School me - lockers - Page 3 - JeepForum.com
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post #31 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 03:15 PM Thread Starter
Rproject
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Hey Honey! Can I have $300 please? I have to "fix' something on the Wrangler. ;-)


1996 White ZJ
1987 Maroon YJ (sideways build)
1996 Forest Green XJ

The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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post #32 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
Rproject
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I guess I'm down to Spartan versus Aussie. Let the showdown begin.

1996 White ZJ
1987 Maroon YJ (sideways build)
1996 Forest Green XJ

The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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post #33 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 03:17 PM
squarelite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rproject
Thanks. I just looked at the Aussie. Looks a lot like the Spartan, except better warranty, 100% US made and claims "brake job easy" installation. Incidentally, how did you imploded the Lock Right's?
I broke every single pin in the a couple times. It's just a garbage design with too loose of tolerances.
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post #34 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 04:55 PM
timatoe
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I put an Aussie in mine and it worked well. If you're going to go to a selectable, I'd highly recommend the ARB, but pretty much any of the big names are going to be good in that aspect.

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post #35 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 07:33 PM
Tom95YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe
I put an Aussie in mine and it worked well. If you're going to go to a selectable, I'd highly recommend the ARB, but pretty much any of the big names are going to be good in that aspect.
Eaton E lockers are proving to be more reliable the ARB

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post #36 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 08:01 PM
squarelite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom95YJ
Eaton E lockers are proving to be more reliable the ARB
By who? I'm not disputing it because I run arb lockers, but just because you are the first person I've ever heard say that. I think any selectable locker has the propensity for failure just because of the additional moving parts and the fact that it relies on an outside source to power it. Last time out in my father in laws, we lost the front arb. It was an install issue though. The copper supply line got chewed by the gears. My daily driver truck has a factory electronic locker and time will tell how it holds up. I had issues with my Toyota e locker in my last dd. All electrical issues with it. I personally think that the Detroit is the most reliable locker there is. It sacrifices road manners for awesome off road performance. I ran one for 7 years in the rear of my last yj. It was great. Never an issue. I got used to driving with it on the road. After having arb's though, I forgot how nice it is to be able to drive with an open diff on the road. Lay orbitals hard as I want around a corner and no ill effects.
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post #37 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 08:21 PM
Dingo1033
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Ok I've read this thread twice now and am a bit confused. Hopefully not high jacking the thread, but making clarity. If a lunchbox locker is installed does this make the front drive shaft continuously spin while in 2wd rolling down the road? Does one have to install them on both front and rear diffs?

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post #38 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 08:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom95YJ View Post
Eaton E lockers are proving to be more reliable the ARB
OK

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo1033 View Post
Ok I've read this thread twice now and am a bit confused. Hopefully not high jacking the thread, but making clarity. If a lunchbox locker is installed does this make the front drive shaft continuously spin while in 2wd rolling down the road? Does one have to install them on both front and rear diffs?
Yes the front shaft will spin, that may or may not be a problem. Some people have a problem with front driveshaft vibrations. I didn't have this issue, but it's easy enough to fix if you do.

No you don't have to put them front and rear. I ran only the front for a while, Mr.B here on the forum runs an Aussie up front and an ARB in the 8.8.

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post #39 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 08:30 PM
Dingo1033
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Now with that front shaft spinning will that cause a front seal on the TC to go out quicker. I know for front shaft vibrations you have it balanced at a driveline shop correct?

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post #40 of 95 Old 09-27-2013, 08:56 PM
squarelite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo1033
Now with that front shaft spinning will that cause a front seal on the TC to go out quicker. I know for front shaft vibrations you have it balanced at a driveline shop correct?
It is literally a 5 minute job to balance it and a 5 minute job to pull the driveline out.

Tj's spin their front drive shafts 100% of the time with a stock front axle. Not many issue there.
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post #41 of 95 Old 09-28-2013, 02:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squarelite View Post
It is literally a 5 minute job to balance it and a 5 minute job to pull the driveline out.

Tj's spin their front drive shafts 100% of the time with a stock front axle. Not many issue there.
The TJ to YJ comparison is a little farfetched. The pinion is higher on the Yj and the TJ came stock with a double cardan shaft that was balanced from the factory. It is really cheap to have the Yj shaft balanced (locally at least) it will not react the same as the TJ shaft. The main problem with the Yj shaft is the slip yoke wearing out. Any vibrations in the shaft will expedite the need for a new pinion seal. I just had a new seal installed with my gears in 2011 so with a constantly turning stock driveshaft I will let you know if my seal goes out prematurely. You can always pull a vibrating shaft.

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post #42 of 95 Old 09-28-2013, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
Rproject
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Gentlemen,

THANK YOU for all the comments and replies. After much research, this thread, several conversations with friends who have YEARS more experience than I do, and a volley of emails with Bill Cole from Aussie, I've decided that the Wrangler will be having lunch down under in the near future.

1996 White ZJ
1987 Maroon YJ (sideways build)
1996 Forest Green XJ

The "sideways" build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/r...hread-2164793/
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post #43 of 95 Old 09-28-2013, 08:01 AM
linusb
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1994 YJ Wrangler, 4.0, AX15, NP231, 35x12.50x15 BFG KM2s, 4" RC lift, 1" lift Boom Shackles, 1" BL, 4.10 gears, 8.8 LSD in rear and D30 Aussie Locker in front, on-board air conversion, Ramsey RE8000 winch.
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post #44 of 95 Old 09-28-2013, 08:34 AM
RockWoRM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rproject View Post
I guess I'm down to Spartan versus Aussie. Let the showdown begin.
No show down needed. But I can give you facts. I seem to be the lone voice on this board when it comes to lunchboxes. I have the powertrax No-slip lunchbox. IMHO, it is the best lunchbox out there. Of course that is just my opinion. However, I have been beating on it for almost 10 years!!! I have also inspected it and with all the hard core wheeling I do (Rubicon, ect.) and it shows practically no wear. That is fact. Of course anything can break... but I'd say that is a purdy good track record. I suppose most guys don't look at the Powertrax b/c of the cost. They are about a hundred more than the others. And I'm not saying the others are bad. But as they say, you get what you pay for.
Having said all that. I'd rather have a selectable up front b/c of the type of rock crawling I do. But for most, the lunchbox is just fine.



WRM

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post #45 of 95 Old 09-28-2013, 09:06 AM
squarelite
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman
The TJ to YJ comparison is a little farfetched. The pinion is higher on the Yj and the TJ came stock with a double cardan shaft that was balanced from the factory. It is really cheap to have the Yj shaft balanced (locally at least) it will not react the same as the TJ shaft. The main problem with the Yj shaft is the slip yoke wearing out. Any vibrations in the shaft will expedite the need for a new pinion seal. I just had a new seal installed with my gears in 2011 so with a constantly turning stock driveshaft I will let you know if my seal goes out prematurely. You can always pull a vibrating shaft.
So I say it needs to be balanced which is an easy job. Then you say it will have problems unless it is balanced which is a really easy job???????????
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