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Unread 05-06-2007, 04:36 PM   #1
ShaneS
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1991 YJ Wrangler 
 
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Rust on Rear frame - 94 YJ

Alright everyone - got a newbie here - my wife has wanted and dreamed of an older Jeep for years and we have finally found the one - however I need some advice on repair and cost estimates for the following BEFORE i can purchase:

1994 YJ - 4.0 6 Cyl. - great shape
has rust (what i would say is medium to severe) on both rear peices of the frame where the bumper and the suspension all come together - about 6-9 in. from the bumper heading back to the front (before the major bend in the wheel axel area) and its width at least on one side is at least the width of the frame -

WHAT DO I DO? I have heard that this is a common occurence (Jeep is from Ohio...and I am in Kentucky) and that they can cut out what is rusted and weld in either old frame peices or manufactured peices for that problem - is this the case?

Any help would be great - is this a big deal and if so- what do you think it would cost to fix the job.

Thanks

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Unread 05-06-2007, 04:42 PM   #2
toates89
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i would pass on it unless its free, rust is the one thing you dont want to fight as you repair that one spot your will come to relize that the entire inside of the frame is starting to rot, then you lift the rugs and realize the is no floors. etc
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Unread 05-06-2007, 04:46 PM   #3
ShaneS
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yea, I thought the same thing - but there is NO RUST anywhere in the inside of the jeep - under front and rear floor mats - all clean, not even a HINT of rust - it is mostly in that rear part of the frame -
What do you think? Would you still stay far far away from it?
Thanks for the response
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Unread 05-06-2007, 05:07 PM   #4
jazzplr
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You're unlikely to find rust on the tub of a 94 or newer since they started galvanizing them in 94.
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Unread 05-06-2007, 05:35 PM   #5
ShaneS
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still need some info/help

regarding the tub and the rest - thanks for the info - but what would you all suggest regarding the nature of the rust on the rear of the frame? Is this something that you all have seen fixed successfully? is it relatively inexpensive?

Thanks
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Unread 05-06-2007, 05:36 PM   #6
theboxman71
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i got a 94 and the tub was WAYYY rusty.....if i had the time back, i would get one with a good frame.......check my thread, you'll see why!!!good luck
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Unread 05-06-2007, 05:38 PM   #7
theboxman71
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http://www.autorust.com/k_42.html
heres a piece u can buy and weld in....
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Unread 05-06-2007, 05:42 PM   #8
ShaneS
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theboxman

Good luck with all that - I agree the color is beautiful - the one I am working with - seriously is in no way even close to that! No rust anywhere...except for that rear frame and bumper area - thanks for the link to the parts of the frame - I may look into that -
you must think it worth the time and effort to go with a strong 4.0, good trans and overall good YJ - that is where I am - I am just new to the whole process and before I buy I wanted to some good advice - thanks

Quick question - how do you post pics in the body of your post?
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Unread 05-06-2007, 05:47 PM   #9
Sahara88
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You need to be a member for 30 days or more. something like that. Or you can upgrade your membership
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Unread 05-06-2007, 06:06 PM   #10
leftlanetruckin
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i have repaired the rear of yj frames by cutting all the rot out, then welding 1/8" plate all around the rear of the frame rails, then using a hole saw to cut out for the shackle bushings...
this method is assuming that the whole section isnt scrap, as you will need something to weld to! another option is to weld on 2 new rear frame rails, seen that done with great success too.
i have an old frame that i repaired (snapped it at the front, by the steering box...the repairs held fine, go figure) that i could cut off the rear sections for you if you go that route.
pm me if yer interested.
as far as buying the jeep goes, its gotta be your call and no one elses. without knowing how much it is, its hard to say if its good value or not... i ended up replacing the whole frame on mine when i put the chevy motor in there. you can get a good rust free frame for @300-400 in the midwest.

martin
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2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/

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Unread 05-06-2007, 06:33 PM   #11
sentinal02
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here's what you're getting yourself into

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...t=frame+repair

if you think you can accomplish this, or are willing to pay someone to do it for you, then by all means, go for the jeep. the only other option is to get a new, good frame and transfer everything over. pretty much just as much work, if not more than repairing the rust, just without the welding.
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Unread 05-06-2007, 06:35 PM   #12
ShaneS
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leftlanetrucking

Now that is some good information - thanks -
The YJ that I am looking at is in great shape - I know the past two previous owners and have people who know people who can do the welding - drove it around today - and was hooked - and that was with the top still on -

I will let you know about needing the rear sections - where are you and how much do you want for them? The guy I know may be able to make-shift what I need -

Thanks again for the info - hope to be cruising soon
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Unread 05-06-2007, 06:38 PM   #13
ShaneS
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sentinal02

Well well - those pictures look familar - but what you have done looks alot like what I am about to do - are you using those plates on both sides of the frame?
Thanks for the pics- I will send some of my own once I am cleared-
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Unread 05-06-2007, 06:40 PM   #14
leftlanetruckin
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no problem, i'm in jefferson city,mo.
if you can make it up my way, i'd do the repair for ye, fer cheap.
i havent a clue on the weight of the sections, so couldnt say a price fer sure....
the rear isnt too bad to repair, others on here have had a nightmare repair job, and i wouldnt go that route. but if its just the rear frame sections, it isnt bad at all.
btw, when you get it fixed, make sure you drill a 1/2" hole at the lowest point, on the bottom for the frame rail. that will stop it happening again...(bad design, water can get it, cant get out....drilling the hole lets the water out before it does the damage)

martin
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1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee....
2003 Range Rover HSE, 4.4 Quad Cam.
1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
2000 4.7 4WD WJ with a rebuilt motor.
4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ)....
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324622

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Minutes to gain the knowledge from the internet, and quote it just as freely.
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Unread 05-06-2007, 06:47 PM   #15
sentinal02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShaneS
Well well - those pictures look familar - but what you have done looks alot like what I am about to do - are you using those plates on both sides of the frame?
Thanks for the pics- I will send some of my own once I am cleared-
the fish plates or the whole repair? the plates are on both sides of the frame rail, but thankfully only the pass side of the frame required fixing (in that spot at least).
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RIP: '88 YJ 2.5L Ax-5 NP231
Posi-Loked. Herculined. Optima yellow top. 1" Shackle, 2" BDS. Cragar 397's Aussie front.

92 YJ 4.0L Ax-15 231
5" springs, 1" shackle 31's or 35's depending on my mood
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