Single axle conversion
I'm sure this has been brought up already however I'm tired of going into the search and coming back with ten thousand of the subject I'm not looking for. Anyway, so I've been wheeling a couple times and four isn't working low or high. I come home change the transfer case fluid and it works again so I know there is an issue with water getting into the t-case I can fix that but when we were looking at the front axle yesterday had one of my buddies fully explain to me the process of the front actuator set up with the Vacuum lines. I don't want to rely on a fickle vacuum to get me out of a tight spot so here comes the question what is the best process for deleting this I was thinking of a single axel conversion but wanted some input as to process and parts that will do the trick.
oooh you almost had it
If you want to do it on the cheap, pull out the vac housing lock it in and jam it in place with a clamp or something. A lot of ways to rig it. Ive seen people slit tubeing and put it over the rail and secure it with a clamp or even duct tape. LOL If you dont have something duct taped, your not wheeling hard enough.
Your limited slip differential sucks.
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
I like the idea of putting in the tj axle, don't get me wrong I like the posi lock that guy wrote up but I want to have something solid that way I don't have to worry about it slipping or pulling apart in anyway.
pull the collar fork out, drill a small hole in it, put a bolt and nut in it to keep the collar locked together. you wont break the collar no matter how hard you wheel. It will cost you 30cents if you dont have a nut and bolt.
First Jeep was an 1989 YJ, 6 cylinder 4.2L , 258. Nuttered and TeamRushed, Weber 38 DGES, Now, I'm venturing into the world of Grand Cherokees
Here is a way that cost nothing to do if your front drive shaft is balanced. If not less than $100 for balancing. But with what you are after if the drive shaft is not balanced then either way it will cost that.
A 89 yj with a 4.0 aw4 sye out of an 92xj. Now the hard part is done time to get it up in the air just a bit. Working on 8.8 with 3.73 and lsd for the rear. and new D30 hp with 3.73 .
For those who have not figured this out I'm old school but can handle the new too.
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
tj passenger shaft. put the front end on jack stands. remove front wheels. pull the frong shafts. take out the diff by taking out the 4 bolts. take out the vacume assembly. with a broom stick and a hammer remove the outer axle seal. buy a TJ inner axle seal and put it in that location. (i used a broom handle and a large socket and a hammer to set the new seal from the driver side). put the diff back in, followed by the axles. i gutted the vacume unit on the axle and plugged the hole so i could use the housing to seal the axle. remove all the vac. lines, and plug off the 4 wholes in the rubber fitting on the transfer case with 4 screws or whatever. Thats how i did mine and it is fine. sometimes you get away without balancing your driveshaft, mine seems to be okay.
the best option is to install a TJ single shaft and the correct size axle seal.
The cable actuated systems can be trouble. In fact I have only seen people that have issues with them; cable break, needs adjustment, knob breaks, have to drive forward and reverse a few times while pulling, etc.... many of JF have had good experiences with them but I can't speak to that.
Originally Posted by ionakana
If you go with TJ shafts, swap both sides so the u-joints with be the same and stronger. Unless you just want to carry two different sizes for spares. Earlier XJ's with one piece shafts used the same joints as pre '95 YJ's, I've got a set of those for spares. I believe '95 + XJ's also have the larger joints, that's what mine (not the spares) came out of anyway and they are.
Originally Posted by George Orwell
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