have you though about welding some vertical brackets to the sides of the skid plate so you could mount to the sides of the frame rails? I thought about doing that and probably will do just that when my bottom rail rusts all the way through. By then, I should probably be looking for a new frame!

On a second thought, my buddy built a custom tranny skid plate for his V8 YJ project that was sweet as hell. It mounted to the outside of the frame rails, 2 bolts per side. I think it was made with some angle iron, round tubing, and flat steel.
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Unread 11-02-2005, 09:10 PM   #3
91GTA350
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I have though about this a little as i have one bolt that spins in place. other than welding the vertical braces like mentioned above, you could cut a hole in your frame to access the back side of the bolt, then weld it shut once you weld a new nut inside the frame. of course i wouldnt do this, just throughing one of my ideas i had out there. i personally would go for the vertical braces and putting a few bolts horizintally through the middle of the frame on each side. sounds secure to me, but i would be very carefull whatever i did since this is a major part of the jeep.
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Unread 11-02-2005, 10:51 PM   #4
sentinal02
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verticle add ons would be something i would do as well. most of your flat bottom skids are designed to bolt to the frame this way as well. they don't necessarily have to be welded to the frame though. they could be welded to the skid (or bolted as well) and bolted through the frame. the hard part is getting a nut on the inside of the jeep above the skid though. if you want to bolt it, i would suggest some 1/2" bar stock cut into 2" squares (or so) and drill/tap those to act as nuts. then, bolt the verticle pieces in place (doesn't have to be super tight) and weld those threaded tabs to the frame. the larger surface area to weld to will help keep the tabs from breaking loose at the wrong time the way the stock tabs inside the frame do.
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Unread 11-02-2005, 11:02 PM   #5
91GTA350
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1/2" seems a little excessive to me. hell the chassis is only 1/8th or so (thats what my cj friends say. i would figure 1/4" would be fine, or 3/8" if you wanted heavy duty. why do you wnat to go so big?
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-89 sahara 258: [U]HAD[/U] a peugot and a d35
5/15/05 - took ownership and started money pit
9/17/05 - found a 3.5' deep water hole
2/18/06 - destroyed spiders in d35
4.2/AX-15/NP-231/SYE/30/8.8/3.55/RE 2.5"/31"
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Unread 11-03-2005, 11:24 AM   #6
StuckInMud94
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i think this is what you guys are trying to get at, tell me if im right. im thinking of welding my TC drop brackets (long square steel tubing) to the frame, and putting a piece of flat steel through them to bolt the skid plate to.
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Unread 11-03-2005, 12:39 PM   #7
smokinsilverrt
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you could drill through the frame and use long bolts and nuts its works really good.my buddies tj is like that and hes had no issues at all and its been like that for like 1year
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Unread 11-03-2005, 01:22 PM   #8
StuckInMud94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokinsilverrt
you could drill through the frame and use long bolts and nuts its works really good.my buddies tj is like that and hes had no issues at all and its been like that for like 1year
does he have nuts on the other side of the bolts?
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Unread 11-03-2005, 01:29 PM   #9
SLINKY-YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StuckInMud94
does he have nuts on the other side of the bolts?
your best bet and easiest way is just weld some new nuts into the frame thats what I did and it was a simple fix why bother fabbing somthing up when you can just weld some nuts into the frame just like it came from the factory.
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Unread 11-03-2005, 02:22 PM   #10
JEEPINWI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLINKY-YJ
your best bet and easiest way is just weld some new nuts into the frame thats what I did and it was a simple fix why bother fabbing somthing up when you can just weld some nuts into the frame just like it came from the factory.
This idea would work great also. Cut out the bottom of the frame rail, weld new nuts onto the bolt holes, and weld the frame rail back into place.
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Unread 11-03-2005, 02:33 PM   #11
smokinsilverrt
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yes there is nuts on the other side of the bolts. forget about cutting the frame and welding it back together if you dont want
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Unread 11-03-2005, 03:34 PM   #12
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91GTA350
1/2" seems a little excessive to me. hell the chassis is only 1/8th or so (thats what my cj friends say. i would figure 1/4" would be fine, or 3/8" if you wanted heavy duty. why do you wnat to go so big?
just the tabs are 1/2 inch and that's for good thread engagement when you tap the plate. look at how thick the average 1/2"-13 course thread nut is. you want something thick enough to give you good engagement so you don't strip it out. but then, you really wouldn't have to use 1/2" bolts on the sides so you could probably get away with thinner stock.
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Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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Unread 11-03-2005, 07:36 PM   #13
StuckInMud94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLINKY-YJ
your best bet and easiest way is just weld some new nuts into the frame thats what I did and it was a simple fix why bother fabbing somthing up when you can just weld some nuts into the frame just like it came from the factory.
wouldnt welding new nuts into the frame not be right because of the fact that the skid plate would be another 3/4" or so because of the thickness of the nuts? what if i just welded SMALLER nuts into the frame holes and bought smaller bolts? i really dont want to cut into my frame, but if i have to i will i suppose
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Unread 11-03-2005, 07:45 PM   #14
91GTA350
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right now i am getting scared. this reminds me of homework problems from a year or two ago with fasteners. right now the list of assumptions is getting bigger. While i think it is a good idea to drill through the chassis and use long bolts, i worry that the longer bolt will have different stresses applied to it and might want to shear.
Sentinal, i missunderstood what you were saying before. Definately you would want the 1/2" if you are threading into the steel. I was thinking of still using a nut and bolt. I think with you could get away with the thinner stock for the verticals if you had a nut and bolt. Also i think if i were to be putting bolts through horizintally, i would get 3/8" bolts and use 5 of them. I like to put extra fasteners in things. If it isnt needed to make it structural, then it looks cooler I wanted to pull out some info on the amount of force that it would take to break these bolts either way we had them, but after a few minutes i realized it would be as hard as my homework, and its the weekend (weekends start on thursday in college).

EDIT:
Stuckinmud, i think he means to weld the nuts on the inside of the chassis tube. but since you brought it up, i bet you could weld them on outside the chassis. Iff you do this to all 6 studs, then you would effectivly have a trasfercase drop. I actually like this idea. In all cases never use a bolt smaller than original and always use grade 8 or metric 9.8 or higher grade bolt.
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-89 sahara 258: [U]HAD[/U] a peugot and a d35
5/15/05 - took ownership and started money pit
9/17/05 - found a 3.5' deep water hole
2/18/06 - destroyed spiders in d35
4.2/AX-15/NP-231/SYE/30/8.8/3.55/RE 2.5"/31"

Last edited by 91GTA350; 11-03-2005 at 07:49 PM.. Reason: more info
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Unread 11-03-2005, 08:06 PM   #15
sentinal02
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91, i too would go with more bolts and smaller since you end up with more surface area to resist the shear and you're not sacrificing frame rail strength as much with smaller holes as you would with larger ones (bending moments and stress concentrations and all that).

Stuck, unless you want to drill out the holes bigger to fit a 1/2" nut in there i wouldn't recommend going with smaller bolts like you're thinking. that drive train gets heavy and the only nut size that i think you might be able to fit in that whole would be like a 5/16 or 1/4". i've got a 3/8" nut sitting right here in front of me and it's definitely about 5/8" wide so it won't go in those 1/2 holes. and yes, welding nuts to the bottom of the frame would act like a t-case drop. long bolts all the way through the rail with a nut on top would work but personally i think that would be a B**** to work with without a body lift since you'd have to fish the nut just right over the top hole while felling the bolt up through the rail. if you've got room to get a welder in there to tack the nut in place it might work ok though. short of drilling the holes bigger, or cutting into the frame to repair/replace the existing nuts though, i don't think you can get away without some small amount of drop. might be time to go tummy tucker and just get the version that screws to the side of the rail
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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