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Unread 02-15-2010, 01:18 AM   #1
tirogers
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Rust Repair!~ Bad Idea? Fiberglass Repair

I have a fist size whole that ate the letter P in Jeep in front on the door in the common spot, what are your thoughts about using fiberglass mat to repair it as opposed to straight "bondo" the rust has eaten through the bottom of the rocker up to the P in jeep if that makes sense.(its more of a chunk missing then a hole) Is fiberglass mat a bad idea? your thoughts? I know i should weld it but dont have access to a welder just yet. I read the mat is better then cloth b/c you can sand it and the texture will not show.

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Unread 02-15-2010, 02:13 AM   #2
timatoe
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Obviously steel is the preferred method, but since that's not an option,,,,,, I'd use fiberglass mat way before I'd try to fill and area that big with bondo.
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Unread 02-15-2010, 02:28 AM   #3
little_Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timatoe View Post
Obviously steel is the preferred method, but since that's not an option,,,,,, I'd use fiberglass mat way before I'd try to fill and area that big with bondo.
I agree............
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Unread 02-15-2010, 02:32 AM   #4
tirogers
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thanks guys, any one have any hints? should a kit from the local auto parts store work just fine?
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Unread 02-15-2010, 03:09 AM   #5
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That would probably be fine. I'd suggest going to a local paint supply place, that sells automotive type paints and what not, typically the people working the auto paint counter really know their stuff and can offer all types of helpful info.
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Unread 02-15-2010, 07:09 AM   #6
95Turtle
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If you have an angle grinder or something, try to remove all the rust you can around the hole before you put the fiberglass on. It will last a lot longer if you can get most of the rust out.
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Unread 02-15-2010, 07:22 AM   #7
mudshark333
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Here's another "hackjob" tip that actually has it's uses in a pinch. If you have any significant holes or voids to fill, especially in a difficult access area, like an inside corner, etc., you can stuff some "Pink Panther" type fiberglass insulation soaked in resin to make a bulletproof patch. It's an old trick used by less than respectable used car dealers. It goes hand in hand with the 'ol "tranny fluid paint job". I wouldn't use it on a concourse resto, but it has it's place if you're in a bind on a low budjet. It provides serious "backbone" and structural strength way beyond the capabilities of Bondo.
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Unread 02-15-2010, 08:06 AM   #8
ZeroGravity
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I used fiberglass to patch up the same hole on mine. It has worked well over the past year and a half but I have a welder so I'll probably burn some steel in this summer.

Make sure to remove any rust you can find with wire wheel or grinding wheel. I suggest cleaning the metal a good 3" around where you want to fiberglass so you have enough hold.

I also suggest taking a screwdriver and stabbing in some spots above where that rust hole has formed. It is very common for rust to for between the body support and the tub itself, even above where it has come all the way through.

I've found the easiest way to get the matt soaked with resin is to get a cardboard box (larger than the matt patches) and tape wax paper to it so it's completely covered. When you're ready to apply the patch lay it flat on the wax paper/box, mix up your resin and saturate the mat while it's on the wax paper box. The resin doesn't stick to the wax paper so when you're ready to move the patch to the Jeep you will be able to easily lift it off your wax paper box.

Use acetone or white vinegar to clean up your hands/tools before it's hardened.
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Unread 02-15-2010, 09:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringwood View Post
I used fiberglass to patch up the same hole on mine. It has worked well over the past year and a half but I have a welder so I'll probably burn some steel in this summer.

Make sure to remove any rust you can find with wire wheel or grinding wheel. I suggest cleaning the metal a good 3" around where you want to fiberglass so you have enough hold.

I also suggest taking a screwdriver and stabbing in some spots above where that rust hole has formed. It is very common for rust to for between the body support and the tub itself, even above where it has come all the way through.

I've found the easiest way to get the matt soaked with resin is to get a cardboard box (larger than the matt patches) and tape wax paper to it so it's completely covered. When you're ready to apply the patch lay it flat on the wax paper/box, mix up your resin and saturate the mat while it's on the wax paper box. The resin doesn't stick to the wax paper so when you're ready to move the patch to the Jeep you will be able to easily lift it off your wax paper box.

Use acetone or white vinegar to clean up your hands/tools before it's hardened.

Do it the way the boat guys do it!


1. Cover the hole from the outside with duct tape or shrink tape (shrink tape works better)

2. lay a chunck of cardboard over the tape on the outside and tape it up so you have somthing to push against.


3. cut a pece of mat with about 5" of overlap all the way around the hole and apply it to the duct tape on the inside


4. soak mat with resin using a paint brush, the key to good glass work is to be certain you have worked the resin all the way into the glass. leaving dry pockets will make it weak.

5. let kick

6. Remover tape and cardboard

7. From the outside if there are any big voids (shouldnt be) fiberglass
(or shreded mat) and resin mixed in a dixie cup will work great.

8. sand prime and paint.


I worked at a marina for a few summers as a mechanic, this is how the glass guys fixed larger holes in boats. I have used this method many times to fix holes/dents in belly pans on older snowmobiles that have curved steel pans
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Unread 02-15-2010, 09:21 AM   #10
jbolty
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Fiberglass can do a nice patch job but it does not add any strength and if you wheel hard it will eventually crack and peel. If you think you might be able to weld it at some time in the future I would screw or rivet a patch for now.

either way clean out all the old rust and use a rust converter spray or phosphoric acid before paint it.
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Unread 02-15-2010, 09:26 AM   #11
tirogers
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thanks guys, those are some great tips, i cant decide what to do about the missing P in Jeep, let it read Jee or cut it off entirely and patch it, what do you guys think? Maybe leave the Jee and get new decals? Give her a little character if you would.

Any one know what the lowest temp fiberglass can be used in? I'm way up here in the frigid north and after I uncovered this rust I don't want to let the SALT eat her all!

If down the road I do decide to correctly fix my heap how hard is it going to be to remove the fiberglass?

By the way, the pillar inside the jeep behind where it it rusted out is also partially rusted....as long as I cut out all the cancer/rust it should be ok right? or do I need to reinforce it someway?
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Unread 02-15-2010, 10:10 AM   #12
tirogers
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i assume you have experienced it cracking? How long did it take w/ "hard wheeling" to crack?

And also "does not add strength"........ does not add as much strength as metal welded in but it has more strength then bondo. Or am i wrong?


Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Fiberglass can do a nice patch job but it does not add any strength and if you wheel hard it will eventually crack and peel. If you think you might be able to weld it at some time in the future I would screw or rivet a patch for now.

either way clean out all the old rust and use a rust converter spray or phosphoric acid before paint it.
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Unread 02-15-2010, 10:42 AM   #13
95Turtle
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If there is a rust hole in that pillar, the best thing to do would be to at least weld a patch over it. The rusted part should really be cut out and a new section of pillar put in, at least for a few inches around the bad spot. But since you don't have a welder, try to clean it up as best you can , put some rust converter on the pillar, do your glass work and when you get the chance to weld open it back up and patch the pillar.
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Unread 02-16-2010, 03:03 PM   #14
YYJ87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbolty View Post
Fiberglass can do a nice patch job but it does not add any strength and if you wheel hard it will eventually crack and peel. If you think you might be able to weld it at some time in the future I would screw or rivet a patch for now.

either way clean out all the old rust and use a rust converter spray or phosphoric acid before paint it.


While in the boat buisness i spent a lot of time around people doing glass work and did a little myself. What your describing sounds like half assed glass work.

-If you use cloth instead of mat, it will crack easly.

-If you brush resin on instead of working it into the mat with the tip of the brush there will be air pockets making thee patch weak.

-If you use the "Glass in a can" from the hardware that requires no hardener it will be weak because it isnt real resin in the can.

-If you dont mix well it will be weak!

-If you only apply on layer of mat and resin instead of 2-3 i may crack if it takes a good hit.


Fiberglass mat with resin added is STRONG! chopper gun style fiberglass tends to be alot weaker and that is the method used to make glass tubs and just about anything molded fiberglass.

Most boats under 20' have a glass hull that is 5/16"-1/4" thick and thats the chopper glass, not the good stuff!



I would bet the sheet metal crinkles a bit before the glass goes IF he does this correctly.


YYJ
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Unread 02-16-2010, 03:43 PM   #15
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I had a Ford Ranger with a few spots on the floor board that was rusted. Since we deal in fiberglass and had resin and stuff, I decided to go with it. I cleaned all the rust. Use the rust converter chemical on the edges, clean / sand / clean the whole floor board, duct tape the holes, than laid up about 3 layers of mat. After it cured, I use sheet metal screws to give a a mechanic bond. So I have a chemical and mechanical bond. Been there for 8 years so far.

Like above, put some plastic on the cardboard, tape it to the outside of the hole, wet out 3 layers of glass on another piece of cardboard, work out all the air bubbles, lay it on the hole, flatten it out while working the air bubbles out. Let cure. Remove cardboard, sand and bonddo the outside.
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