Sanden 709 OBA write up. - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 28 Old 01-14-2012, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
klayton
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Sanden 709 OBA write up.

i have started to piece together my OBA for my 93 yj.
i visited the junkyard today and grabbed 2 sanden 709 compressors. they bolt right to the present bracket in your yj. the 709 that will bolt right in can be found in a 91-95 xj. the pre-91 compressors have horizontal mount and you need the vertical mount found in the 91-95 xj.

below are some pictures i took.

the bracket that the compressor bolts to.


compressor mounted.


idler pulley from the junk yard, longer idler pulley bolt, and new longer belt.


Pulley and belt installed and tight.


the clutch works, verified by hooking up to the battery and listening for "click". i will be gathering the fittings, gauge, pressure switch, lines, and tank over the next few weeks!!!

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post #2 of 28 Old 01-14-2012, 11:59 PM
91BoD
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I started doing the same. I went the grease method which was recommended by a member of an S10 forum who used it to air up his airbags every day for 3 years before it failed. So far it works, but is acting like a grease gun. Possibly just from over greasing. Once I am done tweaking and am confident in the system I will post a write up.


forumrunner_20120114_215430.jpg


When using either oil or grease you should plug this "oval" hole located far left.
forumrunner_20120114_215504.jpg


And while you are plugging that hole open up the discharge port in the head for better flow.
forumrunner_20120114_215535.jpg
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post #3 of 28 Old 01-15-2012, 12:16 AM
johnny-walker81
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why the extra pully?
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post #4 of 28 Old 01-15-2012, 01:49 AM
91BoD
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So the belt still makes sufficient contact with the alternator.
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post #5 of 28 Old 01-18-2012, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
klayton
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picked up some fittings, intake filter, oil/water serperator, and some 3/8 line so i will start piceing things together tonight. hoping to at least get suction side mounted tonight. fittings are the most expensive part!
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post #6 of 28 Old 01-18-2012, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
klayton
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Sorry if the pics are too big!

The parts i picked up.


The oiler


everything mounted and plumbed for the time being.






im plan to pick up the pressure switch, a gauge and a quick connect this week/weekend then start looking for a tank!

So far i an only in about $130 dollars. Hoping to finish up under $200!!!
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post #7 of 28 Old 01-18-2012, 10:24 PM
johnny-walker81
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where did you get the oiler from. never used one before just fill with oil and refill when full?
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post #8 of 28 Old 01-18-2012, 10:45 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Since you said you plan on running a tank, you may want to run the air to the tank first and then back to your filter, pressure switch ect.
The air comming out of the compressor will get really hot and will take its toll on all of the parts.
You may also want to run a metal line coming out of the compressor to help cool the air before it hits the air hose.
Do you plan on using a check valve? The compressor will leak the air out of the system with out one.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #9 of 28 Old 01-18-2012, 11:16 PM Thread Starter
klayton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnny-walker81 View Post
where did you get the oiler from. never used one before just fill with oil and refill when full?
Sears $9.99 yeah its a PITA to fill with oil

Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
Since you said you plan on running a tank, you may want to run the air to the tank first and then back to your filter, pressure switch ect.
The air comming out of the compressor will get really hot and will take its toll on all of the parts.
You may also want to run a metal line coming out of the compressor to help cool the air before it hits the air hose.
Do you plan on using a check valve? The compressor will leak the air out of the system with out one.
i will run a check valve right after the filter then into the gauge, pressure switch, quick disco then there will be a line running to the tank with a pressure safety switch on one of the tank ports. running the air to the tank first defeats the purpose of the filter. the filter will be the first thing the air hits leaving the compressor so it can filter out any oil. if i ran to the tank first then the filter, pressure switch, etc all the oil would settle in the tank.

i thought about the metal line out of the compressor but couldn't locate one. Any idea where to get one?
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post #10 of 28 Old 01-18-2012, 11:33 PM
TSEJEEPERS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klayton View Post
Sears $9.99 yeah its a PITA to fill with oil



i will run a check valve right after the filter then into the gauge, pressure switch, quick disco then there will be a line running to the tank with a pressure safety switch on one of the tank ports. running the air to the tank first defeats the purpose of the filter. the filter will be the first thing the air hits leaving the compressor so it can filter out any oil. if i ran to the tank first then the filter, pressure switch, etc all the oil would settle in the tank.

i thought about the metal line out of the compressor but couldn't locate one. Any idea where to get one?
Having the oil go into the tank will not hurt anything. You still need a filter to get the water out.
These compressors get really hot, if you run it straight into your filter you will melt it.
You already have the compressor mounted, start it up and run it for 10 min. Put you hand on it after 10 min. you will be surprised how hot it is.
Copper tubing works well for the metal line.
Sorry not ditching on your write up, just giving you some pointers from experience.

93 YJ SOA 2" springs front, XJ springs rear w/main leaf added, High pinon 9 inch rear detroit locker front Dana 44 ARB 4.56 Gears, 36 inch Irok tires too much to list.
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post #11 of 28 Old 01-19-2012, 07:25 AM Thread Starter
klayton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TSEJEEPERS View Post
Having the oil go into the tank will not hurt anything. You still need a filter to get the water out.
These compressors get really hot, if you run it straight into your filter you will melt it.
You already have the compressor mounted, start it up and run it for 10 min. Put you hand on it after 10 min. you will be surprised how hot it is.
Copper tubing works well for the metal line.
Sorry not ditching on your write up, just giving you some pointers from experience.
i didnt take it as bashing me haha ill look into the metal line more. thanks
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post #12 of 28 Old 01-19-2012, 08:58 AM
bpr
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I have a couple of questions. What size are the fittings coming off the compressor? Once the compressor is bolted to the stock mounting bracket is the compressor oil fill plug on top or on the side? Couldnt tell from pics. Thx.
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post #13 of 28 Old 01-19-2012, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
klayton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpr View Post
I have a couple of questions. What size are the fittings coming off the compressor? Once the compressor is bolted to the stock mounting bracket is the compressor oil fill plug on top or on the side? Couldnt tell from pics. Thx.
i think the ports were a 3/4.

mine does not have an oil port on the side or top. not all sandens have the oil port your looking for.
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post #14 of 28 Old 01-19-2012, 03:55 PM
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Copper tube is a good replacement for the rubber hose you are using. That can get too hot and melt. My hose melted(on the test run, infact).
I now use copper tube from the compressor to the storage tank and from the tank to the air distribution manifold.
Get a tank with a drain as the oil will accumulate in the storage tank for the most part, unless you get a separator.
Also you can help the temps a little by getting your input air from NOT under the hood. My intake is in the grill under the headlight.
I also put on a high pressure blow off valve just incase of ...an issue. Good cheap insurance.
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post #15 of 28 Old 01-19-2012, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
klayton
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how did you bend that copper tubing?
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