If I have one nemesis with my YJ it's not rust, it's not death wobble, heck it's not even that I have a 2.5L engine. It's all the gawd***n bolts and screws I break while removing stock parts.
Here's a list of the bolts I have broken off (or discovered already broken) in the past month:
1. One of the bolts holding the skid plate up. The nut insdie the frame came loose, leaving me no way of removing the bolt without cutting it.
2. The bottom bolt holding the drivers side front fender to the firewall.
3. One screw holding the IAC onto the throttle body.
4. 3 out of 8 bolts holding the fuel pump relay into the tank.
5. And the worst of them all, a bolt holding the exhaust manifold to the block. I spent 4 hours trying to get this bolt out over the weekend. The damn thing is snapped off inside the block and damn near impossible to get out.
So I want want to say, I hate you broken bolts that are stuck inside my Jeep.
LOL and how many torques bits have you snapped off trying to get the bolts out....
Funny you should say that, I snapped one yesterday trying to get fender bolt out. I drilled it out real good, got the bolt remover thing pounded into the bolt and gave it a good wrenching, just to have it snap off and get stuck inside the bolt. So now I have a stuck bolt, with a stuck bit inside of it.
If I suspect a bolt is going to be a PITA, I give it a shot of Kroil for a couple days before attacking. When I found a crack in my car's bellhousing, it even worked on some bolts stuck in an old 56 chevy bellhousing that was sitting in a junkyard for years. The rusted exhaust bolts on my 56 chevy had been in place since the day the car was made, and Kroil made them twist out without too much fuss.
The enemy has been embedded for years. Kroil has significantly degraded it's ability to fight back.
You have to start somewhere to get to the middle of nowhere.
Its been said so many times but i will post it again. Case hardened bolts to replace the ones you take out, it makes all the difference in the world the next time you have to do a job!
yes, but even then, use plenty of anti-sieze
or... if it's not a structurally critical bolt (IE: exhaust, body bolts (NOT body mounts, but the bolts holding the tub, grille & fenders to each other,) etc) then go stainless (and even then, I usually put a tiny dab of anti-sieze on em
[FONT="Comic Sans MS"][COLOR="Blue"]Sean B. - Schenectady, NY - 95 YJ, 350/700r4/NP241, JB Shorty SYE, 8.8 rear, 2" BDS, 1" homebrew shackles, Daystar 1" BL, TJ flares, 35x12.50 General Grabber AT2 on 15x10 Bart D-Truckers, Polyshield polycarbonate windshield, HD over/under crossover steering
[/COLOR] [COLOR="Red"]swap/build thread: [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/after-almost-4-years-finally-my-own-build-swap-thread-1542284/[/url][/COLOR][/FONT]
Or better yet, pick up your project Jeep in Texas, Arizona, New Mexico or the deep non coastal south and don't worry about rust. I have a Georgia '89 YJ and haven't seen any rust anywhere. Nor have I ever had a bolt removal cause any difficulty. Only cost a couple of hundred dollars to have one trucked to the rust belt, Which is what you are going to spend re-welding your rotted frame.