About 3 years ago we had a new windshield put in. Our auto-body man (does all our auto-body work, works for himself) said you have to get rid of the rust at the same time to prevent leaking (or something like that, not sure). Although the paint wasn't part of the windshield insurance, he said he can't guarantee the rust wont come back... so we paid for him to paint it. Well, 3 years later it's back, just tough little bubbles, nothing major. I know it's going to get worse.
I am going to ask the auto-body man how much it would cost, but how much do you guys think taking out the window, getting a new windshield frame + prime, paint, and putting the window back would cost...?
Silver Metallic finish with black dual tops - Dana 44 Rear 2.25" Suspension Lift with Old Man Emu Shocks Performance Accessories 1" Body Lift Daystar 1" Motor Mount Lift Spidertrax 1.25" Wheel Spacers - 32"x11.5" MT/R Tires
I'm going to have to do the same thing to mine.I know you can get the frame for around $140 but after that I don't know what it would cost,it shouldn't be to much for labor and materials as it's not that big of a job.In the Quadratec catalog it says it comes primed so it shouldn't take too much prep before painting.
I have the same problem on my 92. I bought the frame through 4WD Hardware http://www.4wd.com for $140, cowl seal for $31 (old one was pretty beat) and windshield seal for $22. Then I went and found the right paint to match the low-gloss moss green color - $55 for a quart of paint, the hardener and thinner. Before I paint it, I have to wipe it down with the thinner (removes oils/waxes from factory and shipping), scuff it with a scotch-brite pad (to remove sheen from primer and allow the topcoat to cling) and wipe it with the thinner again (removes all the dust particles. I also ran a bead of latex caulk down the side where the two parts of the windshield frame are spotwelded together. Then I can mix the paint, spray it and it'll be ready to have the $200-$300 windshield replaced. I've heard horror stories about the bolts for the hinges and for the plates inside the cab, but I'll burn that bridge when I get there. HTH.
'92 Sahara - Only mod is 30" tires....unless you count the cracked windshield!
this is pretty common. been meaning to write the book, '1001 jeep tricks' number 392 would be to remove the little metal widget that covers the seam in the rubber. its usually right in the center. this is where the rust always starts. mine got soo bad that the rust was growing and pushing on the glass and you could see the glass deviate from flat.
i replaced my frame with a fiberglass one. i know i know they dont make one for a yj. the only reason they dont is because the roll bar attaches to the windshield frame. i used to do alot of fiberglass work so i simply glassed in a few threaded incerts on a frame made for a cj. i then made a rubber gasket to go between the metal and fiberglass.
the main problem i ran into was the accuracy of the fiberglass reproduction was absolutely horrible. not only did it take hours of finish work but the two halves didnt line up properly. this caused an inconsistend flange for the glass to mount to. the glass shop warned me upon inspection. i had them do it anyway and it came out ok but the rubber isnt perfectly seated. the threaded inscerts for the main brakets didnt quite line up. i think this is more a factor of the inaccuracy of the product than anything else. all-in-all i wouldnt do it again if i could do it over.
Painting: i had the frame painted at a shop. it was pricy and when i got a replacement hood i decided to paint it myself. i got the chepest spraygun from home depot. its like a $30.ish cambelhousefield. to my surprise it worked great with a large spray pattern.
i had the same thing on both of the bottom corners of my frame, so i took out the windshield gasket, got in there with a dremel, grinded all the rust out (it wasnt to bad) then filled it in with body filler, sanded it, painted it, yadda yadda, hasnt given me problems since
I am removing my stock windshiel harware when I replce them and I am going to dremel all the old paint and rist off. Prime it, treat it with a rust inhibator and then repaont with some touch up before I cover most of it up with the hardware, Hopefully should look nice.
I just bought a replacement frame from 4wd and just brought it to work and powder coated it, should last another 100 million years. If you have a connection its the ONLY thing to use on parts like that. I powder coated everything except the frame and thats next on the list when the jeep gets put away for the winter