[Shags78]

I finally decided to convert my Sanden A/C compressor into an air compressor. I've researched all the threads and write-ups on here and elsewhere, but still haven't found the answer I'm looking for. My compressor is a 709T and looks different to others I've seen.

On the suction side I have a line that comes out and goes to the firewall. On the discharge side I have a line that comes out and goes to my radiator. From there a line comes out and goes to the condenser?

My question is can I use the hard lines that are coming from the compressor and adapt them to work with my fittings for the manifold and intake side? I figured if I used them the air would cool down more before it got to my air manifold. My other question has to do with the lines going to the radiator and what to do with them?

I have everything else I need for this setup and ready to install, I just don't want to go messing up lines I don't need to. Thanks for any help provided.

T

Edit-1st pic-compressor outputs, left side suction, right side discharge, right line goes to radiator
Edit-2nd pic-bottom straight line goes to radiator, angled line on top goes to condenser?
Edit-3rd pic-right line from radiator into condenser, left line goes to firewall

[builder]

I have the same compressor but I got mine from a junk yard. I only got about 4" of hard line with my compressor and it is really hard to find fittings. I gave up and ran a 1/4" tap into the hard lines. You have to be carefull not to strip it but mine is holding up just fine. Sorry I cant help you anymore than that. Good Luck.

[kkchevy3]

the threads on the compressor themselves are very hard to find something to match up to. I would keep the hard lines and use them. I made a coil of copper tubing to cool everything down. Been working great for 2 months. You can get rid of everything else. The only things you need are the compressor and the fittings and lines your going to use to convert over to a standard thread size.

[YJames90]

I went to the hardware store and picked through the plumbing section. Found a reducer that threaded onto the compresor on one side and braided line on the other.
The braids cool down the hot air perfectly.
I changed it a bit since the picture was taken. Now the braids go all the way to the psi switch. I removed that one foot of orange hose, it was starting to melt

[Shags78]

Thanks for the help guys. Anyone know what I can do about the lines that seem to go to my radiator? I'm clear on what I'm going to with the lines from the compressor. I just don't want to cut those lines and end up having a leak coming from the radiator.

[Shags78]

Anyone else have any ideas what to do with the above mentioned A/C lines?

[Burnerman]

The a/c lines don't go to the radiator. They go to the a/c condesnor in front of the radiator. 2 separate parts.

[Shags78]

Originally Posted by Burnerman

The a/c lines don't go to the radiator. They go to the a/c condesnor in front of the radiator. 2 separate parts.

So it would be safe to remove that condenser when I remove everything else? What is the official part name in my 3rd pic? Don't know why I referred to that as the condenser.

[YJames90]

Originally Posted by Shags78

So it would be safe to remove that condenser when I remove everything else? What is the official part name in my 3rd pic? Don't know why I referred to that as the condenser.

Not sure of its name but you can remove the condensor.
Heres my hose routing
INTAKE---- AIR FILTER to INLINE OILER to add oil to lube the compressor. On a normal set up the freon lubes the pump.
Now I actually find it easier to just pop off the air filter and squirt some oil in as the intake is pulling. THe inline oiler has a small screw that you have to remove to get the oil in. It does not regulate the amount of oil thats released. It all gets sucked in . Next I deceided to use the existing intake line.
This does not have to meet ant special requirements and it dosent get hot.

OUTAKE---PLUMBING REDUCER Make sure you use teflon tape on all screwed together joints to get a good seal. BRAIDED AIR LINE. I am useing a 3 foot section to cool things off before it hits the PSI SWITCH . From there it goes to a AIR/OIL SEPERATOR so oil dosent go into the tank.. The hose runs to the back of the Jeep to a 2.5 GALLON TANK . On the tank I have a PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE set to 150 ? so the tank dosent rupture if the psi switch malfunctions and the tank continues to fill. TRUST ME IT WORKS AND ITS LOUD WHEN THE VALVE RELEASES!!!!

The hose is then routed to under the hood where I have a quick disconnect for air tools

Lots of parts, The cost adds up fast


Intake filter, psi switch and oil seperator

In dash compressor on/off switch and psi guage. I had a guage on the tank but its really not needed

My original pressure regulator. I did not like how this one worked


I hope this helps

[Shags78]

Thanks James, that clears a few things up. I think I'm just going to tap into those factory hard lines and run from there. I have everything else I need for the project. I built the manifold with pressure switch, pop-off valve, quick connect, pressure gauge and check valve a week ago. Got my air filter and that same Craftsman inline oiler you did. Just wanted to make sure it was ok to remove the condenser in front of the radiator. There should be no fluids in there right?

Originally Posted by jamesx2

Not sure of its name but you can remove the condensor.
Heres my hose routing
INTAKE---- AIR FILTER to INLINE OILER to add oil to lube the compressor. On a normal set up the freon lubes the pump.
Now I actually find it easier to just pop off the air filter and squirt some oil in as the intake is pulling. THe inline oiler has a small screw that you have to remove to get the oil in. It does not regulate the amount of oil thats released. It all gets sucked in . Next I deceided to use the existing intake line.
This does not have to meet ant special requirements and it dosent get hot.

OUTAKE---PLUMBING REDUCER Make sure you use teflon tape on all screwed together joints to get a good seal. BRAIDED AIR LINE. I am useing a 3 foot section to cool things off before it hits the PSI SWITCH . From there it goes to a AIR/OIL SEPERATOR so oil dosent go into the tank.. The hose runs to the back of the Jeep to a 2.5 GALLON TANK . On the tank I have a PRESSURE RELEASE VALVE set to 150 ? so the tank dosent rupture if the psi switch malfunctions and the tank continues to fill. TRUST ME IT WORKS AND ITS LOUD WHEN THE VALVE RELEASES!!!!

The hose is then routed to under the hood where I have a quick disconnect for air tools

Lots of parts, The cost adds up fast


Intake filter, psi switch and oil seperator

In dash compressor on/off switch and psi guage. I had a guage on the tank but its really not needed

My original pressure regulator. I did not like how this one worked


I hope this helps

[titoheadfaceman]

that thing in the 3rd picture is the receiver/drier. All it does it remove moisture from the refrigerant and store some of the oil in the system. Basically, for what you are doing, get rid of it. You will need a completly different in line drier to seperate the moisture from the compressed air.

[kkchevy3]

anyone have problems with their oiler in the intake side not oiling? My oil level hasnt moved. Im thinking i need some sort that is ment for suction. not pressure

[builder]

kkchevy3 mine oils pretty well you can tell buy how much the oil seperator is catching. Do you have a air filter on the intake?

[kkchevy3]

yes. But the level in the oiler hasnt changed so i know its not working.

[Shags78]

Ok, I have everything ran and hooked up except for the electrical. I'm an idiot when it comes to this and I haven't really seen a write-up that went into detail as far as the pressure switch goes. I have a Pumptrol "Square D" switch with four terminals.

From left to right they are L1 T1 T2 L2-first pic

My switch for the dash is the second pic.

Where do I hook up the one wire from the compressor and how would I go about wiring these switches?

Thanks for any help provided.

T